Help! Master series design help thread

Whit Armstrong

Elite member
@Whit Armstrong , amen to that, I work on a Mac and have to use a Parallel's system for Inventor. Luckily AutoCAD is available for Mac so that's a relief for making plans. Does Fusion to unfolding?

Thanks! Currently working on a P51B/C, 29" span. :)
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Oh, I didn't know there was something like that available. I guess I didn't look into it much because I already had what I needed. "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"!
 

Bo123

Elite member
Help!! I am scratchbuilding my own design master series plane and I need a piece for the nose skin. It is the very front curvy piece that creates the smoother nose. It is a hawker sea fury. I can supply the dimensions if someone helps make the shape.
The piece it is attaching to is about 11.5 cm in diameter and the size it needs to fold down to is about 7cm in diameter. It needs to be about 4cm long. Thanks for the help.
 

The Fopster

Master member
Help!! I am scratchbuilding my own design master series plane and I need a piece for the nose skin. It is the very front curvy piece that creates the smoother nose. It is a hawker sea fury. I can supply the dimensions if someone helps make the shape.
The piece it is attaching to is about 11.5 cm in diameter and the size it needs to fold down to is about 7cm in diameter. It needs to be about 4cm long. Thanks for the help.
I use this to work out the shape:
https://craig-russell.co.uk/demos/cone_calculator/
 

smiling albert

Active member
Sorry to but in again but need advice on my 24.5 inch 109
Have reduced the number of skins but is that cockpit/tail piece in the first picture formable out of foam or is the second one better?
Thanks
 

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Whit Armstrong

Elite member
Sorry to but in again but need advice on my 24.5 inch 109
Have reduced the number of skins but is that cockpit/tail piece in the first picture formable out of foam or is the second one better?
Thanks

I'd say the second one is better, but here are a few edits I'd make:
It could use a couple more skins in the nose section
Make sure not to make the spinner out of skins; that first skin should be a little shorter
Do away with the 5th skin, you can extend the 4th skin back to the 6th
Extend the last skin back until the rudder hinge line
 

smiling albert

Active member
Ok
How's this.
Decided not to split front skin into 2 thinner strips as its only 19 mm wide so wouldn't I be able to curl /form that without splitting?
Also 2 more questions
1. At the moment my wing has no angle of incidence-ie the bottom surface is parallel to horizontal.
How many degrees would people say I needed to tilt it up?
2.I am undecided whether to join the sections together using John Overstreets method of aligning notches or to have a central piece of foam which incorporates the tail and extends nearly to the front-see third picture from one of nerdnics designs.It would stop short of the front 2 skins so as to allow the power pod to fit in there.
I favour the second option because for slightly more weight it gives extra strength between sections and means I can hang my formers on it so everything(formers ,wings) lines up easily and I can use it to glue the rear v and h stab servos to it ,somewhere near the cockpit area.
Any thoughts anyone?
Thanks
 

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Whit Armstrong

Elite member
Ok
How's this.
Decided not to split front skin into 2 thinner strips as its only 19 mm wide so wouldn't I be able to curl /form that without splitting?
Also 2 more questions
1. At the moment my wing has no angle of incidence-ie the bottom surface is parallel to horizontal.
How many degrees would people say I needed to tilt it up?
2.I am undecided whether to join the sections together using John Overstreets method of aligning notches or to have a central piece of foam which incorporates the tail and extends nearly to the front-see third picture from one of nerdnics designs.It would stop short of the front 2 skins so as to allow the power pod to fit in there.
I favour the second option because for slightly more weight it gives extra strength between sections and means I can hang my formers on it so everything(formers ,wings) lines up easily and I can use it to glue the rear v and h stab servos to it ,somewhere near the cockpit area.
Any thoughts anyone?
Thanks
Good idea. One tip though is when you are building, make the skins first, and then attach them to the plane. It makes everything smoother and line up better on the outside.
 

noahangel11

Elite member
Has anyone figured out a way in Fi\usion 360 to flatten skins? I have tried exact flat plugin with little success.I can mace calendars and conicals in sheet metal and flat those. But flattening an undevolable surface is tricky.
 

Piotrsko

Legendary member
Ok
How's this.
Decided not to split front skin into 2 thinner strips as its only 19 mm wide so wouldn't I be able to curl /form that without splitting?
Also 2 more questions
1. At the moment my wing has no angle of incidence-ie the bottom surface is parallel to horizontal.
How many degrees would people say I needed to tilt it up?
Any thoughts anyone?
Thanks
Rule of my thumb
Figure at least 2 degrees if it's flatbottom, 1degree if semi symmetrical with tapered nose, zero if it's symmetrical. Depends on placement and size of horiz stab.
 

Ryan O.

Out of Foam Board!
I would suggest just drawing plans for the bottom of the wing, and then lengthening the root chord by ~1.5 inches, try to make it a little bigger than necessary, it doesn't matter if it's bigger but it wouldn't work if it was smaller. There's no need for complex math if you can just eyeball it! Right?? anybody? *crickets chirping*

Yeah, anyway, just lengthen the root chord, and don't do anything to the tip. It will automatically compensate for the thinning of the wing. You can import the plans into Inkscape and see how they are, and try to copy them. I generally like to reuse the spars and slots/tabs from the plans, as they're all the same across the MS builds.
when you extend the chord, do you do it equally to the leading and trailing edge, or just extend the trailing edge? Thanks
 

Whit Armstrong

Elite member
I just got access to Illustrator, which runs much better on my computer than Inkscape, and spent the afternoon creating these templates for parts of plans. They can be dragged and dropped onto the outlines of your parts. They'll save a ton of time!

Screen Shot 2021-09-09 at 7.52.43 PM.png
 

smiling albert

Active member
Found these clips which shows Printing directly from fusion 360 is possible,but the object has to be solid so if it’s a sketch I thicken it first using the push pull tool.
Still not figured out the printing multiple pages bit but if you want to check progress of a design I think it’s good.