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Laser Tag Combat - Community Suggestions

#41
Ioteo,

Do you think your laser tag system will work for distances and light conditions like in the following video? If so, I would love to buy one (or two - one for target and one for chaser).

 

ioteo

New member
#42
Ioteo,

Do you think your laser tag system will work for distances and light conditions like in the following video? If so, I would love to buy one (or two - one for target and one for chaser).

Hey man, are you “motionsic” or turbineFancy?
The one with the videos with the reflector gunsight?
If so, we already met and talked in the past months as I remember...
Nice to see you here too! Me and other tester used the system in different weather conditions, right now in direct sunlight we were able to shoot each other up to 25/30meters.
In evening or night(indoor) I could reach also 50meters.
You should keep in mi d a couple of things:
- there are no lenses (yet) installed to focus the IR beam that means that the distance can still be increased;
- collimating the light beam means that the shooting surface has to be reduced;
- in laser tag system sniper at able to shoot up to 200m but the beam size is really small (<5cm or 2”).
I’m working on a video where it shows the system working in daylight using two fighter models!
 

Duck

Active member
#43
If anyone wants to try building a system, I do recommend checking out the Laser Tag Parts site for some pre-built components or checking out their good content on the schematics or system design. Their store seems to be having problems but hopefully it will come back.

In particular, you likely cannot do better then their IR receiver domes. They made a very simple PCB for 1-3 IR receives that fits under a plastic dome. It is connectable in serial to other domes. You can also swap their recommend TSOP34856 with any of the variant depending on what frequency you use.

The datasheet has the part number per frequency:
https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Sensors/Infrared/tsop382.pdf

You can buy the PCB bare for only a few dollars or use their layout yourself if their store doesn't come back.
http://www.lasertagparts.com/mtsensors.htm

If it turns out to be down for good, it might be worth doing a little PCB design and doing a single small batch of just the receiver domes. I would recommend trying to give the laser tag parts store the business if they are still running though.
 
#44
Hey man, are you “motionsic” or turbineFancy?
The one with the videos with the reflector gunsight?
If so, we already met and talked in the past months as I remember...
Nice to see you here too! Me and other tester used the system in different weather conditions, right now in direct sunlight we were able to shoot each other up to 25/30meters.
In evening or night(indoor) I could reach also 50meters.
You should keep in mi d a couple of things:
- there are no lenses (yet) installed to focus the IR beam that means that the distance can still be increased;
- collimating the light beam means that the shooting surface has to be reduced;
- in laser tag system sniper at able to shoot up to 200m but the beam size is really small (<5cm or 2”).
I’m working on a video where it shows the system working in daylight using two fighter models!
Yes. Both. Have joined the different forums at different times. I think 25/30 meters effective range is a good match for models around 1.5m wingspan. Since they are about 1:7 scale and full scale WW II fighters dogfight at about 150-200m range.

Looking forward to seeing demo of your laser tag system at work! Can’t wait to see feedback from target taking hits...

 

Duck

Active member
#45
If anyone wants to try building a system, I do recommend checking out the Laser Tag Parts site for some pre-built components or checking out their good content on the schematics or system design. Their store seems to be having problems but hopefully it will come back.

In particular, you likely cannot do better then their IR receiver domes. They made a very simple PCB for 1-3 IR receives that fits under a plastic dome. It is connectable in serial to other domes. You can also swap their recommend TSOP34856 with any of the variant depending on what frequency you use.

The datasheet has the part number per frequency:
https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Sensors/Infrared/tsop382.pdf

You can buy the PCB bare for only a few dollars or use their layout yourself if their store doesn't come back.
http://www.lasertagparts.com/mtsensors.htm

If it turns out to be down for good, it might be worth doing a little PCB design and doing a single small batch of just the receiver domes. I would recommend trying to give the laser tag parts store the business if they are still running though.
I did a mockup sensor board just to try out an open source PCB tool (Fritzing) I found:
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/VTIP31lM

1574460318959.png

I can pretty much guarantee the board won't work as is as I didn't break out the datasheets and just did everything from memory but in about 90 minutes I had the tool working and a first draft. The total thing is 40mm diameter. OSH Park says it should be about 13$ for 3 boards.

The board has lots of issues so I'll try to fix them before actually attempting a board. Things like:
  • The board uses the wrong TSOP IR Receiver. You can see the pins are not evenly spaced, but the ones I've used before should be.
  • None of the parts are quite even on the board. I couldn't quite get the grid snap in Fritzing working in a sane way.
  • The traces are UGLY. Autoroute gave me weird issues so I did most of them by hand in a way I could still make sense of the board and avoid overlaps between the two layers.
  • The board does not have a fancy hit led that you can make flash.
  • The label on the header pins is not clear. I need to look at how those pins can be better labeled.
  • I am not sure about the cap/resistor through hole spacing. I just picked close parts from the built in parts list.
  • The back of the board is basically blank and I missed my change to silkscreen a cool duck on it.
  • No connectors for daisy chaining boards like the neat ones from Laser Tag Parts.
Overall it was much easier then I expected. The tool also appears to be optimized for things like Arduino shields. This might make building the main controller much easier. It needs:
  • An H-Bridge for amplifying the IR LED to a reasonable power + various pull ups/downs.
  • A connector for the IR LED which would be mounted in the light tube.
  • A connector for the receiver board.
  • Maybe a power connector for tapping the flight battery or other battery. The H-Bridge requires more power then the Arduino can drive.
  • A connector for LED strip for hit indicator, which might require additional power.
That is a more complicated board however. I would really want to breadboard it first as that board involves alot more data sheets all at once :)
 

ioteo

New member
#46
I would suggest to use eagle cad as PCB editor...
It is free and full of features!
That’s the one I used for my custom PCB.
I’m working on the video footage, hopefully it will be ready in the next weeks!
 

Duck

Active member
#47
I would suggest to use eagle cad as PCB editor...
It is free and full of features!
That’s the one I used for my custom PCB.
I’m working on the video footage, hopefully it will be ready in the next weeks!
I am very big on any editor that has default templates for everything I am going to use.