Newbie - Can't get past the basics.

Descolada

Junior Member
Hi Everyone.

I am completely new to Rc and RC equipment. In preparing to build my first model from the 'scratch-built' series I have been collecting and testing the RC components needed to control the model once built, but I have hit a problem and am at a loss to understand what is going on.

Here's the hardware and it's configuration;

Transmitter: Turnigy 9x with FrSky MOD as detailed on RCModelReviews Channel.
Receiver: FrSky V8FR (version 1)
Battery: Turnigy 1300mAh 4S 20C Lipo Pack
ESC: Turnigy Plush 25amp Speed Controller
Motor: NTM Prop Drive Series 28-26A 1200kv / 250w

I am running through Josh's video on making and testing the connections along with calibrating the ESC for the first time. On the video Josh set's the throttle to max and then connects the battery to the ESC. The ESC gives the tone 123, beeps twice and then once again when Josh set's the throttle back to minimum.

Here's where I run into trouble. When I copy this process my ESC gives the tone, 123, then beeps at regular 1 second intervals. It doesn't stop until I unplug the battery and all the while the motor is twitching on the bench like it's just been shot.

I have seen various suggestions for this ESC that suggest setting the transmitter to minimum before plugging in the ESC, but that makes no difference.

Does anyone have any ideas about what I might be doing wrong please?

Des
 

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
After a closer thought, the problem might be the ESC not receiving a correct signal. Have you tested any servos with the Rx? Put a servo in the throttle channel and see if it works normally. Remember that signal wire usually goes to the front/inwards and the black/brown negative wire goes outwards/down when plugging it into the Rx.

I suspect the Tx-Rx connection might be the issue as you have modded it. Maybe you missed something.

IMG_9952_zps9777b6c3.jpg
 
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themajik1

Monkey/Bear Poker
Mentor
All good things to investigate, but one thing no one has yet to mention....

Remove the prop so you don't get hurt!!!
 

Descolada

Junior Member
HI Everyone, thank you very much for your suggestions. I will answer them here where I can (sorry about this omission, it was late and I needed to walk away from this and get some sleep).

THe first thing I should mention is that I forgot to include important information about the set-up. After MODing the Transmitter I upgraded the firmware to ER9x and used the Parkeflyer process as included here. I have then uploaded the "Sample Models" here.

So, here we go then;

Could you take a picture of your setup?

Yes, will try and do this later.

Is your battery charged? My setup will do that if I plug in a battery that is not fresh


Good point, I will put it on charge just to be sure.

I suspect the Tx-Rx connection might be the issue as you have modded it. Maybe you missed something.

Now, you could be on to something here. I tried running through all the 'ports' on the FrSky receiver (to be honest I have struggled to find any information about what should go where on this receiver - It would have been so much easier if the sockets had been labelled rather than simply saying 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8) and could not get any of them to operate a servo for the throttle channel. Tried swapping the plugs, tried reversing them ... all for nothing. I could not get any of them to work the throttle.

Did you bind the RX to the TX?

Yes, this process was done successfully. I can connect servos to the receiver and operate the elevators and ailerons.

Remove the prop so you don't get hurt!!!

A very important point, this one. I copied Josh and placed a bit of tape on the motor shaft rather than the prop.

Thanks again for all your suggestions folks, they are very much appreciated.

Des
 
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Descolada

Junior Member
Here are the photos requested. Any hints and suggestion are much appreciated,

Voltage Check.
009e4ca9-de67-4114-b3c1-b7eef9c9eff2_zpse90aa21e.jpg

Wiring Set-up
20130330_101107_zps3c91a6e2.jpg

Receiver/Battery Set-up
358b8baa-285c-4259-90a1-0bd6c24dbc0d_zpsf81eb1ab.jpg

Transmitter
20130330_101321_zps97a34677.jpg

Transmitter Close-up
20130330_101331_zpsbcc764d5.jpg
 

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CrashRecovery

I'm a care bear...Really?
Mentor
The numbers on the receiver corespond to the channel on the radio. Throttle is usually channel 3 elevators is 2 and alerons are 1. Hope that helps
 

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
What about Throttle hold switches?

I noticed you're using a 4S battery. Didn't know the plush-25 could take 4S...

I'd keep fiddling with the Rx. Plug a servo in any port and see what moves what. Do a list on what works and what doesn't.
 

Descolada

Junior Member
What about Throttle hold switches?

I noticed you're using a 4S battery. Didn't know the plush-25 could take 4S...

I'd keep fiddling with the Rx. Plug a servo in any port and see what moves what. Do a list on what works and what doesn't.

The battery? I am afraid I don't know enough about this yet to be in any way knowledgable about these things, the battery and the ESC (along with most of the other parts for the Baby Blender V2) were taken straight off Josh's list of parts for the build. I am simply trusting in his instructions until I get a little more experience in performance interaction between components.

I think you are right about the Transmitter thought, am probably going to put it back to the basic ex9r firmware and test again. It may be something to do with the ParkeFlyer demo planes.

Thank you again for your suggestions, they are much appeciated. I want to get up and flying with these scratch-built models and then gain in-flight experience.

Des
 
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Descolada

Junior Member
All Fixed!

I removed the ParkeFlyer firmware and reverted back to the original Turnigy 9x V2 factory default. With this I could control a servo through channel 3. I then upgraded to the default ER9X firmware and confirmed that the transmitter/Receiver was functioning as desired. Once this was confirmed I upgraded to the ER9X FrSky firmware and re-tested. The ESC calibration was completed as expected and functioned according to the example in Josh's video.

Thank you very much for all your suggestions as advice.

Now I need to find out how to reverse the shaft on the NTM Prop Drive Series 28-26A. It seems to be pointing out the wrong end?
 

pgerts

Old age member
Mentor
Now I need to find out how to reverse the shaft on the NTM Prop Drive Series 28-26A. It seems to be pointing out the wrong end?
Take away the locking spring at the end and separate the rotro from the stator.
120216-02.JPG



120216-03.JPG
120216-04.JPG


Unscrew the locking screws holding the axle. Press the axle in and tighen the screws.
Assemble the rotor to the stator.

120216-05.JPG
 

pgerts

Old age member
Mentor
It is not OR - it is AND if you want the propeller on the other side of the motor - plus you need another prop adapter.
 

Bolvon72

Senior Member
Mentor
It is not OR - it is AND if you want the propeller on the other side of the motor - plus you need another prop adapter.

It actually works pretty well with an "or"... There are many ways to pluck a duck. The prop adapter for this motor bolts to the motor without a need for a shaft. I actually just stick the shaft through the hole in the firewall and forget about it:

acc-pack-main(1).jpg 2013-03-31 15.01.31.jpg
 

pgerts

Old age member
Mentor
You are absolutely right about the ducks ;-)
I have no idea why someone wants to mount the motor in front of or behind the firewall, or if the CoG makes someone need the extra space for something.
 

Bolvon72

Senior Member
Mentor
I would wager for mounting it under the mount on a multicopter, like the new one the FT guys are developing.