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FDS

Elite member
You can use rechargeable AA batteries. More expensive radios allow you to use receiver packs or lipo.
Usually 4 standard Alkaline batteries last about 12 hours flying with my Orange RX6i.
 

smiling albert

Active member
Hi
Thanks again for all the help
3 more questions
1.I can't seem to find a Flysky FS6i ori6X package online that sells a USB cable with it-(I am going to have to buy anFlysky FS6i ori6X online as the shops near me don't sell them )where would I get one?
2.Regarding simulator s are there any other /cheaper ones than RF8.
3.Seriously -I am thinking of putting undercarriage on an FT TT.Has anyone doe it or think I am mad?
 

CarolineTyler

Legendary member
Hi
Thanks again for all the help
3 more questions
1.I can't seem to find a Flysky FS6i ori6X package online that sells a USB cable with it-(I am going to have to buy anFlysky FS6i ori6X online as the shops near me don't sell them )where would I get one?
2.Regarding simulator s are there any other /cheaper ones than RF8.
3.Seriously -I am thinking of putting undercarriage on an FT TT.Has anyone doe it or think I am mad?

22 in 1 RC Sim
 

Headbang

Master member
Personally I use rf 8, but I have been using that one since rf 4.5 and am a creature of habit (rf8 and a vr headset takes it to whole new level). There are other options, unfortunately pheonix is dead, but others may even know of free options.

Under carriage sounds great!
 

FDS

Elite member
I have undercarriage on mine. I made it like the Scout one, cut a slot in the fuselage. You can make it like the Sportster undercarriage and use bands onto bbq skewers too.
900A25CF-7B61-4388-9312-B8AA83B42F9C.jpeg

That’s 2mm wire and 55mm wheels. Wire from Cornwall Model Boats, there’s a link in the UK sub forum for the wire, wheels are up to you, eBay, local store, make from pool noodle. I kept mine small to keep weight/drag down, it could do with being an inch longer in the legs but you can land beautifully on grass with it. I don’t ground take off, it’s easier to use a launch catapult or left hand throw with throttle set and use the right stick, bit of up elevator.
You will need to buy a simulator multi cable for the Flysky, do a search, I don’t use a sim so no idea what they look like!
Phoenix RC is still around, Free version here.
Lots of TT mods, again search the forum and browse.
 

smiling albert

Active member
Hi
Once again thanks for all the help -particularly FDS (love the TT!!) and Caroline!
Sorry to keep harping on about the same things but this is my latest thinking just wanted to run it by you all..
1.I am coming round to the idea of buying a TT kit with all the bits in as opposed to scratchbuilding my first plane-sensible I think and as FDS said will learn from this.
Am visiting this shop at weekend-is this the kit /what else do I need?

https://www.stevewebb.co.uk/index.php?pid=FT4103&area=Aircraft

2.Will have to order the Flysky online as no shops seem to do it.
This -- https://www.banggood.com/FlySky-FS-...6.html?rmmds=search&ID=42482&cur_warehouse=CN
seems too good to be true for a 6 channel + I've heard nightmare stories about Bang good-delivery time etc-any thoughts on that anyone?

Thanks again everyone for all your helpful advice
 

smiling albert

Active member
Whoops just spotted that I need these as well for TT kit-anyone recommend any good buys from this list
  • Recommended Motor: 2200 kV 250 Size Motor
  • Recommended Prop: 6" X 3" Prop Minimum
  • Recommended Esc: 12 Amp Minimum
  • Recommended Battery: 500 - 800 mAh 2s Or 3s Lipo
  • Recommended Servos: (2 - 4) 4.5g - 9g Servos
I am picking up vibes about needing a few props as we're beginners-say 5?
 

FDS

Elite member
I run the following.
Motor
Prop
ESC
Lipo
Servos

I run on 2s, it’s plenty fast enough with that motor, video on my TT thread. You will need whatever connector you prefer for the speed controller and thus the battery, the ESC comes without plugs. You will also need some bullet connectors to connect to the motor and heat shrink. You will need to solder the connectors yourself. If that’s too much buy the Graupner FT power pack.
I like this charger for mains, there is a 12v version but I don’t charge in the car.
I recommend 4 batteries, you get 6-8mins out of each one, they might be small but they are light which will help keep your plane light, mount the two rear servos further forward than in the build video, it helps if you make the tail a bit heavy.
I gave you everything from HobbyKing, saves on postage plus all that is tried and tested, as opposed to unknown suppliers off eBay. HK customer service is a bit patchy but they do have some. Everything on that list I have tested myself.
I have not broken a single prop, you should throttle back BEFORE landing. I have broken 11 power pods, so order more FT mini firewalls with your kit or learn to make them out of modelling ply.
 

smiling albert

Active member
Hello again friends.
Been very busy at work so only got to the to the shop today.
They didn’t have the speed build kit for the TT in stock so I did the rash full thing of buying a load of foamboard and am going to attempt a scratch build.
They didn’t have any firewalls or control horns either so am going to have to make my own
What thickness of plywood should I use and is there a template I can use for cutting?
Bought the batteries/ motor/ESC/ servos and may have paid £30 more than HK but I did get to talk to humans!
 

