KK 2.0 Alternatives

[Crashpilot1000]

@jhitesma: Inspired by your mwii talk - I put on my old mwii controller (Promini + Freeimu 0.3.5 MS) and uploaded the actual Dev. And it flew good (just the basic modes tested). Promini has lower resolution on the PWM signals so a arduino Mega will give you better stability/response (depending on esc of course) - besides it has more eeprom, more serials etc....
I experienced the loss of eeprom data back in the days of 1.9 after a copter surviving mild crash, it didn't arm by switch again - and that was a luck because when checking with gui values were scrambled / boxes unset. Don't know what the reason was - but it was in conjunction with physical impact. I read reports in different forums that some prominiboards have poor soldering of the cpu - maybe reheating those connections might help.
Cheers
Rob

 

[Cyberdactyl]

IC components and the board assembly itself can have insanely high g tolerances. (some ride in shells out of a military gun) So it would not be impossible to build flight control to MUCH higher g capacities before damage.

But flight control boards generally have a few tall components, and user convenient interfaces. Plus it would be more costly.

 

[jhitesma]

I could certainly see a freak incident wiping an eeprom in a crash. Things can bend and flex in unexpected ways and result in momentary shorts and such that may not seem possible.

After upgrading to the MPU-6050 acc/gyro mine is flying better than ever. I just haven't had any non windy days to tune it in Or work on my camera mount which is a fairly high priority.

I also really want to come up with a better way to mount my motors. The method I'm currently using works...but they always seem to work loose in the zip ties and lead to vibration. I've had a few ideas but haven't had a chance to try any of them out yet...

 

[Cyberdactyl]

I use two pliers and a piece of EPDM roof membrane when I mount the motors.

EPDM is sort of like thick inner tube rubber. I put the rubber under the boom for static pressure on the tie. Not between the boom and motor, as it allows the boom to rock slightly and actually increases lower hertz vibration, and also offers no soft material for the tie to grip.

I use a needle nose against the tie-lock head with the pincers slightly open to allow the pulled end to slip, but block the head and use another pair to pull the tie's end. You can cinch it very tight. If you want even more tension, heat the tie with a heat gun enough to soften, but not enough to melt or weaken the ratchet teeth. I believe there's a tool for doing this, but two pliers work great. I also wrap an extra tiny tie around the two ties holding those cross shaped motor mounts on one side to eliminate any risk of them sliding apart.

 

[Tritium]

There are Ty-Wrap "Guns" available and they are GREAT. I have a Dennison that has been with me over 20 years which allows tension adjustments and cuts off the remaining tongue of the wrap at just the right tension. When just googling them I found prices are INSANE now!

Thurmond

 

[jhitesma]

I thought about picking up one of those ty-wrap guns a few weeks ago...might break down and try one. I've been using the two pairs of pliers method and pulling enough that I've actually pulled some zip ties apart. My polar booms have been crushed by the ties I pull them so tight...but they still come loose on me.

It could just be I need better quality ties. I have some possibly nicer ones I used for Christmas lights this year that I'll try next time I replace.

The big issue just seems to be the 24g motor mounts. The holes are too small to put a zip tie through so I'm doing it basically how CD is just holding 2 of the 4 "legs" of the mount. I haven't tried putting a 3rd tie around to hold the other two though and I haven't tried using any kind of padding. I may give that a try.

I've been thinking about just drilling holes in the ends of my booms (along with a relief cut and a bolt to cinch them up) and ditching the motor mounts entirely...but I'm worried about breaking motors in crashes if I go with that kind of mounting. But I'm crashing a lot less now...but because I'm crashing less I'm getting ready to try more aerobatics and know I'll be crashing more and harder soon

I thought two of my motors had bearings going out on them because they started to sound "rough" - but then I realized it was just that their zip ties were a little loose and they were able to rock back and forth. But even with pliers I can't get one more notch on the zip ties without breaking the ties.

 

[Cyberdactyl]

Sounds like you're wanting that tad bit extra. Heating the tie helps snag that next tooth.

 

[Crashpilot1000]

Since we are here OT, I want to take it a step further.... lol.
Good idea with those Ty-Wrap "Guns"! Concerning zip ties I saw those black ones being more fragile than the non colored ones - BTW unless you are using UV resistant Zips double secure motor zip mounting - just a tip.
Concerning mwii and MPU6050 consider using "#define MPU6050_LPF_42HZ" in config.h. It will enable the mpu lowpassfilter that comes in handy with acc usage (althold, horizon/angle mode) - that tip is depending on your copter/setup/vibrations but def. something to try out.

 

[Tritium]

After just receiving my KK2.1's from Hobby King I am definitely looking for another control board for my builds. Not that the board has a performance issue (I haven't even powered it up yet). It is a workmanship issue and a big one in my book. The display on BOTH my boards is jacked up on the right side and rather than sit on the display carrier frame support legs it is sitting on top of the Motor Connectors on the right side. The display was also not stuck down to its "carrier frame". Why can't the Chinese learn to DE-FLUX a board AFTER soldering? Soldering of connectors and display are "Horrrrriiibull" and the display connectors are bordering on cold joints.

Think I will go support "Time Cop" and His NAZE for a while. It seems to be a MUCH better board but NOT as "USER Friendly as the KK2 seems". The Japanese got over their initial "BAD" manufacturing in the 1960's and I am tired of going through it with the Chinese all over again (on control boards anyway).

Just reporting.

Thurmond

 

[Cyberdactyl]

Thanks for the heads up Tritium. My 2.1 should be arriving any day (I ordered it at Thanksgiving and it's passed thru the NY facility)

All four of my KK2s have had the display completely loose in the white tray, and the black tape covering the ribbon partially peeling off and the bottom of the boards always look like someone used it as a plate to eat a sriracha laden burrito, but they seem to keep working.

 

[Crashpilot1000]

Well personally I am no big fan of TC anymore (though I once was) and stopped shopping his stuff.
You can get compatible hardware here as well:
http://witespyquad.gostorego.com/flight-controllers/the-flip32.html (Like Acro Naze, no mag, no baro)
http://witespyquad.gostorego.com/flight-controllers/the-flip32-249.html (Like Naze V4)
Just pointing out some alternatives but I think TCs' flightcontrols might have a better PCB build quality.
If you want to buy a way better FC with real potential you should go for http://www.quantec-networks.de/shop/en/quanton/1/quanton-flight-control-rev.-1
Just presenting personal based preferences here.
Cheers
Rob

 

[cranialrectosis]

Besides the KK2.1, which flight controller on HK's site (international) has the latest hardware?

 

[Cyberdactyl]

As with every one of the KK2s I've received, the new 2.1 had the same quality shortcomings. . . among the sloppy waxy flux on the bottom side, a loose display. . .



The good news is they don't appear to effect the quality of flight.