Paid for them. https://www.eclipson-airplanes.com/model-v
They do have a free version of the model-T on Thingiverse that doesn't include the landing gear. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3302937
Cheers!
LB
I'm a Shark!
- Thread starter buzzbomb
- Start date
They do have a free version of the model-T on Thingiverse that doesn't include the landing gear. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3302937
Cheers!
LB
buzzbomb
I know nothing!
I tried printing with the supplied gcode, and this is what I got:
Not really any different. Something with my setup isn't working with the supplied code or profile, so I decided to modify it a bit.
I loaded up their profile and went to work, trying to figure out why I can print everything I've tried, except this darn fuselage!
"Compensate Wall Overlaps" was turned off. I turned that back on.
"Fill Gaps Between Walls" was off. I turned that back on.
I changed the "Z-Seam Alignment" to "Random" since you can see in the picture that I've a nearly solid wall of stringing coming from the seam.
The "Flow" was set to 102%. I changed it to 100%.
"Retraction Distance" was at .8mm. I changed that to 2mm.
"Print Speed" was set to 40, but the "Inner Wall Speed" was set to 60. I made it 40.
Then I exported the profile, so I can come back and tweak it, if need be. I've got a few hours yet before I can try it out. Does anyone have any suggestions for the Shark Fuselage profile, that I may have missed? Or something I've changed that I really shouldn't have?
I'm also considering the possibility that my cooling isn't sufficient, or my PLA may be good for everything except this.
Not really any different. Something with my setup isn't working with the supplied code or profile, so I decided to modify it a bit.
I loaded up their profile and went to work, trying to figure out why I can print everything I've tried, except this darn fuselage!
"Compensate Wall Overlaps" was turned off. I turned that back on.
"Fill Gaps Between Walls" was off. I turned that back on.
I changed the "Z-Seam Alignment" to "Random" since you can see in the picture that I've a nearly solid wall of stringing coming from the seam.
The "Flow" was set to 102%. I changed it to 100%.
"Retraction Distance" was at .8mm. I changed that to 2mm.
"Print Speed" was set to 40, but the "Inner Wall Speed" was set to 60. I made it 40.
Then I exported the profile, so I can come back and tweak it, if need be. I've got a few hours yet before I can try it out. Does anyone have any suggestions for the Shark Fuselage profile, that I may have missed? Or something I've changed that I really shouldn't have?
I'm also considering the possibility that my cooling isn't sufficient, or my PLA may be good for everything except this.
buzzbomb
I know nothing!
Playing with the settings I've mentioned, this is my final gnome print for the evening:
Holy cow, that's horrible! What the heck happened? Retraction distance happened. That's a 2mm retraction, vs. the 6.5 from the default profile. So I changed the retraction in my Shark Fuselage profile to be 6.5, and it's printing now. Pictures when appropriate.
Holy cow, that's horrible! What the heck happened? Retraction distance happened.
That's a 2mm retraction, vs. the 6.5 from the default profile. So I changed the retraction in my Shark Fuselage profile to be 6.5, and it's printing now. Pictures when appropriate.
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quorneng
Master member
buzzbomb
It is quite possible to simply cut off the stringing on external shapes but it is a perennial problem with complex prints.
CURA has a "spirolize" feature.
This only prints the outer surface but it does so without stopping the print flow from begging to end. On the rare occasions where you want to print say a single wall cylinder the end result is amazing and very hypnotic to watch.
It is quite possible to simply cut off the stringing on external shapes but it is a perennial problem with complex prints.
CURA has a "spirolize" feature.
This only prints the outer surface but it does so without stopping the print flow from begging to end. On the rare occasions where you want to print say a single wall cylinder the end result is amazing and very hypnotic to watch.
buzzbomb
I know nothing!
That's pretty cool!
Wildthing
Legendary member
I did a somewhat fancy vase using it and it turned out great but with it turned on no inner structure (if any) would be in the G-code.
Wildthing
Legendary member
So what did you change ?
Dunno if I should, but that has never stopped me in the past. I have all my EMV parts printed, so just might have to take a stab at this now. Hopefully the tweaked profiles I have will translate directly to this build. The final hurdle I had with printing the Model-V was lack of adequate layer cooling on either of my printers for printing the overhanging wingtips. Ended up modding my MonoPrice Mini with a larger fan and ring layer cooler to knock that build out of the park.
