Mr Man
Mr SPEED!
I’ve seen the middle one several times, at least.
LitterBug's Strix Nano Goblin Build
- Thread starter LitterBug
- Start date
Houndpup Rc
Legendary member
I had these:
4pcs EMAX AVAN 5x4.3 3-Blade Propellers (2x CW / 2x CCW) | SpeedyFPV
The EMAX Avan Flow propeller 5x4.3x3 was designed to maximize control while remaining efficient. A true constant 4.3" pitch throughout the blade gives a linear control feeling across the throttle band while still achieving high speeds. With a special material blend, the Avan Flow weighs 4.3...
Houndpup Rc
Legendary member
Still have to try the 5.5x6.5 on it.....If I could stop crashing....😒
Houndpup Rc
Legendary member
I had a Emax Eco II 2306 2400kv on a 4S 2200mah with 50C discharge rating.
Doing the final glueing on the nano goblin. Had both vertical stabilizers on and was having troubles with the front end not staying in before I realized I had put them on upside down! D'OH! Fortunately the glue had not set up and I was able to flip them the right way. LOL
LB
Been sidetracked with spring breaks, work, cycling, and bad weather. Got around to getting the Caddx Walksnail Pro camera today and will use the V3 single antenna VTX I already have. The pro camera has a gyro and will allow gyroflow and native stabilization without having to sync data with the FC. It is also a VERY capable low light camera. Will be using the same camera in the full size goblin but with the dual antenna VTX. Trying to keep the nano sub 250g capable when I'm not running a 3S Li-Ion pack, so I could plausibly use a naked V2 vtx to save some weight.
Still need to verify the servo arms are centered before glueing them in, mount the FC, wire and mount the VTX. May make some cuts to adjust the camera angle before mounting it too. seems too nose down for my liking.
Had nice calm air here tonight and was playing with NG #2. Knocked it's nose off at the end of a 3S pack and had to glue it back on. It is currenly just LOS with an Aura5. first "real" wreck for NG#2. I had already designated it my beater Goblin but now it has officially been beaten!
Houndpup Rc
Legendary member
OI have wondered how the Walksnail camera are in real life....I have heard that the DJI o4 pro is better but.....The price of the goggles and VTX/camera🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑View attachment 250247
Been sidetracked with spring breaks, work, cycling, and bad weather. Got around to getting the Caddx Walksnail Pro camera today and will use the V3 single antenna VTX I already have. The pro camera has a gyro and will allow gyroflow and native stabilization without having to sync data with the FC. It is also a VERY capable low light camera. Will be using the same camera in the full size goblin but with the dual antenna VTX. Trying to keep the nano sub 250g capable when I'm not running a 3S Li-Ion pack, so I could plausibly use a naked V2 vtx to save some weight.
Still need to verify the servo arms are centered before glueing them in, mount the FC, wire and mount the VTX. May make some cuts to adjust the camera angle before mounting it too. seems too nose down for my liking.
Had nice calm air here tonight and was playing with NG #2. Knocked it's nose off at the end of a 3S pack and had to glue it back on. It is currenly just LOS with an Aura5. first "real" wreck for NG#2. I had already designated it my beater Goblin but now it has officially been beaten!
I don't really care to compare to gear that I don't own/use. For the walksnail gear, the pro is currently considered the best low light camera. I fly at dusk quite often since the winds die down then. I have the Walksnail Moonlight camera, but most users agree it should really have been named the 4K, since it isn't their best low light camera and is 4k. That is what I have on the Stratosurfer. Now also with the gimbal. It does pretty good at dusk but I have not tried it in truely low moonlight conditions. Hope to be able to do that this year, especially at FliteFest and compare both cameras.
Houndpup Rc
Legendary member
Actually the 04 has slightly better low performance because it has a HUGE color sensor. But Walksnail is right up behind it.
Houndpup Rc
Legendary member
Whoops never mind. The Walksnail brightness the whole image better but the DJI 04 picks up the color better (That's what I am remembering)
Houndpup Rc
Legendary member
I wasn't criticizing your stuff, or trying to make you change......I was just stating something that I thought because you said that it was the best.
