Minwax Your Plane

sundragon

New member
Some people have said that they've had trouble hot gluing to minwax treated FB. I haven't had that problem, it's worked fine for me. I almost always build the plane and then apply the minwax - apply with a brush, watch it penetrate the paper and then wipe off the excess with paper towels. I do the FT method of making hinges so don't do tape hinges but where I use tape for reinforcement or trim I haven't had any problem with it coming loose.
I have had one unusual problem. I minwaxed a plane and then didn't get back to it for a couple of months. When I put filler on to smooth some seams it immediately delaminated the paper. I applied another coat of minwax, waited a day and used filler again with no problem. Go figure.
Thank you, this is useful information! I'm new to building with foam so I'm trying to learn as much before starting the assembly.

I figure it's easier to Minwax the flat board then assemble vs dealing with multiple angles of a built plane. Why do you build first then apply if the Minwax doesn't affect the hot glue? Is it just preference?

Do you tape after you've painted or before? I figure the tape will prevent paint from sticking.
 

Mr NCT

Site Moderator
Thank you, this is useful information! I'm new to building with foam so I'm trying to learn as much before starting the assembly.

I figure it's easier to Minwax the flat board then assemble vs dealing with multiple angles of a built plane. Why do you build first then apply if the Minwax doesn't affect the hot glue? Is it just preference?

Do you tape after you've painted or before? I figure the tape will prevent paint from sticking.
The only planes I minwax before assembly are bi & tri planes because of the tight space between wings. I still do the subassemblies and minwax them. I guess I do it after assembly out of habit/superstition. I can see three advantages to it doing after - first it does add some weight so there's no need to do both sides, second it avoids any bowing on a flat sheet as it dries though I've never experimented to see how bad that might be and third it fills any little gaps from construction. I think the main reason is habit. insert rofl (wish the emojis were working)

I tape during construction and then scuff it with fine sand paper. Haven't had a problem with paint lifting but I do use delicate surface masking tape when I'm doing trim etc.

You might find this helpful plus there are lots of posts and opinions about painting
 

sundragon

New member
The only planes I minwax before assembly are bi & tri planes because of the tight space between wings. I still do the subassemblies and minwax them. I guess I do it after assembly out of habit/superstition. I can see three advantages to it doing after - first it does add some weight so there's no need to do both sides, second it avoids any bowing on a flat sheet as it dries though I've never experimented to see how bad that might be and third it fills any little gaps from construction. I think the main reason is habit. insert rofl (wish the emojis were working)

I tape during construction and then scuff it with fine sand paper. Haven't had a problem with paint lifting but I do use delicate surface masking tape when I'm doing trim etc.

You might find this helpful plus there are lots of posts and opinions about painting
Thank you so much for taking the time to explain like I'm 5 :) That makes a lot more sense. I watched a 9 year old Youtube from Flite Test on Painting Foam Board (Chad Kapper) and it was super useful = from prep, to airbrushing etc. The first montage shows him slathering on the Minwax to a speed build sheet and then the there are HUGE disclaimers about how the glue won't stick if you do that, haha.
I appreciate the nuance - especially the bowing and less excess weight because we're applying it to the outside only.
 

Inq

Elite member
I've heard the disclaimer about hot glue not sticking to minwaxed DTFB but I haven't had a problem.

I've had things fall off... just heading to the field. Glad it happened then versus flying. :)

... but that was with Walmart brand hot-glue. I now use the Gorilla hot-glue sticks because the other was cooling before I could get things stuck down. I haven't had any trouble with GG, but I've also been very good about roughing up the surface with sandpaper also.
 

sundragon

New member
I've had things fall off... just heading to the field. Glad it happened then versus flying. :)

... but that was with Walmart brand hot-glue. I now use the Gorilla hot-glue sticks because the other was cooling before I could get things stuck down. I haven't had any trouble with GG, but I've also been very good about roughing up the surface with sandpaper also.
Thank you for that info. I can see myself hand launching the plane and the wings fall off :D Haha
I've got GG glue and Surebonder after seeing Project Farm do a test on the best hot glue.
 

Inq

Elite member
Thank you for that info. I can see myself hand launching the plane and the wings fall off :D Haha
I've got GG glue and Surebonder after seeing Project Farm do a test on the best hot glue.
I re-read my last post and I sound like a GG salesman. I need to clarify a couple of things. I had two separate problems.
  1. The things falling off only happened once when I failed to scuff up the Minwax oil-based polyurethane and tried to hot glue some ABS plastic pieces on. They simply fell off. Also failing to roughen up the poly before painting, even the Krylon ColorMax paint/primer flakes off the poly. I used some sandpaper to roughen up the poly and the ABS had no problem with the Walmart hot-glue.
  2. But I did have a lot of trouble with the Walmart glue cooling too quickly. On the FT Storch wings I'm suppose to run, I think, 4 or 5 - 30" beads of glue before folding it over and pressing. I might can do one 30" bead and bend/press together before it cools... but never 3 that long. The Gorilla Glue Hot Stick was the only other brand they had and it does have a lot longer prep time than the Walmart brand. On a second Storch wing I simply decided to use regular liquid Gorilla Glue. It needs 24 hours to setup but it certainly allows me to be sure everything is glued properly and it seems marginally lighter than the hot glue.
 

sundragon

New member
I re-read my last post and I sound like a GG salesman. I need to clarify a couple of things. I had two separate problems.
  1. The things falling off only happened once when I failed to scuff up the Minwax oil-based polyurethane and tried to hot glue some ABS plastic pieces on. They simply fell off. Also failing to roughen up the poly before painting, even the Krylon ColorMax paint/primer flakes off the poly. I used some sandpaper to roughen up the poly and the ABS had no problem with the Walmart hot-glue.
  2. But I did have a lot of trouble with the Walmart glue cooling too quickly. On the FT Storch wings I'm suppose to run, I think, 4 or 5 - 30" beads of glue before folding it over and pressing. I might can do one 30" bead and bend/press together before it cools... but never 3 that long. The Gorilla Glue Hot Stick was the only other brand they had and it does have a lot longer prep time than the Walmart brand. On a second Storch wing I simply decided to use regular liquid Gorilla Glue. It needs 24 hours to setup but it certainly allows me to be sure everything is glued properly and it seems marginally lighter than the hot glue.
I appreciate the details. will remember to sand parts that have minwax on them. I am leaning to do minwax the plane when built or at least when the subs are built.

How do people keep the minwax from gumming up exposed servos - like the ones in the wing?