Monster sized Fock-Wulf FW-42
- Thread starter rockyboy
- Start date
Thanks @FoamyDM 
So I tried to put on the gray camo "graffiti style" with just a hand held stencil and spray can to get soft edges and not spend the next two days masking things off and hating the hard edges it makes.
It seemed to be going ok so I kept on spraying that side...
Less excited about how the wing pattern turned out, but waiting on another can of white coming in the mail to fix it.
So to keep procrastinating on the nacelle, instead I mounted the 3 capacitors to the esc and am ready to install it and the motor after dinner. The pic is pre-solder and insulating. I'm wrapping the capacitor leads around the power wires similar to other examples I've seen on the other forum.
So I tried to put on the gray camo "graffiti style" with just a hand held stencil and spray can to get soft edges and not spend the next two days masking things off and hating the hard edges it makes.
It seemed to be going ok so I kept on spraying that side...
Less excited about how the wing pattern turned out, but waiting on another can of white coming in the mail to fix it.
So to keep procrastinating on the nacelle, instead I mounted the 3 capacitors to the esc and am ready to install it and the motor after dinner. The pic is pre-solder and insulating. I'm wrapping the capacitor leads around the power wires similar to other examples I've seen on the other forum.
jaredstrees
Well-known member
I think it's looking great! If I had tried to spray like that the whole plane would've been gray.
What is this supposed to do again? why the extra capacitance?
It boils down to "if you extend the ESC battery leads too much over the stock length, you can get a nasty voltage surge condition that will blow up your ESC (this is why there are capacitors on the end of the ESC where the power leads come into it). Castle Creations sells a pre-made capacitor pack to help with this, but I prefer to roll my own
Yes, I could put the ESC's in the fuselage and extend the motor leads instead, but I want to use the airflow in the nacelles for cooling and I already have wiring in the wing to try it this way.
There was some deeper discussion about this earlier in the thread too where some people much smarter than me chimed in with more of the theory side of things...
https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?threads/monster-sized-fock-wulf-fw-42.37085/post-432320
kilroy07
Legendary member
And I've learned my "new thing" for today! Now I can relax.
Seriously awesome build Rockyboy!
Someday... I'll try a glassed foam build, but it's not going to be for awhile, and you make it look easy!
Kudos for such a detailed build log, lots of knowledge shared here. Noobs (like myself) appreciate that.
SlingShot
Maneuvering With Purpose
Do you think you will bunny hop it at first? Or just go for it on the maiden?
First some fast taxi action to see if I blow up the motors and make sure the landing gear stays on. Not sure if the runway at the maiden field is long enough to bunny hop so it might go to a three laps around the circuit maiden next.
And I'm happy to say the right side power train is installed and tested just fine with the 24" power leads on the bench with no load...
So time to cut out the nacelle top covers and start painting them...
And it only took a few more minutes to mask and paint on the windows.
Windows also make the joint at the front of the access cover look a whole lot better too
PsyBorg
Wake up! Time to fly!
I just looked at your cap arrangement. Are the legs on them in shrink tubing?
If not may I suggest using liquid tape. With all the bouncing they will be subjected to they will not stay like that for ever and may get close enough across the poles to arc.
In which case you could name them snap crackle and pop and hope for no fire on caps that size.
On the bright side the paint scheme looks great.
I meant to ask before. Do them shocks compress at all sitting static? Also have you bounce tested them to see how they handle the weight yet?
If not may I suggest using liquid tape. With all the bouncing they will be subjected to they will not stay like that for ever and may get close enough across the poles to arc.
In which case you could name them snap crackle and pop and hope for no fire on caps that size.
On the bright side the paint scheme looks great.
I meant to ask before. Do them shocks compress at all sitting static? Also have you bounce tested them to see how they handle the weight yet?
Looking great! Will we be seeing her tonight at the club meeting?
I like PsyBorg's liquid tape idea if you haven't already covered those leads (But I suspect you have... I know with that picture you mentioned you hadn't soldered anything yet).
I like PsyBorg's liquid tape idea if you haven't already covered those leads (But I suspect you have... I know with that picture you mentioned you hadn't soldered anything yet).
Thanks guys!
Yeah, great idea on the liquid tape @PsyBorg . At 6s voltage across those puppies, I suspect they would explode quite nicely I'll be pulling that esc back out and giving it a brush before re-wrapping with electrical tape - I don't have any shrink tubing that tiny.
The shocks compress... a lot. I've been adjusting the springs tension up and am about 1/4 of the total adjustment level, but I need to do some more. When the outer wing panels went on with the wheels for the first time, the shocks bottomed out
I'm thinking to pass on bringing her to the club meeting today. That room at Monster Mini Golf we're using isn't that large, and the wife has the car I'll be transporting her in today - and probably won't be home in time to switch vehicles and get me to the meeting. So I'm going small for the show and tell and bringing the FrSky X-Lite transmitter and a Tiny Whoop instead Maybe I'll toss a picture of the FW-42 into the presentation though...
