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KKBoard V2.1 Unboxing and Quick Overview

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
#1
KKBoard V2.1 Unboxing and Quick Overview

by colorex
I received a small box today. I got home delivery, which I've never gotten before! I had ordered a KKboard, with some stickers, so it would be a mild packaging challenge.



HobbyKing surprised me. They did a very good job packaging my stuff. When shaking the box, it didn't rattle. This was explained by the two fill-air bags inside, plus the bubble-wrap.



And there it is: the four sticker sheets were folded to a fit, but not ruining the stickers. The KKboard box was in a ziplock bag.



This is the box. It's made of som sort of soft foam, that should protect the board from bumps and stuff. The lid was taped on. The box is made by layering different foam thicknesses.


Upon removal of the tape and the lid, the KKboard is exposed. The walls of the box are very thick.​


You need to apply gentle force to et the kKboard out. It's not too hard as the box is bendy.​


This is the KKboard.​


There are cutouts in the box to fit the pins and the gyro. Clever.​


Board!​


The actual dimensions were 50 x 50 mm, advertised was 50,5 x 50,5 mm. Close enough.​


This is the processor. ATMega 168PA.​


These are the gyros.​


These are the pots.​



Input pin detail.​



Output pin detail.​



Upon closer examination, it looks like there is some clear epoxy on the backside contacts. suppose this should be good for protecting the joints from shorts. Don't trust me on that, though.

UPDATE: Tritium tells me it might be soldering flux.​



The board is currently inside it's box in my drawer, waiting for more tricopter fun!

Cheers,

Colorex​
 
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Tritium

Amateur Extra Class K5TWM
#2
That looks like solder flux on the backside. They probably did not bother to clean it after soldering. Mine looked the same way.

By the way here is a tip: You can use 2 - 3 wire female to female cables instead of 4 cables to hook up the inputs on the KK board from your receiver. Hook up the first wire to Channel 1 of the receiver as normal and hook up the second wire across the next 3 channel signal pins only. Do the same thing on the KK board. This is possible because all the positive connections are tied together in the receiver and on the board. Likewise with all the negative connections.

Thurmond
 

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
#3
That looks like solder flux on the backside. They probably did not bother to clean it after soldering. Mine looked the same way.
Well, I considered that, but it was hard to touch and not easy to scrape. I'll update the post, though.

By the way here is a tip: You can use 2 - 3 wire female to female cables instead of 4 cables to hook up the inputs on the KK board from your receiver.
Only if the channel mappings match the order of the receiver channels. Thanks!
 

fred0000

Senior Member
#4
after seeing you getting stickers on my last order, I had to make a few changes and while I was on chat I requested for them to add stickers i'm pretty excited to finaly get some, i've also been planing a multi rotor build (Quad, not Tri though) so i'll be keeping an eye on your project.
 

Tritium

Amateur Extra Class K5TWM
#5
Only if the channel mappings match the order of the receiver channels. Thanks!
Which both my Turnigy TGY9X receiver's (9X8Cv2) and My Futaba 7C receiver's (Futaba, Orange RX, Corona) all do. I don't know about others though. (Edit: My Dynam does reverse the elevator and aileron channel order on the receiver as compared to the Turnigy and Futaba but you could still use 2 cables with a little creative pin/plug rearrangement)

Thurmond
 
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