FDS

Elite member
Template and plywood thickness is all on the plans. Any general purpose control horns will work, before the laser cut ones they used the push through two part plastic control horns, they might have those in the shop. Just don’t get really tall ones or the throws will be bigger than designed. Fine if you can tune them from the transmitter, but easier to have ones approaching the right height.
If you want an easy way of cutting out, use a little spray mount on the plans, stick them to the board then cut out, after that peel the plan paper off the board, take care not to remove the foamboard paper, most spray mount (not contact adhesive) is removable.
Thickness of the firewall is not critical, you will want 1.2mm music wire for the control wires in the TT. Mount the servos a bit further back than the marked position as it can come out a little nose heavy, I put them right at the back of the available space.
You should also get a few linkage stoppers for the aileron servos.
Message me if you help sourcing UK components, I have a few spares.
 

Headbang

Master member
Hello again friends.
Been very busy at work so only got to the to the shop today.
They didn’t have the speed build kit for the TT in stock so I did the rash full thing of buying a load of foamboard and am going to attempt a scratch build.
They didn’t have any firewalls or control horns either so am going to have to make my own
What thickness of plywood should I use and is there a template I can use for cutting?
Bought the batteries/ motor/ESC/ servos and may have paid £30 more than HK but I did get to talk to humans!
The templates for ply are on the plans. The thickness is on there too. Horns are 1/16, firewalls are 3/32 I believe. If you have access to a 3d printer you could print those parts as well. My first scratch build I cut the firewall out of ply, but I just shaped a craft stick with a dremel for the horns.
 

FDS

Elite member
I made my control horns out of 1.5mm thick styrene sheet. They make them out of plastic loyalty cards on FT too. I like plywood for the firewall as it shatters on impact, absorbing energy.
Metrics on the Ply- 2.3-2.5mm for firewall.
1.2mm for control horns.
 

Land Shark

Member
Hello again friends.
Been very busy at work so only got to the to the shop today.
They didn’t have the speed build kit for the TT in stock so I did the rash full thing of buying a load of foamboard and am going to attempt a scratch build.
They didn’t have any firewalls or control horns either so am going to have to make my own
What thickness of plywood should I use and is there a template I can use for cutting?
Bought the batteries/ motor/ESC/ servos and may have paid £30 more than HK but I did get to talk to humans!
I'm working on a scratch build myself! If you need control horns and pushrods, I've got some ideas. For control horns, I like to use guitar picks and cut them to size and put holes in them. For your pushrods, paperclips work great if you can get them long enough. Good luck!
 
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smiling albert

Active member
Hello everyone.
Have some more questions
1.Regarding storeage is it ok to use a garage ,slightly damp I know but as long as removed battery will it be ok ie not damage motor or esc?
2.I work at a college which I’ve just realised has just got a 3 D printer.
Could I use the pdf template for the TT and FT foamboard to save time cutting and getting a more accurate result?
For that matter could I use the firewall/control horn template to cut out plywood versions?
Btw ,not used to using forums so forgive my rudeness if I haven’t awarded house points to people who been unbelievably kind.Not sure how to do it but will if I can.
Thanks
 

daxian

Elite member
hi again Albert...
foamboard can be a little intolerant to damp conditions as can electronics ...but a garage should be ok !!
as you have access to a 3d printer you can find the control horns and also firewalls on thingiverse : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1299780
type ft in the search box, lots of stuff for the TT and others in there ...
i used to make the ply ones ...easy enough to do ...if you have tools to use ...
 

FDS

Elite member
The FT foamboard won’t care about a little damp. You can also store the TT very easily on a picture hook. It’s art after all. I prefer a firewall that breaks before my prop or motor, hence cheap hobby ply vs printed.
The templates on the FT plans are there for you to use to cut your own firewall and horns. I set up my own laser files for both, then my son cuts them at school!
You could use the plans to run a laser cutter if you have one big enough, then it’s as good as a speedbuild kit.
I would still just mail order a TT, other shops have them, you order now and it’s there by Wednesday with everything ready to go.
Lipo doesn’t simultaneously combust. I store mine in a tool box in the bottom of a cupboard. You can have a Lipo bag if you want, I have used lipo for 5 years, never bothered with a bag. Charge in a ceramic bowl with a loose lid if you are concerned about fire. I linked you the charger I recommend earlier in the thread, it has a simple storage setting. The only thing to avoid is going below 3.3v per cell and leaving a Lipo plugged into a plane or put in a storage box when discharged. It wants to be left at 75% charged or more if possible.
If you want to give people internet points for helping use the like button. Most people here just like helping each other, it’s why FT is so awesome.
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