Lucky ACE - N4RF Thread

FPVology

Member
i was just looking through the mountain model site and came across the lucky ace. then hopped over here and saw this thread!
hope you get the time to get back to it. good luck!
 

N4RF

Member
Step 4 Finally Complete with step 5.

I've been ichin' to get back into this and it's a crappy day out so I thought I'd pull it out again and plow into it.

Like someone else this year, this is my first balsa build so it will probably go slower than the rest of you all.

When I put it down last winter I was waiting for a part from MM that did come in. It's allowed me to finish step 4 and get rolling again, albeit 3 days early for this year's winter build - or six months late for last year's.

The step call for putting together the battery hatch using the three braces and two doublers. Step five has you gluing in the magnet.
4_step_four_complete_uXKcO.jpg
 

N4RF

Member
Steps 6 through 9

These steps have you putting the initial formers into the center crutch of the fuselage.

Step six was a little confusing in that they refer you to the plan which clearly show putting a magnet in the center former after constructing it. There's only one magnet included in the kit (confirmed on the parts list) and it went into the hatch. It's not a huge deal since I can add one later (it will be easy to get to but I'm wondering if I misinterpreted something.

Six
6_step_6.jpg

7-9
7_8_9_steps_7_8_9.jpg
 

N4RF

Member
Steps 10 and 11

Steps 10 and 11 have you applying the inside sides to the fuselage and the gluing the extenders to the outside side.

Step 10
10_step_10.jpg

Step 11
11_step_11.jpg
 

N4RF

Member
Steps 12 through 16 - It's beginning to look like a Fuselage

In this group of steps the sides are applied and the gear mounts are constructed and applied. This gear step - Step 13 - was somewhat frustrating (a large cuss factor here) since the fittings were really tight and the base of one broke while trying to dry fit it. I know - if it doesn't fit - don't force it - but I did and was able to fix it (a little CA goes a long way ;)). I made sure I sanded the other one slightly prior to fitting it. They all when in okay after that.

There are also a couple of toppers in the front that are clearly shown on on the instructions going in at this point but are not specifically listed in the text of the instructions. I have two versions of the instructions - one I down loaded and one I got with the kit and neither mention these pieces. I added them and am moving forward.

Step 12
12_step_12.jpg

Step 13
13_step_13.jpg
13b_step_13b.jpg

Step 14
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Step 15
15_step_15.jpg
15b_step_15b.jpg

Step 16
16_step_16.jpg
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
You're bringing back memories of my building my Lucky ACE! Looking good, I hope to see it finished with this year's Build Along, but if not, there is always next year! :)
 

N4RF

Member
Steps 17 through 22 - Finishing the Fuselage

I know I still have the wings to do as well as the horizontal and vertical portions at the tail but, man, does this feel like an accomplishment. Even with the mistakes.

Step 17 - Basically fitting all the formers of the fuselage into the sides but not gluing them. At this point - and in the Christmas spirit - I kept singing to myself "It's beginning to look a lot like a fueslage". Now that I got that song stuck in your head.....
step_17.jpg

Step 18 - Attaching and gluing the bottom. This turned out much harder than I imagined it would in terms of keeping everything lined up so I did the first two sections separately (makes sense) and then the back in small sections to keep it lined up.
step_18.jpg

Steps 19 through 22 - This involves setting the pushrod housings through the holes in the fuselage, tacking them in place and then making sure all joints are glued.

I screwed up a little here and should have slowed down maybe but when all was done I couldn't figure out why they had places for servos in both the middle of the aircraft and the back. There wasn't anything in the instructions about the difference but it was clear in the laid out plans that you only need the middle placings (and the pushrod housings) if you're using the steerable nose wheel. No biggie since I can trim them down and ultimately hide them.

step_19.jpg

step_22.jpg

Next up--- The Wings
 

Turbojoe

Elite member
Looking good! Only suggestion I can make from here on is to beef up the fragile tail feathers with at least some cross bracing. As long as there are no impacts they're fine though. I lost my ACE due to having to slam on the brakes for an idiot that pulled out in front of me. I thought I heard a crunch in the back of the car but unfortunately didn't check ALL of the planes. After the crash I realized the ACE was the source of the crunch sound. The H-stab/elevator departed in flight. The only total write off crash I've ever had it as it went in from high altitude.

