Shadow74

Multi-rotor madman
i must admit all my esc's are turnigy plush from my trex 450 to my up coming tri build. I have one i think ripmax things and works ok but will only use this on my foam board planes i build with my boy. i am sure this will get a plush at some point. What about the other esc's from turnigy, are these any good?

I have only ever used the Turnigy Plush's from HK and the 20AX's from lazertoyz, so i am not real sure about any of the others. anyone else have any experience with other speed controls from Turnigy or other brands?

Eric
 

thefregu

Junior Member
Hi!

Nice tricopter build!

I have also been looking at Davids TriCopter v2.5 and am planning of building something similar for FPV flying.
I was just wondering if you use the Go Pro HD Hero 2 camera for FPV and how that is setup with the new mini-HDMI port?

/fregu
 

Shadow74

Multi-rotor madman
Hi!

Nice tricopter build!

I have also been looking at Davids TriCopter v2.5 and am planning of building something similar for FPV flying.
I was just wondering if you use the Go Pro HD Hero 2 camera for FPV and how that is setup with the new mini-HDMI port?

/fregu

Hey Fregu!

I was using my GoPro Hero 1 for fpv-ing, but I sold it and now have the 2......I have not hooked it up for fpv yet.

Does anyone else know if there is a difference? I am fairly certain that the mini HDMI port is for playback to a tv only, as I dont believe that there are any fpv systems out there that are transmitting HD. I could be wrong however. Anyone?

Eric
 

ananas1301

Crazy flyer/crasher :D
I can´t answer your question really but what I thought is going to happen is: The HDMI port will be somehow made available for live output by an upcoming firmware or something. At least lets hope so.
 

Shadow74

Multi-rotor madman
I have decided to resurrect my Tri-copter. :)

Tonight I started cutting out the new center sections. I will be ordering a new board on Monday (because the board that was in it is in my Quad currently)

2012-02-12_02-05-12_498.jpg

Stay tuned......should have the frame to this all put together in the next few days, as well as completing my Hexacopter frame. :)


Cheers!

Eric
 

Shadow74

Multi-rotor madman
Here is the new frame, gonna paint the center sections next. :)

gonna use David's nose wheel idea for my tail section this time around, because I think it will protect the servo better to have it away from point of impact in the case of a crash (another crash lol)

I was not gonna build another one at first, because when filming for my company I need a platform that can carry larger cameras, and be UBER stable.......however my tri-copter is going to be my FPV ship just to fly for fun/practice. They are very nimble and that is just really fun. I am not worried so much about fun when it comes to my filming platforms, but I just gotta have at least one that I can have a good time with.......right? :)


2012-02-12_23-06-21_654.jpg 2012-02-12_23-07-14_575.jpg


Cheers!


Eric
 
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ananas1301

Crazy flyer/crasher :D
Looking good!
Am I right if I say that you took exact 120° angles for the arms and therefore designed your own platform?!
David´s platform seems to have a narrower angle in the front and therefore a slightly bigger one between the two fronts and the rear arm!?
 

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
Hey, I designed the plans attached, based on David's amazing design, but I did some improvements. I sent them to David, but he hasn't replied yet :(

These are some improvements:
- 120º between arms
- CG point at axis intersection
- KKboard centered over CG point
- all screws more than 8 mm from edge of plate
- Design still foldable
- All screws 3mm
- Minimal changes to profile, still looks the same

I still need to add scale references, so it is more user-friendly, but that'll come soon!

So I'll attach them here. Check them out!

Main layout and comparison

tricopter-Model-colorex.pdf

Arm positions

tricopter-Model2-colorex.pdf
 

Attachments

  • tricopter-Model-colorex.pdf
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  • tricopter-Model2-colorex.pdf
    7.3 KB · Views: 264

Shadow74

Multi-rotor madman
Looking good!
Am I right if I say that you took exact 120° angles for the arms and therefore designed your own platform?!
David´s platform seems to have a narrower angle in the front and therefore a slightly bigger one between the two fronts and the rear arm!?


My tri-copter is based off of the idea of David's, in that I went to his website, skimmed through his build log, and looked at the pictures. After that I just sat down with a piece of graph paper and started sketching out my center sections, and made what I thought closely resembled what he had, but I didnt copy it exactly as far as his patterns or any measurements. I just learned from his ideas, and then just scratch built my own from the images. (i am not much for actually "reading" the instructions, unless it is a MUST. LOL)

As far as the angles of the arms, yes I did change that, to make them exact angles all the way around. I did this for three reasons:
1. the center of gravity becomes the point at which each of the arms' centerlines intersect in the center. (no guesswork when it comes to balancing)

2. Changing the angle of the front 2 arms, made it easier to get the props outta the video.

3. Changing the angle of the front 2 arms, gave it a little wider footprint, which stables up the roll cyclic. The farther away the motors are from the plane that they affect, the less touchy/sensitive it handles in flight. (if the front 2 arms were lets say, half their normal length, the fore and aft pitch would only be affected a little, but roll cyclic would increase in sensitivity incredibly.....basically the same as a the roll rate of a swept wing plane versus one with long straight wings.)

