Legacy motor burned up???

Flightspeed

Convicted Necroposter
I can’t read motor ratings lol but this is the recommended, not sure if those fit or not, they look like the “budget b” to me.
 

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HVB79

Member
And as far as I know there’s nothing on a brushless motor that would smoke (don’t quote me on this)

When a motor smokes the smoke is caused by the insulation on the motor wires burning. If too much current is flowing in the wires it causes them to heat up until the insulation burns. The copper color you see when looking at the motor windings is a very thin insulator not the metal of the wire. This is why on a burnt out motor the windings look black.

It is also possible to very slowly burn out the windings by pushing the motor just beyond the safe temperature limit. The insulation on the windings will slowly go from shinny to black without any visible smoke over a number of flights.

Method for making a motor smoke 100% of the time:
  1. Use an ESC rated for more power than the motor can handle.
  2. Use large / high pitch prop, the more you over prop the faster you get smoke.
 
Last edited:

NickRehm

Member
When a motor smokes the smoke is caused by the insulation on the motor wires burning. If too much current is flowing in the wires it causes them to heat up until the insulation burns. The copper color you see when looking at the motor windings is a very thin insulator not the metal of the wire. This is why on a burnt out motor the windings look black.

It is also possible to very slowly burn out the windings by pushing the motor just beyond the safe temperature limit. The insulation on the windings will slowly go from shinny to black without any visible smoke over a number of flights.

Method for making a motor smoke 100% of the time:
  1. Use an ESC rated for more power than the motor can handle.
  2. Use large / high pitch prop, the more you over prop the faster you get smoke.
I agree with everything except #1: You may have meant voltage instead of power. ESC should always be rated 25%+ higher than the max current the motor will draw, at its max operating voltage
 

HVB79

Member
I agree with everything except #1: You may have meant voltage instead of power. ESC should always be rated 25%+ higher than the max current the motor will draw, at its max operating voltage

Power measured in Watts. ESCs are rated in Amps while motors are rated in Watts. To compare a 35 Amp ESC to a 300 Watt motor we need to know the Volts that we will be running and convert the ESC rating into Watts.

Example #1: A 35 Amp rated ESC, a 300 Watt motor and a 11.1 volt battery.
35 Amps * 11.1 volt = 388.5 Watt rated ESC
388.5 Watt rated ESC is greater than the 300 Watt rating for the motor so the motor will fail first.

Example #2: A 35 Amp rated ESC, a 600 Watt motor and a 11.1 volt battery.
35 Amps * 11.1 volt = 388.5 Watt rated ESC
388.5 Watt rated ESC is less than the 600 Watt rating for the motor so the ESC will throttle down or fail first saving the motor regardless how large a prop we install. If we want to ensure motor destruction we can't have this situation.

The main point being that the ESC needs to be sized larger than the motor so that the ESC does not shut down due to thermal protection or over Amp safety measures built into the ESC. If the ESC shuts down before we reach the power level required to burn out the motor the ESC could save both the ESC and motor from damage. If the ESC lacks thermal protection or over Amp protection, as some do, it could simply fail before providing the power needed to damage the motor.