New and improved E-motors?

Geronimo

Active member
I had a phone conversation with a friend earlier today and he talked about a new and improved E-motor he just got out of China. The link he sent me has some very impressive thrust numbers and duration times based on amp draw at a given thrust. The motor is called the SUNNYSKY X2216-III (or 2216 version 3). These motors get re-branded under several names. He said they've only been around since late last year.

Anyone know anything more about them? Or have any experience with them?
 

Headbang

Master member
There has not really been anything new in electric motors in years. Differences in motors come down to bearing, magnet, and wire quality. Example would be motrofly, buy from China and you get junk, buy from USA and you get a hand wound motor built with love. Of course there is a price difference.

Key to motors is not specs per say. Manufactures can say anything they want in the specs, it does not have to be true, and seldom is. Better solution is look at what others say is good based on experience of using the product. There is some ultra cheap motors out there that are complete gems, there is a lot of junk too. There are expensive motors that hands down are amazing, and there are expensive motors that fail and burn up quickly with wobbly bearings and snapped shafts.
 

dukw

New member
There has not really been anything new in electric motors in years. Differences in motors come down to bearing, magnet, and wire quality. Example would be motrofly, buy from China and you get junk, buy from USA and you get a hand wound motor built with love. Of course there is a price difference.

Key to motors is not specs per say. Manufactures can say anything they want in the specs, it does not have to be true, and seldom is. Better solution is look at what others say is good based on experience of using the product. There is some ultra cheap motors out there that are complete gems, there is a lot of junk too. There are expensive motors that hands down are amazing, and there are expensive motors that fail and burn up quickly with wobbly bearings and snapped shafts.

Who are the manufacturer’s of American Electric motors?. I didn’t know there were any
 

Headbang

Master member
http://www.subsonicplanes.com/site/...subsonicplanes.com/Motrolfly_Motors.html#2815

They have the licences to distribute motrofly motors. They take motrofly cans and staters, add their own magnets, bearings, and windings in the US. I have used their 4015, 4020, 4025, and 5335 motors extensively and for larger planes will only use them. Have also used smaller motors from them, I feel the ft radials are similar for C packs and smaller quality wise. Ft radials are much less expensive as well.
 

CustomRCMods

Elite member
I had a phone conversation with a friend earlier today and he talked about a new and improved E-motor he just got out of China. The link he sent me has some very impressive thrust numbers and duration times based on amp draw at a given thrust. The motor is called the SUNNYSKY X2216-III (or 2216 version 3). These motors get re-branded under several names. He said they've only been around since late last year. Anyone know anything more about them? Or have any experience with them?
I do, and have had excellent luck. My local supplier, BuddyRC, is one of the few distributors of SunnkySky USA products here in the USA and I have had about 10 SunnySky motors with no complaints. They are buttery smooth and have a quality build. (FYI SunnySky is a legit motor brand that has been around for a little bit, not to be confused with some of those cheapo amazon brands)

I’m running that mentioned X2216 (1250kv) on both my Bloody Baron and My FT Bushwacker, performing flawlessly. Plenty of power for “power pack c spec” airplanes. I also swear by the 2207s lineup on mini planes like the goblin, arrow, sparrow, vector, etc. Excellent, Excellent motors. Highly recommend!

BuddyRC has recently cut back on their lineup for some reason (maybe this Covid-19 mess) but the prices are great and the quality is outstanding.

Here’s a link to some videos I have shown these products off in:

Let me know if you have any further questions, I’ve got answers! Thanks @The Hangar for tagging me :).
 

The Hangar

Fly harder!
Mentor
I do, and have had excellent luck. My local supplier, BuddyRC, is one of the few distributors of SunnkySky USA products here in the USA and I have had about 10 SunnySky motors with no complaints. They are buttery smooth and have a quality build. (FYI SunnySky is a legit motor brand that has been around for a little bit, not to be confused with some of those cheapo amazon brands)

I’m running that mentioned X2216 (1250kv) on both my Bloody Baron and My FT Bushwacker, performing flawlessly. Plenty of power for “power pack c spec” airplanes. I also swear by the 2207s lineup on mini planes like the goblin, arrow, sparrow, vector, etc. Excellent, Excellent motors. Highly recommend!

BuddyRC has recently cut back on their lineup for some reason (maybe this Covid-19 mess) but the prices are great and the quality is outstanding.