It is definitely a copy of David's idea, just not an exact replica. ;o)
 

Shadow74

Multi-rotor madman
Hey, I designed the plans attached, based on David's amazing design, but I did some improvements. I sent them to David, but he hasn't replied yet :(

These are some improvements:
- 120º between arms
- CG point at axis intersection
- KKboard centered over CG point
- all screws more than 8 mm from edge of plate
- Design still foldable
- All screws 3mm
- Minimal changes to profile, still looks the same

I still need to add scale references, so it is more user-friendly, but that'll come soon!

So I'll attach them here. Check them out!

Main layout and comparison

tricopter-Model-colorex.pdf

Arm positions

tricopter-Model2-colorex.pdf



hey Colorex! It seems we are thinking alike. I did the same things with mine when I built it. :)


- 120º between arms
- CG point at axis intersection
- KKboard centered over CG point
- Design still foldable
- All screws 3mm


great minds think alike.......and so do ours. ;o) LOL


Eric
 

ananas1301

Crazy flyer/crasher :D
haha yeah I guess we all kinda do :)
Thanks to colorex, I am currently building a new main frame with the design of colorex :)

My old one broke somehow and I don´t even know how and just noticed it suddenly.
 

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
haha yeah I guess we all kinda do :)
Thanks to colorex, I am currently building a new main frame with the design of colorex :)

tumblr_lwpylpBWHs1qbrb3z.png

Sorry, just had to. I'm happy that someone is using my plans :) I'll go ahead and make them user-friendly ASAP!

Oh, 23 hundred posts!
 

ananas1301

Crazy flyer/crasher :D
Here are two pictures how I ended up doing them.
There are two more very good things that came up when I was building mine together. Firstly I am now able to fly it as a T-Copter. Earlier with Davids frame you had to fold out one arm and then the other. you couldn´t fold them out together because they´d interfere within the platform. Now that is possible! Davids reason was at that time that the extra piece of wood being in the middle of the frame of each of the two front arms would give you more stability. I can´t see any differences in terms of stability so far so that is a big + on your desing André.

Secondly because the arms are a little shorter I was able to the cable boom inside the frame and no cables would stick out or be visible except the obvious ones on the arms. But that makes it look a little nicer so that was the second +

Also you can see my new camera mount. I kinda copied the idea of Depron. If you look at depron closely you can see that there are actually three layers, two thicker ones on each outer side and in the middle a less denser material. So the idea of a sandwich.
All my mounts up to now were done just by glueing two pieces of balsa on top of each other with CA. That was pretty tough already. 6mm thick balsa is very strong.

However the did break quite often... -.- So what I did is just use the frame material which is exatly 1,5mm thick and use that as the thicker outer layers around a 3mm piece of balsa. That would give me the same thickness as I had before with only the two 3mm balse plates on top of each other and hell yeah that is so rigid! I only jope that it doesn´t dampen enough of the vibration out of it. I still attached the mount like David did to the frame via a silicon tube.

Anyways let the pictures speek for themselfes: Btw. you can just see the two connectors coming out of the frame.
What ya think about the GoPro 2 quality of this pics? I had to resize them but that is kind of the quality with indoor lighting.
GOPR0038.JPG
GOPR0040.JPG
 

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
Here are two pictures how I ended up doing them.
There are two more very good things that came up when I was building mine together. Firstly I am now able to fly it as a T-Copter. Earlier with Davids frame you had to fold out one arm and then the other. you couldn´t fold them out together because they´d interfere within the platform. Now that is possible! Davids reason was at that time that the extra piece of wood being in the middle of the frame of each of the two front arms would give you more stability. I can´t see any differences in terms of stability so far so that is a big + on your desing André.

Secondly because the arms are a little shorter I was able to the cable boom inside the frame and no cables would stick out or be visible except the obvious ones on the arms. But that makes it look a little nicer so that was the second +

I didn't even realize that while designing it! You're awesome! I'll start up a thread soon!
 

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
The template has exactly 49.04 mm between the pivot screws, to use David's design for a T-copter you'd need to drill the hole at 20 mm.
 

ananas1301

Crazy flyer/crasher :D
I think it depends! You have two screws that belong to one arm. One screw goes through the arm and the other one is the limiting one when you fold it out. What I did this time is not take the inner one as the screw that goes through the wood. No I took the outer screw for the one that goes through the arm and the inner one (the one closer to the CG) as the limiting. I was playing around with it and thought that no stability was lost with this because you placed all the wholes for screw closer to the CG anyways. I hope you know what I mean.