Looks like most of the print problems I'm seeing in this thread are related to stringing. There are several techniques to overcome that, and what worked for me using Simplify3D was increasing retraction speed, lowering extruder temperature, optimizing start position for fastest printing speed, and increasing x/y movement speed (movements when not depositing material). I'm not sure how those settings translate to other slicers though.
Cheers!
LitterBug
Looks like most of the print problems I'm seeing in this thread are related to stringing. There are several techniques to overcome that, and what worked for me using Simplify3D was increasing retraction speed, lowering extruder temperature, optimizing start position for fastest printing speed, and increasing x/y movement speed (movements when not depositing material). I'm not sure how those settings translate to other slicers though.
Cheers!
LitterBug
buzzbomb
I know nothing!
It worked really well!
Unfortunately, I have to reprint it. I have now learned the hard way, that if you pause a print, the next layer may not adhere when you restart it. I've got a big, open line right around where I paused it at. Oh, well. Live and learn.
"Compensate Wall Overlaps" was turned off. I turned that back on.
"Fill Gaps Between Walls" was off. I turned that back on.
I changed the "Z-Seam Alignment" to "Random" since you can see in the picture that I've a nearly solid wall of stringing coming from the seam.
The "Flow" was set to 102%. I changed it to 100%.
"Retraction Distance" was at .8mm. I changed that to 6.5mm.
"Print Speed" was set to 40, but the "Inner Wall Speed" was set to 60. I made it 40.
For the reprint, I'm going to turn "Fill Gaps Between Walls" back off, just in case there's supposed to be a gap, and I'm going to change the Z-seam to "Sharpest Corner." Just curious. "Randomize" leaves little bumps all over the outside.
Unfortunately, I have to reprint it.
I have now learned the hard way, that if you pause a print, the next layer may not adhere when you restart it. I've got a big, open line right around where I paused it at. Oh, well. Live and learn. "Compensate Wall Overlaps" was turned off. I turned that back on.
"Fill Gaps Between Walls" was off. I turned that back on.
I changed the "Z-Seam Alignment" to "Random" since you can see in the picture that I've a nearly solid wall of stringing coming from the seam.
The "Flow" was set to 102%. I changed it to 100%.
"Retraction Distance" was at .8mm. I changed that to 6.5mm.
"Print Speed" was set to 40, but the "Inner Wall Speed" was set to 60. I made it 40.
For the reprint, I'm going to turn "Fill Gaps Between Walls" back off, just in case there's supposed to be a gap, and I'm going to change the Z-seam to "Sharpest Corner." Just curious. "Randomize" leaves little bumps all over the outside.
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buzzbomb
I know nothing!
You know you want to! It's a 3d printing group build! Pics and video are mandatory.
Hint. Hint. @sundown57! 
On second thought, after looking at the parts required to build, It does not mesh well with my parts on hand. Think I'll forgo printing this one for now.
LB
Wildthing
Legendary member
Well slowly making my way through the fuse and now have stopped at the tail section with the rudder and specifically the hinging they designed. Not impressed at all, decent sized round peg for the bottom which is suppose to fit into the rudder, well printing that peg at an angle it isn't perfectly round and that could be my printer but they don't fit. For the top a super small peg on the rudder and there is a little piece to glue onto the vertical which locks the rudder in but that tiny peg I see breaking super easy. Wish they would have just stuck to hinge paper hinges.
buzzbomb
I know nothing!
I haven't got anywhere near that far yet. Do you think it'd be possible to modify that pin design, and use a different hinge system? Just cut off the pins and use paper hinges?
buzzbomb
I know nothing!
My second print of the nose came out pretty good. I tried a new parts cooling fan duct, and it didn't really work well. The bridging that looks like little vents is horrible. I am constantly trying new ones, so I've got another installed, and we see how it does on the next part.
I don't think it requires a reprint at this stage. I'll just clear the air ducts of scrap and leave them open, and move on.
I don't think it requires a reprint at this stage. I'll just clear the air ducts of scrap and leave them open, and move on.
Wildthing
Legendary member
The way they are designed hinge paper won't work and so far I haven't come up with a good idea.
Wildthing
Legendary member
Skip #2 and #3, go to #4 (section 4 of the fuse) and print it and then print the rudder plus rudder hinge which takes 2 minutes
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