Here’s a link to some videos I have shown these products off in:

Let me know if you have any further questions, I’ve got answers! Thanks @The Hangar for tagging me :).
No problem! I’ll have to pick up some of these motors for myself one of these days!
 

Geronimo

Active member
I do, and have had excellent luck. My local supplier, BuddyRC, is one of the few distributors of SunnkySky USA products here in the USA and I have had about 10 SunnySky motors with no complaints. They are buttery smooth and have a quality build. (FYI SunnySky is a legit motor brand that has been around for a little bit, not to be confused with some of those cheapo amazon brands)

Just to be clear, he was saying the version 3 motors are new as of November. Not the brand.

I’m running that mentioned X2216 (1250kv) on both my Bloody Baron and My FT Bushwacker, performing flawlessly. Plenty of power for “power pack c spec” airplanes. I also swear by the 2207s lineup on mini planes like the goblin, arrow, sparrow, vector, etc. Excellent, Excellent motors. Highly recommend!

Let me know if you have any further questions, I’ve got answers! Thanks @The Hangar for tagging me :).
Awesome, thanks! I think I'll try to get one and compare it to the C Pack motor I already have.
 

Geronimo

Active member
I do, and have had excellent luck. My local supplier, BuddyRC, is one of the few distributors of SunnkySky USA products here in the USA and I have had about 10 SunnySky motors with no complaints. They are buttery smooth and have a quality build. (FYI SunnySky is a legit motor brand that has been around for a little bit, not to be confused with some of those cheapo amazon brands)

I’m running that mentioned X2216 (1250kv) on both my Bloody Baron and My FT Bushwacker, performing flawlessly. Plenty of power for “power pack c spec” airplanes. I also swear by the 2207s lineup on mini planes like the goblin, arrow, sparrow, vector, etc. Excellent, Excellent motors. Highly recommend!

BuddyRC has recently cut back on their lineup for some reason (maybe this Covid-19 mess) but the prices are great and the quality is outstanding.
Let me know if you have any further questions, I’ve got answers! Thanks @The Hangar for tagging me :).
WOAH! Some FAST planes @The Hangar!!
 

TDL

Active member
I have Motrofly, Torque, Hyperion, Omega for my 3D planes, I have no problem paying over $100 a piece and another $100 for Phoenix ESC for planes that needs 500+w to perform. I had tried cheap alternative in the 46 to 50 range like E-max or Exceed, Aerodym, etc. the results were motors burned and planes crashed. However, after I learned how to properly prop my motor, I have not burned any sub 300w, cheap motors I got from eBay. Many of them I got for under $10, and they have been on in service for more than 10 years. Among these “Chinese junks”, some brands really stand out than others. My favorites are GWS and SunnySky. High quality components and good winding. SunnySky has been OEM for many model plane companies, like TechOne, FMS, etc. I have two T-motors (re-branded for TechOne), one is on a 4ch trainer and a 2212 kv1250 on a 3D trainer. Both had been abused regularly, darted into ground more than 100 times, flew in the rain/snow, emergency landed into pounds, etc. and they never missed a bit. I won’t hesitate to buy another one.
 

TDL

Active member
Here is an example of my burned E-Max 4020. As you can see, the winding was more like a Friday afternoon job, and the gaps between the magnets were not filled with epoxy. These are the quality details you cannot see from outside. However, for sub 300w motors running at 3s or 4s, I would ignore these details. Just prop the motor properly and enjoy!
1D289913-66BB-4B85-B004-B4D68B519D15.jpeg
 

Geronimo

Active member
Here is an example of my burned E-Max 4020. As you can see, the winding was more like a Friday afternoon job, and the gaps between the magnets were not filled with epoxy. These are the quality details you cannot see from outside. However, for sub 300w motors running at 3s or 4s, I would ignore these details. Just prop the motor properly and enjoy!

So what's the magic way to prop these? I have 2 new Surpass 2216 1120KV motors that were just given to me. They were described as a waste of $10!

On inspection they appear to have ball bearings and machine windings. They spec at 4S, so are they a waste of time or what?
 

CustomRCMods

Elite member
So what's the magic way to prop these? I have 2 new Surpass 2216 1120KV motors that were just given to me. They were described as a waste of $10!

