Hai-Lee
Old and Bold RC PILOT
The Tiny trainer power pod has a few limitations and many complain about its inability to withstand impact damage as well as how they cannot fit the motor that they want to fit.
I decided to do a Tiny Trainer version of the venerable "Ugly Stick" and so the wing/lift and the power pod needed to be revised.
The issue I struck in the past was the slightest nose impact often damaged the power pod mounts and altered the thrust angles such that a new power pod was often the only easy way to return the plane to its intended thrust angles.
After a little deliberation I built the robust power pod, (MIDI?) to suit the Tiny trainer. It now has impact resistance by transferring the impact forces to the bose side cheeks rather than directly to the skewers use to retain the power pod in position. Now the Skewers are there only to stop the power pod from moving forward or falling out of the nose. CAUTION!! As the power pod is more solid, if you impact the ground there is the chance that the motor will bear more impact damage and could be severely damaged in the event of a crash!
Here is the procedure to build and fit the more robust power pod!
Firstly in order to fit the power pod the nose cheeks/reinforcing on the nose of the TT will need to be altered or modified. Apart from the removed portion the cheeks/reinforcing will still need to be fitted into their original positions.
Here is the info on what must be removed from each nose cheek.
Once the nose section is complete you need to fold up and glue the original Mini Power Pod but DO NOT fit the standard firewall/motor mount!
Next cut a scrap of FB to be 25mm wide and 100mm long. Measure and score cut at a distance of 31mm from each end of the scrap piece. Next add a second score cut at a distance of the thickness of the FB used, (5mm), from the existing score cuts but on the side closest to the centre of the piece.
Now remove the foam from the channels to allow the fold and glue process.
Next take the Mini Power Pod which has been folded and glues and glue it to the centre piece of foam on the new reinforcing piece. The reinforcing piece must be glued and aligned with what was the "Wrong" end of the mini power pod. It must be the end with ZERO side thrust!
Now fold up and glue the remaining sides of the reinforcing piece ensuring that the ends on the reinforcing piece are flush with the tops of the sides of the original power pod.
Next test fit it to the modified nose section.
Remove power pod from the nose section and cut the required size firewall/motor mount from your chosen material. I use plywood, (41 x 37 mm). Then glue or mount the firewall to the powerpod ensuring that the bottom and side edges line up flush. The top of the firewall protrudes 5mm above the front of the firewall and fits against the top piece of the nose section.
Test fit to the modified nose section.
The powerpod is held in using standard BBQ skewers as per the original TT Power pod.
Fit your desired motor and you are right to go!
Here are a couple of my larger motors fitted.
a CF2812 1534kV with a 7x6 prop
A 2826 1200kV propdrive with an 11x4.7 SF prop
Side and down thrust angles are added by the use of blocks or shims!
I hope you like the idea!
Have fun!
I decided to do a Tiny Trainer version of the venerable "Ugly Stick" and so the wing/lift and the power pod needed to be revised.
The issue I struck in the past was the slightest nose impact often damaged the power pod mounts and altered the thrust angles such that a new power pod was often the only easy way to return the plane to its intended thrust angles.
After a little deliberation I built the robust power pod, (MIDI?) to suit the Tiny trainer. It now has impact resistance by transferring the impact forces to the bose side cheeks rather than directly to the skewers use to retain the power pod in position. Now the Skewers are there only to stop the power pod from moving forward or falling out of the nose. CAUTION!! As the power pod is more solid, if you impact the ground there is the chance that the motor will bear more impact damage and could be severely damaged in the event of a crash!
Here is the procedure to build and fit the more robust power pod!
Firstly in order to fit the power pod the nose cheeks/reinforcing on the nose of the TT will need to be altered or modified. Apart from the removed portion the cheeks/reinforcing will still need to be fitted into their original positions.
Here is the info on what must be removed from each nose cheek.
Once the nose section is complete you need to fold up and glue the original Mini Power Pod but DO NOT fit the standard firewall/motor mount!
Next cut a scrap of FB to be 25mm wide and 100mm long. Measure and score cut at a distance of 31mm from each end of the scrap piece. Next add a second score cut at a distance of the thickness of the FB used, (5mm), from the existing score cuts but on the side closest to the centre of the piece.
Now remove the foam from the channels to allow the fold and glue process.
Next take the Mini Power Pod which has been folded and glues and glue it to the centre piece of foam on the new reinforcing piece. The reinforcing piece must be glued and aligned with what was the "Wrong" end of the mini power pod. It must be the end with ZERO side thrust!
Now fold up and glue the remaining sides of the reinforcing piece ensuring that the ends on the reinforcing piece are flush with the tops of the sides of the original power pod.
Next test fit it to the modified nose section.
Remove power pod from the nose section and cut the required size firewall/motor mount from your chosen material. I use plywood, (41 x 37 mm). Then glue or mount the firewall to the powerpod ensuring that the bottom and side edges line up flush. The top of the firewall protrudes 5mm above the front of the firewall and fits against the top piece of the nose section.
Test fit to the modified nose section.
The powerpod is held in using standard BBQ skewers as per the original TT Power pod.
Fit your desired motor and you are right to go!
Here are a couple of my larger motors fitted.
a CF2812 1534kV with a 7x6 prop
A 2826 1200kV propdrive with an 11x4.7 SF prop
Side and down thrust angles are added by the use of blocks or shims!
I hope you like the idea!
Have fun!