Yeah, great idea on the liquid tape @PsyBorg . At 6s voltage across those puppies, I suspect they would explode quite nicely
I'll be pulling that esc back out and giving it a brush before re-wrapping with electrical tape - I don't have any shrink tubing that tiny.The shocks compress... a lot. I've been adjusting the springs tension up and am about 1/4 of the total adjustment level, but I need to do some more. When the outer wing panels went on with the wheels for the first time, the shocks bottomed out
I'm thinking to pass on bringing her to the club meeting today. That room at Monster Mini Golf we're using isn't that large, and the wife has the car I'll be transporting her in today - and probably won't be home in time to switch vehicles and get me to the meeting. So I'm going small for the show and tell and bringing the FrSky X-Lite transmitter and a Tiny Whoop instead
Maybe I'll toss a picture of the FW-42 into the presentation though...
Grifflyer
WWII fanatic
or just bring an outer wing panel to make everybody droolThanks guys!
Yeah, great idea on the liquid tape @PsyBorg . At 6s voltage across those puppies, I suspect they would explode quite nicely
The shocks compress... a lot. I've been adjusting the springs tension up and am about 1/4 of the total adjustment level, but I need to do some more. When the outer wing panels went on with the wheels for the first time, the shocks bottomed out
I'm thinking to pass on bringing her to the club meeting today. That room at Monster Mini Golf we're using isn't that large, and the wife has the car I'll be transporting her in today - and probably won't be home in time to switch vehicles and get me to the meeting. So I'm going small for the show and tell and bringing the FrSky X-Lite transmitter and a Tiny Whoop instead
PsyBorg
Wake up! Time to fly!
There are heavier springs available as well as thicker oiks that can be used in those shocks Jon. If I remember correctly they were stock from the original buggy before I frankensteined it into a monster buggy.
Amain will have both stiffer springs and various shock oils if needed.
Amain will have both stiffer springs and various shock oils if needed.
Good to know! I'll be picking your brain for help on that for sure - I've noticed as I crank up the adjustment on the springs it reduces the travel span. It might be best to move to a heavier spring instead of pre-load the current one so much. But I'll be able to tell more on that once I get her fully loaded.
I'm also getting inspired by @wilmracer very cool B-17 landing gear aluminum machine work, and thinking if I do need to take these apart to change springs, I'll work on fabricating an easier to service blocking / bracing setup. The heavy gauge music wire bent in a square is in the "probably will work but seems a little sketchy" category - and should handle a few flights - but if she's going to be a long term addition to the hanger I think I can do better
With the club meeting last night I only made a little progress - soldered and liquid taped the 2nd capacitor pack and esc and installed the second nacelle power train. Still need to pull out the first one to apply liquid tape.
PsyBorg
Wake up! Time to fly!
It needs eye balls now...
As for the gear I kind of thought that would be prone to twisting once you went dual wheel.
I think if you could do similar mechanism as Karls using those shocks you would be golden providing there is some way to prevent twisting on the dualies.
As for the gear I kind of thought that would be prone to twisting once you went dual wheel.
I think if you could do similar mechanism as Karls using those shocks you would be golden providing there is some way to prevent twisting on the dualies.
You're not wrong on the gear assessment. If she flys well on the maiden I might spend more time redesigning and rebuilding the gear.
In the meantime, after three coats of primer and sanding still left the nacelle covers with a distinct plywood grain, I gave up and did a 3/4 oz fiberglass and WBPU coating so the finish quality will match.
Gluing in some bracing for the nose gear servo...
And gluing in the servo tray (ignore the square switch hole - it's a piece from the scrap bin.
And I got a couple sheets of inkjet water slide decal paper to do logos for the tail insignia The instructions had me spray it with clear acrylic after printing, so it's drying on a board now...
In the meantime, after three coats of primer and sanding still left the nacelle covers with a distinct plywood grain, I gave up and did a 3/4 oz fiberglass and WBPU coating so the finish quality will match.
Gluing in some bracing for the nose gear servo...
And gluing in the servo tray (ignore the square switch hole - it's a piece from the scrap bin.
And I got a couple sheets of inkjet water slide decal paper to do logos for the tail insignia
The instructions had me spray it with clear acrylic after printing, so it's drying on a board now...
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Looking good! On those waterslide decals... did your camera mirror the image or are they printed that way? I'm pretty sure if they are like the ones I've used you print normally, seal the outside with clear coat or decal sealer, and then soak them to remove the backing and then apply. If that's the case then then I think these would be mirrored
Love the insignia!
Love the insignia!
Looking good! On those waterslide decals... did your camera mirror the image or are they printed that way? I'm pretty sure if they are like the ones I've used you print normally, seal the outside with clear coat or decal sealer, and then soak them to remove the backing and then apply. If that's the case then then I think these would be mirrored
Love the insignia!
The instructions on this waterslide paper has the decal being soaked, and then placed printed side down on the final surface, and then peeling up the paper leaving the printed decal. It seemed a bit strange, but I did find youtube videos from the company showing the process working this way. So with luck it will work out right
