INTRODUCTION and a Question

[bullyhys]

Hi Guys,
(This is maybe going to be a bit long winded)...so get a hot cup of something hot and enjoy the read. ☺

And Introduction My name is Merle I'm New to this site. I am a long time model airplane scratch builder.
My favorite subjects are War-birds. Theses tend to be multi engine.
My usual format is modernized control-line (I don't see well enough to fly RC), that is I build what is called Profile scale with 2.4ghz RC enhancements (for throttles, flaps retracts etc.) this per the current AMA rules/guidelines.
My usual construction method is cardboard or foam board, I purchased a builders pack from FT recently.

I am retired and so have time to play with my hobbies, my current project is a Dornier Do 217K-2 bomber from WW2. the new plane spans 60 inches and is foam board, power is 2x E 15 class electric motors.
Now to the problem(s) while working on the completing of my new plane. the planes hot glue softened to the point of failing and started to come apart.
So now a new solution is needed to fix this screw up. I have never used Hot Glue to build plane before so following some suggested ideas(Utube is great)
The other problem is in some ways worse as it was a clever idea i came up with to make the detailing of the model much easier to accomplish, using my home PC an a laser jet printer i did a full model pattern on label paper and stuck this to the foam board prior to cutting everything out. this worked out well with the desired effect the finish came out very good, until the sunlight got to the plane it all came away from the foam board.

So any of you clever folks got any ideas that will help? please note that matches and lighter fluid/gas would be a last resort.☺

Best Regards

 

[TheFlyingBrit]

coming from the UK which has a cool climate, the softening of hot glue rarely becomes an issue even in our hotest summer's. If you live in a hot climate I believe this is more of an issue.
Secondly and I only recently became aware of this myself, there are different grades of hot glue (with respect to temperature). The glue I use is the high temperature variety (trust me I have learned that from experience). However, there is also a low temperature version of hot glue which I believe is unsuitable for model plane building for obvious reasons.
I don't know which issue you have ? climate to hot (which means you need an alternative adhesive), or low temperature hot glue sticks (need to store or throw away and buy new high temperature sticks).
I believe white Gorilla glue is often used in warmer climates as an adhesive (it dries clear), although the drying time is quite long. I am sure there are others on the site who could advise.
There are also some good foam safe cyano acrylate adhesives (CA - super glues) as another option. I have also used foam tac for repairs on my EPO models etc excellent stuff, I have also used UHU Por again excellent for repairs and sticking foam together.

Hope this helps

 

[Merv]

+1 on using high temp glue sticks. The low temp ones are no good.

Also make sure you allow enough time for your glue gun to come to temp (about 5 minutes). There is nothing worse than working with glue that is not up to temp.

 

[bullyhys]

I will look into it Thanks. Me also thinks that my glue gun may be part of this as well.

Again my Thanks ☺

 

[TheFlyingBrit]

I started with a cheap 100 watt glue gun which leaked more glue than I ever got on my foamboard. I now use a decent quality hot glue gun and it makes all the difference I use a Bosch PKP18E.

 

[bullyhys]

Hi All
I acquired a new hot glue gun to replace my old craft antique one. so will continue on with fixing the needed repairs on my Donier Do 217k twin electric.
This subject is maybe way off topic, as the models I build are built from foam board or in many cases heavy cardboard. And they are control line and built to fly on steel cable of .015 or better and from 45ft to 60ft in length. This model is intended to replace my 28 year old 74 in span card board version.

Are there any other control line fliers out there?

 

[luvmy40]

Ah, in the days of my youth...

I haven't flown control wire in quite some time, but I did spend some of the best summers of my younger years dog fighting Cox and Testors wire controlled planes. Mostly .049 size engines.

 

[TheFlyingBrit]

Hi All
I acquired a new hot glue gun to replace my old craft antique one. so will continue on with fixing the needed repairs on my Donier Do 217k twin electric.
This subject is maybe way off topic, as the models I build are built from foam board or in many cases heavy cardboard. And they are control line and built to fly on steel cable of .015 or better and from 45ft to 60ft in length. This model is intended to replace my 28 year old 74 in span card board version.

Are there any other control line fliers out there?

Happy memories of my youth too, alsa spinning around at my age isn't a good idea

 

[bullyhys]

Sadly i dont see well enough to fly RC. and at my age i can still fly CL ☺

 

[bisco]

lots of folks:

https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?search/553944/&q=control+line&c[title_only]=1&o=relevance

 

[TheFlyingBrit]

Sadly i dont see well enough to fly RC. and at my age i can still fly CL ☺

Have you every considered using a system where you tether the model to a pole, which allows up and down movement on the pole but is restricted from leaving the top of the pole.
Using a radio control setup you can then fly your model without standing in the middle of the circle the pole does that part and you retain control of your model with the transmitter stood remotely

 

[bisco]

that sounds cool! (i need a tether to keep mine from flying away)

 

[TheFlyingBrit]

They used a similar system years ago for high speed planes. They would be be tethered to a central point, a fixed amount of fuel would be used (nitro engine) the engine would be started and the model released. The model use to fly around in a circle until the fuel ran out and a tacho would clock the speed achieved.
A similar system could be used to replace the control line setup. Using a fixed pole as a replacement for the pilot and a single tether rather than two control lines. The motor speed and movement of the plane can then be adjusted remotely but within a fixed distance for people who struggle with models flying at distances. It would also be an excellent introduction for beginners as the plane can't fly off into the distance

 

[TheFlyingBrit]

 

[bisco]

i bet i could still crash it

 

[bullyhys]

The tether idea is great, however a pilot is required if the wind comes up and messes up your line tension, been there many times the pilot helps to maintain the line tension. also the correct technique for not getting dizzy is not to pivot in place but, to walk the inside of the center circle. it does take pratice but is easily done.

 

[bisco]

 

[TheFlyingBrit]

I am not decrying the skill of control line pilots, having done it myself I can appreciate how demanding it can be. I was just pointing out that you can still use radio control to fly a plane even if you suffer eye sight problems, simply by using a tether system. Obviously you ideally need a nice calm day or fly indoors in a large sports hall. But at least you can still experience flying RC to a small extent

 

[bullyhys]

My thanks for all your reply's and kind ideas. I was just wondering if posting my 2d control line planes here would be of some interest to folks here, as most models here are RC. My creations do use 2.4ghz rc tech to enhance the flight performance,I do have some 20 yrs plus of building and competition in local contest back when people still flew scale events out here. Most of the people/ friends I flew with are all gone these days many have moved or in a few cases took their final missions. the club is still here but little to no scale events any more. I just completed the patterns for a new slightly smaller do217K along with a Me410 both will span 50 inches.

clear skies

 

[bisco]

any and all posts are interesting, please don't hesitate to share your thoughts, ideas and experiences!