L-19, 27% from Hostetler Plans, 116" span

[CaptBill]

Thanks.
Some people get offended when asked about money. I'm married 42 years and 4 adult children, two old.parents. Thick skin here as well.

As a relaxing hobby the cost is almost meaningless but having not undertaken a model airplane project like.this I was clueless. I'm just now.getting.into planes.having spent, and will continue, the better part of the last 20 years messing with full size sailboats. I was asked once at a CGAux meeting what I spend annually on my boat. The it who asked cloaked when I told him. But then I don't buy tickets to Pro sport events.
In comparison rc model building.isn't very expensive.

 

[Joker 53150]

As my dad always liked to say, "The definition of a boat is 'a hole in the water you throw money into.'" He owned a few, so first-hand knowledge... A couple years ago he finally realized that owning a boat no longer made sense for him so he sold it and took up flying RC with me.

 

[willsonman]

Its funny though. I knew a fellow who moved to VA from AZ and got out of the RC hobby to take up sailing. He unloaded about $1K of stuff to me for only $100.

 

[Joker 53150]

I could use some friends like that! One of the guys at the field my dad and I fly at had a half-built Sig Ryan STA balsa kit that was given to him years ago. He doesn't build much anymore and found out I'm addicted to balsa, so he sent it my way. It's a beautiful design and I can't wait to start on it some day.

 

[CaptBill]

Boats can be expensive. Unfortunately for many who own them it becomes VERY EXPENSIVE if you pay someone else to care for and maintain it AND, like so many, only use it a half 135x Times a year.
It's a rare day when I pay for work on my boats and, weath e r permitting, spend about 100 days a year on or about the water. Actually we were out just last week on a nice 60 degree January day in NJ.
I think the person who made up that little saying was actually a fisherman who didn't like boats.

 

[Tench745]

I too am a sailor. I've got a little 25footer I bob around on Lake Ontario in. For me RC flying has been similarly expensive. I think my first year flying RC I spent over $800 in kitting out with batteries, charger, motors, servos, TX, etc etc. By boat when I bought her only cost $800. That said, the yearly expenses are much lower for electric planes. Now I make my money to fly RC from sailing other people's boats. I probably spent 50 days on the water last year and didn't have a chance to even get my own boat wet. Most days it's a lot easier to buzz around the sky for an hour at the local park than drive up to the lake to go sailing.

 

[CaptBill]

I obtained my Capt. Lo f because I intended to use it, after retiring, to continue earning some and to keep letting Uncle Sam help pay for my pleasure. Then I had a very high bad fall and it altered my plan. Still do enough boating for pay to keep my tax deductions legal but I don't earn enough taxable income to care..
Sorry I didn't intend to hijack the thread.

 

[Joker 53150]

After much deliberation regarding the power plant for the L-19 I've finally made a decision. The 50cc is on the low end for recommended size, and the Quadra is not known as super powerful. It's durable, but heavy. I'm also planning to sheet the wing which will add some weight, meaning the Quadra probably isn't a great choice... a new 58cc with electronic ignition has now been ordered. This will also fit properly without an additional prop spacer. The Quadra will find a home in a different project better suited for it. A couple other pieces have been ordered so I can get some major progress soon.

The pushrod exits at the tail have been a headache so far, trying to keep everything lined up and also avoiding the pull-pull cables. Some changes are coming that should help that soon.

 

[Joker 53150]

The Chartpak tape for simulating panel lines arrived tonight, so I'm giving it a trial run on one elevator while I wait for the Zpoxy on the rudder to cure. I've got 3 thicknesses of tape to work with, 1/64", 1/32", and 1/16" wide. Because of the size of this plane I'm trying the 1/32" to start with on a couple of wider lines, like the trim tab on the right elevator. Thinner 1/64" will be used elsewhere when I find lines that look less pronounced. The difference is very slight and will be less evident once a few finish coats of paint are sprayed. For now, the first light coat of primer has been sprayed over the elevator and I'm cautiously optimistic!