On inspection they appear to have ball bearings and machine windings. They spec at 4S, so are they a waste of time or what?
I'd definitely start conservative, maybe 9x6, then work your way up if all is well. When trying a new prop, do a few passes then land and check temps and smell for burnt windings. Starting conservative and slowly working up is the best way to prevent completely destroying your motors when trying to find their limits and sweet spots
 

CustomRCMods

Elite member
I have Motrofly, Torque, Hyperion, Omega for my 3D planes, I have no problem paying over $100 a piece and another $100 for Phoenix ESC for planes that needs 500+w to perform. I had tried cheap alternative in the 46 to 50 range like E-max or Exceed, Aerodym, etc. the results were motors burned and planes crashed. However, after I learned how to properly prop my motor, I have not burned any sub 300w, cheap motors I got from eBay. Many of them I got for under $10, and they have been on in service for more than 10 years. Among these “Chinese junks”, some brands really stand out than others. My favorites are GWS and SunnySky. High quality components and good winding. SunnySky has been OEM for many model plane companies, like TechOne, FMS, etc. I have two T-motors (re-branded for TechOne), one is on a 4ch trainer and a 2212 kv1250 on a 3D trainer. Both had been abused regularly, darted into ground more than 100 times, flew in the rain/snow, emergency landed into pounds, etc. and they never missed a bit. I won’t hesitate to buy another one.

I understand where you are coming from, and completely agree that if you have that high of a demand for performance and have that kind of cash to use for it on your planes, That very well is the way to go. also of course if you are flying anything more special then a couple of bucks of foam and a few servos, I completely understand. However, I have had great experiences with inexpensive motors, like the previously mentioned sunnyskys, as well as emax, turnigy, and even all the way to those 5 dollar unbranded a2212 systems you can find on amazon. Obviously its hard to have high expectations for some inexpensive motors, but i have been blown away by the sunnysky performance and reliability even after months of using and abusing them.

Obviously everyone has their own philosophy on how they do this hobby, but I always have to remind myself that more money doesn't always mean more fun. And when you are operating a fleet of 20+ on a budget, making economical choices is paramount. I'm glad to see you are having success with your motor selection, and I'm happy to report I'm having success with mine!

Happy flying!
 

TDL

Active member
So what's the magic way to prop these? I have 2 new Surpass 2216 1120KV motors that were just given to me. They were described as a waste of $10!

On inspection they appear to have ball bearings and machine windings. They spec at 4S, so are they a waste of time or what?
I actually have two cheap 2216 (or 2836 in can size) kv1120 that I use them in GWS war birds running 9x6 on 3s. I like it a lot, it was a popular park 450 equivalent 10 more years ago for its smaller foot print and high power, but due to its physical limits (narrow but long can limits the shaft at 3mm maximum), this motor would get hot relatively quick and put a lot of pressure on the rear bearings, so, they are suitable to easy flying with up to 10x4.7 prop on 3s, maybe 8x4 prop on 4s for short run. Modern motor tends to be more “square“, like 2212 (2830) or 2812 (3530) for better all around performance.
I normally would check this site first: https://www.flybrushless.com/tools to find a prop test result on a similar motor, unfortunately, no 2216-1120kv is found. And then I would use the tools to estimate what I am looking for with a specific motor. I had built a thrust testing stand and did A lot of testing myself. I tested for peak amp/watt, max thrust and heat on power combos. What I found was, not all components created equal, For speed flying, GWS HD 9” and below are more efficient (less watts) than other brands. APC Speed is close to or better than GWS from 10” and up, and nothing beats APC SF in thrust but it consumes more watts. Also, the same power combo will draw more amp (more heat) on a 65c battery than a 25c one. So you really have to test the exact power combo to see if you exceed the maximum watts. All motors can achieve or even exceed the advertised watt, but the amp/heat would kill the motor in a few second.
However, my 3d and pattern day had passed. Now I am just teaching my son flying and relaxing. No more prop test but I still have 30+ props in different size. My approach now is to look at what other people use, and then find the smallest prop that can give me 1:1 thrust to weight ratio; hold the plane at WOT for 5 seconds (only for 28 series motor and under) and see if I can touch the motor. If too hot, either find another prop or switch to a bigger motor. Hope this help.
 

TDL

Active member
I'd definitely start conservative, maybe 9x6, then work your way up if all is well. When trying a new prop, do a few passes then land and check temps and smell for burnt windings. Starting conservative and slowly working up is the best way to prevent completely destroying your motors when trying to find their limits and sweet spots
Your fingers are much faster than mine! We are basically saying the same thing.
and don’t get me wrong. all of the small motor I am using now are cheap ones for under $10 from 10 years ago. i was just saying different motors for different uses.