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Just ordered a Bix3. Any tips?

#1
Heyo everyone! I just ordered a Bix3 today, and I've been thinking if there is anything I should be aware of before crashing it.

Bought the PNF, have a transmitter and reciever and have also ordered a 2200mAh 3s Nano-Tech LiPo.

Thanks!
Nikolai
 
#3
It's a pretty straight forward plane, doesn't have any noticeable bad tendencies. I would watch out on the landings though, as the wheel pants are a little fragile.
 

dropkickjohny

Are you cool, man?
#5
I helped my neighbor maiden his Bix3 a few weeks ago. It flew great and didnt really need much trimming. Only thing we did was add about 25% Expo on the aileron and elevator. Maybe ditch the wheels for your first couple of flights if you have someone to hand launch it for you? Good luck!
 

Maingear

Flugzeug Liebhaber
#6
So for your FPV rig-

Before gluing halves together trim out the battery bay so a 3s 5000mah battery will fit. Use their glue to mate fues halves together. Just use it. It's not bad glue. the best part is it softens with the hot water and can be pulled off when the nose needs to get back into shape after it crashes into the ground, then CA can be used after the repair.

Look for a dent in the tail boom on the right side AFT where the tail wheel rod connects to the rudder pushrod, install servo there; trim and z bend rod to fit servo's new location. Install elevator on other side to match to get the CG right for the 5000mah battery. Run the servo leads in the pushrod channels, then poke holes so the leads enter the fuselage at the rear of the cavity. Wrap leads from this point in packing tape, then copper foil tape along with the ESC and battery cable. Don't to forget to install the current sensor at this point (Powerpack C needs this extra length so the battery can be plugged and unplugged easier) ground copper, then cover with another layer of packing tape. Install raspberry pi with Navio+.

Install cameras and Vtx on the tray with antenna aft (use 90 degree elbow to point cloverleaf up), or just skip the tray and 3D print a FPV canopy with pan and tilt off, see thingiverse. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:593242

Take the propeller that came with it and tape it to an expoxy kit. You will have a nice stir stick the next time you need to mix epoxy. Get an APC 10/7E and place a prop balancer hub to get a center, then use a compass to measure the distance from the motor shaft to the tail boom. Mark measurement on new prop, then cut access off, sand to balance.

I can get a 30min flight with a 10 min reserve.

Everything else is clearly (?) explained in the instruction manual.

Best of luck,

Justin
 
Last edited:
#7
So for your FPV rig-

Before gluing halves together trim out the battery bay so a 3s 5000mah battery will fit. Use their glue to mate fues halves together. Just use it. It's not bad glue. the best part is it softens with the hot water and can be pulled off when the nose needs to get back into shape after it crashes into the ground, then CA can be used after the repair.

Look for a dent in the tail boom on the right side AFT where the tail wheel rod connects to the rudder pushrod, install servo there; trim and z bend rod to fit servo's new location. Install elevator on other side to match to get the CG right for the 5000mah battery. Run the servo leads in the pushrod channels, then poke holes so the leads enter the fuselage at the rear of the cavity. Wrap leads from this point in packing tape, then copper foil tape along with the ESC and battery cable. Don't to forget to install the current sensor at this point (Powerpack C needs this extra length so the battery can be plugged and unplugged easier) ground copper, then cover with another layer of packing tape. Install raspberry pi with Navio+.

Install cameras and Vtx on the tray with antenna aft (use 90 degree elbow to point cloverleaf up), or just skip the tray and 3D print a FPV canopy with pan and tilt off, see thingiverse. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:593242

Take the propeller that came with it and tape it to an expoxy kit. You will have a nice stir stick the next time you need to mix epoxy. Get an APC 10/7E and place a prop balancer hub to get a center, then use a compass to measure the distance from the motor shaft to the tail boom. Mark measurement on new prop, then cut access off, sand to balance.

I can get a 30min flight with a 10 min reserve.

Everything else is clearly (?) explained in the instruction manual.

Best of luck,

Justin
Hey, thanks Justin! Nice tip :)

It's the PNF so I don't think I have to glue the fuselage together, I'm not sure though.
Do you think I should do this to be ready for FPV? I'm still a beginner pretty much, so I want to wait before starting FPV. A little preparation never hurts though.

Thanks,
Nikolai
 
#8
I helped my neighbor maiden his Bix3 a few weeks ago. It flew great and didnt really need much trimming. Only thing we did was add about 25% Expo on the aileron and elevator. Maybe ditch the wheels for your first couple of flights if you have someone to hand launch it for you? Good luck!
Hey, dropkickjohny, thanks for the tip!

I'm planning on going to my "local" flying club this sunday to try it out if it's not blowing a hurricane :)
I'm still a beginner so that will probably help (minus the winds)

I'm also awaiting a simulator so if I do not get to fly the Bix, I'll have some fun at my boarding school. Because of said school I don't have much free time.

Thanks :)
Nikolai
 
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#9
Ah, sadly one of the items went on backorder so I replaced it with another. It was a simple prop balancer. Welp, I'm just gonna have to wait till next week and see.

Nikolai
 

Maingear

Flugzeug Liebhaber
#10
Oh! You didn't specify what you were going to do with it. So for a trainer.....

The wheels are only good for concrete surfaces, Throw the wheels away and put 2.5" foam wheels on it. The axel caps simply unscrew. Go ahead an mount the servos in the tail and carv out battery space in nose for 4s 5000mah battery. You'll probably need to make up a 4 inch extension for any battery you install if your ESC does not have a long lead. It has to run from the pylon to the nose. Use the foam canopy. The added weight will allow the plane to fly in higher winds and not get carried off..

If you use a small battey, the servos need to be in the factory location.

Either config-. Check CG, then get someone to triple check controls and CG, then test fly it. It floats for ever, so don't be afraid to abort landing if you think you will run out of runway on approach.

Now you have time to build a ft trainer and get more stick time before the plane arrives.

Good luck!
Justin.
 
#11
Oh! You didn't specify what you were going to do with it. So for a trainer.....

The wheels are only good for concrete surfaces, Throw the wheels away and put 2.5" foam wheels on it. The axel caps simply unscrew. Go ahead an mount the servos in the tail and carv out battery space in nose for 4s 5000mah battery. You'll probably need to make up a 4 inch extension for any battery you install if your ESC does not have a long lead. It has to run from the pylon to the nose. Use the foam canopy. The added weight will allow the plane to fly in higher winds and not get carried off..

If you use a small battey, the servos need to be in the factory location.

Either config-. Check CG, then get someone to triple check controls and CG, then test fly it. It floats for ever, so don't be afraid to abort landing if you think you will run out of runway on approach.

Now you have time to build a ft trainer and get more stick time before the plane arrives.

Good luck!
Justin.
Thanks yet again!