 

[willsonman]

Dont be. It is THE method for panel lines.

 

[Joker 53150]

How pronounced should the line be after priming, sanding lightly, and then removing the tape? I sanded enough to expose the black tape color and when the tape was removed the resulting line is fairly shallow. I assume it really shows up with the finish coloring? From what I've read this is also the time to add rivet detail?

 

[willsonman]

Usually, I apply three light coats of primer before sanding it down. Using a little water helps you to do it lightly so you do not over sand. Its going to be subtle under primer but with paint it will pop more. Matte finishes also take it down a notch.

Now would, indeed, be the time to start on your rivets. Keep them even and consistent. Over primer, I recommend canopy glue or titebond. Until the model is painted and the rivets are sealed it they are susceptible to moisture and can come off easily on more damp days. These glues help prevent this but still have their drawbacks.

If they are flush rivets, I use the soldering iron method. Small piece of copper tube in the tip of the iron and melt tiny rings into the primer/surface. Diameter is determined by scale. Keep in mind that you want it to be fairly pronounced at first as paint will fill the ring and make it less prominent. I highly recommend practice on this. Scrap piece of balsa. Do rows of differing time and pressure and then paint over it to see which you like better.

 

[Joker 53150]

I think there is a combination of flush and standard rivets on this plane, but haven't looked at them in detail yet. Should be fun!

 

[Joker 53150]

Getting the pushrods and cables routed for the tail feathers is kind of important, so I'm not rushing into the layout. It's actually dragging on far longer than I'd like, but if the controls don't operate well it could obviously be disastrous. The pull-pull cables are mocked up with a heavy thread, and the red tubes are for the elevator pushrods. The pushrods are tentatively going to cross near the tail which gives me a decent exit angle. But that's subject to change, more on that later. I find these inside pictures strangely satisfying.




Here's where I've had the biggest headaches, trying to get the control horns, pushrods, and cables to all work & play well together in a confined area. The plans are drawn around the use of the Robart control horns shown on this elevator. Hostetler drew the up on the rudder as well, although I went with a different setup. I'm going to have to do some mock-up to see if the Robart pieces will be a better choice. The two pieces look like they're going to hit, but there is plenty of room when surfaces are neutral. I'll give them full deflection and see if that changes. Also note that I had to cut a large-ish access hole in both sides so I could let the pushrod and wire mock-up go where they naturally want - this allows me to make sure there are no unnecessary bends and that the pull-pull wire won't hit anything. The holes will be very easy to patch once the layout is confirmed.




A view from the top, where the elevator pushrods may end up crossing. Extra support will be added inside for the snakes.




There is still some sanding needed on the rudder to remove excess spot-putty, but it's looking good!

 

[Turbojoe]

Love the close ups. VERY nice work on all the joints. Looking like a piece of fine furniture.....

Joe

 

[wilmracer]

Looking REALLY great. Very clean and looks like it will work great. You'll love the panel line method. It really works well and will give you a great looking finished product.

 

[Joker 53150]

Thanks guys!

So it looks like the big Robert control horns are going to work better than the horn I designed the rudder for. I'll have to patch the holes and do a little modification to it, but that'll be pretty easy. The new horns give me better angles and are a little more appropriate looking.

 

[Joker 53150]

Also, the navigation lights showed up today and are quite interesting. I'll be able to control them from the TX as needed. I'll use the wingtip lights, a landing light, and a belly strobe. Over the weekend I'll get some pics of it and maybe a short video of the strobe.

 

[Turbojoe]

What nav lights did you get? Probably Cree LED's for this monster.

Joe

 

[AkimboGlueGuns]

Also, the navigation lights showed up today and are quite interesting. I'll be able to control them from the TX as needed. I'll use the wingtip lights, a landing light, and a belly strobe. Over the weekend I'll get some pics of it and maybe a short video of the strobe.

Is the landing light in the cowl like other small Cessnas? It makes for a pretty cool effect when the light is on and the prop is at low RPM when it's mounted right there.