MS Bf-110 build & plans

The Hangar

Fly harder!
Mentor
I'm going to be flying mine with 10"props. I kinda wanna try a 4s 2200 on this if it's not too heavy. Other wise Im going with a 1300 3s
4s 2200 won’t be too heavy at all. Ft recommends a 3300 4s for the p-38 and the bf-110 is a similar size.
 

JakeTheSloth

Active member
Hi there, can I suggest something? If these plans are designed for scratchbuilding and not some CNC machine I think it'd be smart to get rid off parts that are doubled - one wing, one nacelle parts etc. since we can use the same template and just mirror it. This way we'll have much less paper to print out. Another thing - it's good to have all size plans - this way you can print it on home printer via Adobe Acrobat reader printing menu as poster
 

Timmy

Legendary member
Hi there, can I suggest something? If these plans are designed for scratchbuilding and not some CNC machine I think it'd be smart to get rid off parts that are doubled - one wing, one nacelle parts etc. since we can use the same template and just mirror it. This way we'll have much less paper to print out. Another thing - it's good to have all size plans - this way you can print it on home printer via Adobe Acrobat reader printing menu as poster
I like having double parts because then I know exactly how much space all the parts are going to take up on my sheets of foam when I lay them out. But your point is valid too. (y)
 

Whit Armstrong

Elite member
Hi there, can I suggest something? If these plans are designed for scratchbuilding and not some CNC machine I think it'd be smart to get rid off parts that are doubled - one wing, one nacelle parts etc. since we can use the same template and just mirror it. This way we'll have much less paper to print out. Another thing - it's good to have all size plans - this way you can print it on home printer via Adobe Acrobat reader printing menu as poster
I like having double parts because then I know exactly how much space all the parts are going to take up on my sheets of foam when I lay them out. But your point is valid too. (y)

I like having them that way because I'd probably forget to make the double parts! :LOL: also, the nacelle parts actually differ between nacelles, because of wing thickness and dihedral. That's why it says to only peel the paper off that side - otherwise it wouldn't fit. it's the same for cutting out from the same template. I just find it helps me organize, and I also won't get surprised and need to get more foam!

Feel free to only print some parts, but just be aware that some look similar, but aren't actually duplicates.
 

JakeTheSloth

Active member
I presume that nacelles and wings are not exactly same, but mirrored, so still - you can use same templates again. That's just my suggestion, if you won't do it I'll modify the plans on my own. I prefer printing and gluing 15 A4 sheets instead of 30 :p I did so with simple Storch, 30 sheets down to 14. Just got rid off unnecessary stuff, like 90° gauge, power pod (since I don't use power pods), doubled/mirrored parts etc.
 

Whit Armstrong

Elite member
I presume that nacelles and wings are not exactly same, but mirrored, so still - you can use same templates again. That's just my suggestion, if you won't do it I'll modify the plans on my own. I prefer printing and gluing 15 A4 sheets instead of 30 :p I did so with simple Storch, 30 sheets down to 14. Just got rid off unnecessary stuff, like 90° gauge, power pod (since I don't use power pods), doubled/mirrored parts etc.

Sure, just print only the sheet you want. I just left it in for simplicity and also so that you could cnc cut it.
 

CrshNBrn

Elite member
I've started. Thank you for the time, energy, and attention to develop the plans- the pieces look great coming out of the foamboard. I can take/share pictures along the way if it would be helpful...and I'll probably have a question or two as well!
 

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Whit Armstrong

Elite member
I've started. Thank you for the time, energy, and attention to develop the plans- the pieces look great coming out of the foamboard. I can take/share pictures along the way if it would be helpful...and I'll probably have a question or two as well!

Awesome! Let me know if you need any help regarding the build. I haven't been able to make a build video yet, so just tell me and I'll make some pictures showing how to assemble that part.
 

CrshNBrn

Elite member
I'd be grateful if you had a picture of the internal structure to share, as the combination of backbones and formers has me scratching my head this morning. Also, I didn't see a Former #7 in the plans anywhere; could I have missed it?

I'm working through the wing now. It looks awesome. I did Gorilla Glue a longer balsa strip to my plywood spar, as I can only get plywood 24" long and wanted to make sure it was long enough. I had to bend both wooden spars quite a a bit to match the angle of the foam spars when I glued them.
 

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BoredGuy

Active member
I'd be grateful if you had a picture of the internal structure to share, as the combination of backbones and formers has me scratching my head this morning. Also, I didn't see a Former #7 in the plans anywhere; could I have missed it?

I'm working through the wing now. It looks awesome. I did Gorilla Glue a longer balsa strip to my plywood spar, as I can only get plywood 24" long and wanted to make sure it was long enough. I had to bend both wooden spars quite a a bit to match the angle of the foam spars when I glued them.
The f3d file has all the formers and backbones in it, I’m guessing. But you need to have fusion 360 to open it.
 

Whit Armstrong

Elite member
I'd be grateful if you had a picture of the internal structure to share, as the combination of backbones and formers has me scratching my head this morning. Also, I didn't see a Former #7 in the plans anywhere; could I have missed it?

I'm working through the wing now. It looks awesome. I did Gorilla Glue a longer balsa strip to my plywood spar, as I can only get plywood 24" long and wanted to make sure it was long enough. I had to bend both wooden spars quite a a bit to match the angle of the foam spars when I glued them.

For some reason, former 7 is labeled as skin 9.
Screen Shot 2021-02-15 at 10.38.07 AM.png

Glue the skins on to the formers first, then assemble it onto the fuselage box. this will ensure that he spacing is correct.
Screen Shot 2021-02-15 at 10.25.19 AM.png
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In the above picture, all of those parts are assembled separately. This is the nose that will act as the hatch, so do not glue it on to anything! You can assemble it attached to the fuselage box just to line everything up, but if you glue this piece on, you won't be able to access your battery!
Screen Shot 2021-02-15 at 10.41.13 AM.png

The wings have a pretty steep leading edge as per the balsa plans I was using, so make sure to form it a lot in that area.

Screen Shot 2021-02-15 at 10.27.40 AM.png

Beautiful! I'm glad to see that everything's fitting nicely.