Your website is looking better and better biggles.
Hope it's a success.
I watched your entire video. I agree with your build techniques in general, but allow me to throw a few comments your way for consideration.
- I understand your worry the motors working loose from the motor mounts, but I have never had an issue with the DT750's coming loose IF you thread-lock (blue) the screws. To me it seems an unnecessary added weight. But if you use your method, I would suggest you thread-lock the hose clamp screw.
- I would strongly suggest you cut off the excess motor shaft, leaving around 4mm above the nut(s). It will reduce the chance of bending if you land or roll upside down from a crash.
- I also secured the motor leads as you suggest. But I don't think it's necessary to completely coat all the windings. It seems to be an unnecessary insulator. I would suggest just around the location where the leads connect. I used JB Weld for it's strength under temperature. I thought about hot glue, but the windings do occasionally get very warm, so I was a bit worried the glue might soften during heavy motor load. And the complete coating of the stator windings will accelerate heating.
But I must mention, there's a HUGE caveat in using JB Weld. JB Weld is magnetic. I learned this the hard way. What you MUST do if you use it is to remove the stator from the bell housing, as the housing has the neodymium magnets and the JB Weld WILL propagate towards the magnets and bridge the gap between the housing and the stator. I spent roughly 15 minutes per motor with an exacto blade chipping the away that bridge.
- Just curious, did you flash your ESCs with a modified hex such as SimonKs firmware?
- When soldering the bullet connectors, I would suggest a wooden block with holes about a centimeter deep the same diameter as the connectors so they can sit in an insulated 'container', instead of using pliers or a metal clamp. Metal grips or clamps act as a heat sink and extend the time it takes to reach a proper temp for the solder.
- I would feel uncomfortable having the batteries only secured to the craft with hot glue. But admittedly, your batteries do not hang under the craft, so I'm not entirely paranoid about your mounting method.
-Two batteries in parallel is awesome, if one is willing to accept the extra mass.
- I would suggest using a hot air gun for all heat-strink, a flame can easily melt through and eliminate the heat-shrink's purpose as an electrical barrier, but that a minor nit-pick.
-I much prefer XT60's instead of Dean's because XT60 have no exposed leads, regardless whether they are hot or not. But again, that's a minor nit-pick.
- I would STRONGLY suggest you don't file the nuts over the open bell housings. Metal filings will almost certainly find their way into the windings.
- I understand the logic of using 2 nuts for clockwise rotation, but I've yet to have an issue IF you thread lock the nut.
Again, overall congrats. Hope you sell a ton.