Houndpup Rc
Legendary member
No offense meant.
Houndpup Rc
Legendary member
Gulp......It pays to not read between the lines! 😂 🤣 😂
OK then. Another stalled out project getting some love! After Finding my PERFECT FC for this build thanks to @Merv (https://forum.flitetest.com/index.p...ing-mini-mk1-a-cheap-flight-controller.80418/ ) I am back on it to finish it up! Running ArduPilot Plane V4.6.3 (current latest) and checking the center, direction, and throws of the servos. ALWAYS check throws and center in Full MANUAL mode. Fortunately I still had control horn/push rods from #1, because one of the set screws was missing, and it has been a year of getting moved around so who knows where it eneded up.
This is an Elevon mix and the Aileron is doing Elevator things, and elevator is doing aileron things, so one of the servos is reversed and/or an RC channel is reversed. NEVER ASSUME that if the servos do what the sticks should do in manual mode, that everything is correct! One of your RC channels could be backwards. Recheck that in autoleveling mode, the servos correct in the right direction. If not, you may have servos AND a RC channel backwards which will totally not work in navigation modes. Ask me how I know. 😵 In this case Servo right backwards, and Elevator RC input reversed.. I fixed them in the Radio Calibration and Servo Output screens Screens by clicking the reverse boxes.
I am testing without the ESC hooked up, so don't worry about the prop (hah which you can't see) being on, it isn't powered up! Wanted to test one of my Nano BECs that I plan to use on the 3D Printed Nano Wings, and this gave me a good opportunity,
This is an Elevon mix and the Aileron is doing Elevator things, and elevator is doing aileron things, so one of the servos is reversed and/or an RC channel is reversed. NEVER ASSUME that if the servos do what the sticks should do in manual mode, that everything is correct! One of your RC channels could be backwards. Recheck that in autoleveling mode, the servos correct in the right direction. If not, you may have servos AND a RC channel backwards which will totally not work in navigation modes. Ask me how I know. 😵 In this case Servo right backwards, and Elevator RC input reversed.. I fixed them in the Radio Calibration and Servo Output screens Screens by clicking the reverse boxes.
I am testing without the ESC hooked up, so don't worry about the prop (hah which you can't see) being on, it isn't powered up! Wanted to test one of my Nano BECs that I plan to use on the 3D Printed Nano Wings, and this gave me a good opportunity,
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Wind/wet Weather..... >bah<
Guess I'll work on NG #4 that I picked up used. Needs a small bit of glue work in the tail area, and have the FT Aura5 that was previously in NG#2. Setting up with a XR2 2.4Ghz ELRS nano RX.
Primarily for LOS flying, but it has an AIO analog FPV setup in it if I want to do that.
Dug in a little deeper and found a problem waiting to happen. The motor wires were barely hanging on. Got the bottom rear spar out and it will be easier to reglue the motor area with the motor removed.
EDIT: Put new pins on the motor connection so it is easy to install/remove motor without using a soldering Iron. Tested the motor at full tilt on 3S and the 1408 4000kv motor and wires were generating "some" heat.... Probably not rated for the 4.5"x4.1x2 prop it has on it. It will be fine for "short" bursts.
Guess I'll work on NG #4 that I picked up used. Needs a small bit of glue work in the tail area, and have the FT Aura5 that was previously in NG#2. Setting up with a XR2 2.4Ghz ELRS nano RX.
Primarily for LOS flying, but it has an AIO analog FPV setup in it if I want to do that.
Dug in a little deeper and found a problem waiting to happen. The motor wires were barely hanging on. Got the bottom rear spar out and it will be easier to reglue the motor area with the motor removed.
EDIT: Put new pins on the motor connection so it is easy to install/remove motor without using a soldering Iron. Tested the motor at full tilt on 3S and the 1408 4000kv motor and wires were generating "some" heat.... Probably not rated for the 4.5"x4.1x2 prop it has on it.
It will be fine for "short" bursts.
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