I finally bought another ACE kit but it's in the save forever stash. I don't like those 3D style tail feathers on the ACE or the EVA. I grafted modified SwitchBack tail feathers onto my EVA Bipe fuse. Much stronger and personally I think they look much better. If I score yet another ACE kit I'll build it with modified SwitchBack feathers as well. Just a personal preference.

Joe
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
My ACE has spent a lot of time in the air and had a few "questionable" landings in the past, but the tail has held up quite well in the stock form. I used a different tailwheel that gave it a little more spring and didn't put any pressure on the rudder, maybe that helped.

I'll agree that the instructions are a bit confusing regarding the servo locations and options. I ended up with the elevator and rudder servo at the tail, but should have placed them forward at the wing as I did a tail-dragger. Next time...!
 

N4RF

Member
Wing and tail feathers done

Was able to complete the wing and tail sections over the past few days after having it sit for about a month. It's coming together although fitting in all the pieces to the wing required a few non-pediatric words. There were a couple of mistakes but I think I recovered somewhat with what I hope to be only slight flying adjustments.

I hope to tackle the last remaining structural issue tomorrow - the ailerons - and begin final assembly soon.

My hope is to use the power pack B set up with a 1300 MAmp 3 cell battery. It's what I used on the dearly departed Mini Ultra stick which appears to be similar in weight and dimensions.

wing and tail__1513120338_69.143.210.77.jpg

The wing appears to be curved slightly on the back end but does sit flush with the table so I think it's a function of the picture, not the actual wing.
 

Turbojoe

Elite member
If the trailing edge is flush with a flat surface then you're good to go. My only words of wisdumb are to protect those tail feathers. AND overpower her until she bleeds. 200 watts per pound minimum! I sure miss mine and the spare kit won't be built until after my 6 year old grandson has successfully maidened whatever I can get him to successfully maiden. :D Right now I'm willing to sacrifice a Bixler 2.

Joe
 

N4RF

Member
Sanding and Covering

I finished the ailerons last week and am at the point where I need to sand and cover the skeleton.

I purchased three rolls of SoLite from MM when I bought the airplane but didn't see any instructions in the box (I have not opened the rolls yet).

I came across this on you tube which is a little old but seems to explain it pretty well. I don't recall a specific temp for the iron, though

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M5ROBx3nzgw

I was hoping to get some buy in before diving in.

I still have the pieces that I punched out the parts from and was going to practice on a couple of strips prior to doing the actual airplane which seemed prudent.
 

rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
The video looks good - definitely do a couple practice strips with the left over balsa sprues. Someone also told me that they dust the stick side of the solite with talcum powder right after they peel it to prevent it from sticking to itself, but I haven't personally tested that. Also, using scotch tape to pull apart the solite and the backing is the only way to stay sane while using it :)
 

Turbojoe

Elite member
Yep. Best to test and use the method that you're most comfortable with. I prefer a hot iron and work fast when tacking it down. I always use a sock on the iron too. I like to use a heat gun for final shrinking but an iron will work just as well.

Baby powder is a God send for working with Solite. I shake some on the adhesive side then smear it around with my fingers. Once it's well coated I wipe it off with a terry towel. It won't stick to itself but it doesn't affect the adhesion one bit when heated. My almost 18 year old MM SwitchBack was covered this way and it's still stuck on there. I Read about this method on RC Groups. I'm pretty sure it was Martin Hunter AKA Dreamer that came up with this idea. He was the Mountain Models and covering guru way back then.

Joe
 

N4RF

Member
Covering is on

The project's sat for a while but I've finally gotten the covering on. As you can tell, I had some issues with the transition from one color to another but the single color pieces actually turned out pretty good for a first try.

I did use a pretty hot iron and I want to thank my 4-year old granddaughter for lending me one of her socks. Worked great. There's some splotchyness in the pictures but that's mainly glare from the lights.

Once tacked on, i spent some time just running the iron over the covering and it shrank up and tightened up pretty nice. I thought I was going to have to go out to a second-hand store and buy a hair dryer but think I can do without it at this point.

Top View
covering_top.jpg

Bottom View
covering_bottom.jpg