I don't believe I have stick scaling on that transmitter. When I fly my planes I have plenty of control. So maybe it is the p and I gains. I think I set it to something a video said but it wasn't like what the pdf I downloaded said. I'm not sure why I listened to that guy. Cause it seemed different than all the other videos I watched. I can't remember the video thought. If you have a recommended video I would follow those instructions. It seems really windy when i went out for my morning smoke. I may not get to try it out today.
Noob Tricopter Keeps Flipping getting discouraged
I don't believe I have stick scaling on that transmitter. When I fly my planes I have plenty of control. So maybe it is the p and I gains. I think I set it to something a video said but it wasn't like what the pdf I downloaded said. I'm not sure why I listened to that guy. Cause it seemed different than all the other videos I watched. I can't remember the video thought. If you have a recommended video I would follow those instructions. It seems really windy when i went out for my morning smoke. I may not get to try it out today.
Just to muddy waters (ok, I like mud at times, so sue me) for a PID or PI controller, P = proportional, I = integral, D = differential (which the kk2 doesn't let you set -- not sure it's implemented).
any further beyond Xuzme's description involves a *lot* of ugly math and control theory . . . lets just say the tuning guides are a lot easier and more reliable than churning though the math.
How critical is CG? I have a battery on the camera plate for the most part centered. It slides around a bit. Velcro makes it impossible to slide the battery in so I'm just using the straps that came with the plate but they don't really hold it in place.
First off, if you don't have fixed CG for the flight, you'll forever fight the trim of the craft. it's one of the problems Gassers and float planes have to deal with -- gassers because they loose mass, float planes because they may take some on. Gassers account for it by putting the tank as close to CG as possible. Most float planes seal everything up, but just live with a little leaking -- it can be done, but it makes the flight less enoyable.
Now for multirotors characteristics, for stability the control board needs as clean of a picture of the platform's motion to make it's corrections. the cleanest picture is at the CG. If your board isn't near the CG all the gyro measurements get magnified by the distance from the CG.
Think about it like a bug crawling on a baseball bat -- if you shake it off while it's on the handle, it'll probably hold on fine. if it's on the end of the bat, you're gonna send it into the bleachers. Your *very* sensitive Gyros are like this -- near the CG it gets a clear picture of the motion, farther out it's a rockier ride.
A constant magnification can be accounted for in your tuning. A moving magnification is going to throw off your tuning every time it shifts. It's like someone is randomly changing those PI settings mid flight. A little bit may mean you loose some performance, a bit more on twitchy settings may make it become unstable.
Now having bad *constant* CG means unbalanced wear on the motors (they're not all loaded equally), and possibly sluggish response in one direction and twitchy in the other (some of the motors have more power to surge than others).
If you have Velcro that's compatible with the strap (some of the fine Velcros won't work with the coarse Velcros), you might Velcro the strap to the board so it doesn't slide, then Velcro the battery to the strap. Also adding/gluing a piece of rubbery shelf liner between the battery and frame will keep the battery from sliding as long as the strap has some tension on it.
That's not uncommon for TX's, but in this case Xuzme is referring to a feature of the control board.
In initial setup, you should pull up the receiver test on the KK2 and adjust what you can on your transmitter to get as close to -100 to 100 settings on each channel (except throttle, which is 0-100). close is all that you need, just do your best to make sure at neutral it zeros out, and throw either way is close to equal. after that, there's not much left to adjust on the transmitter.
*Then* stick scaling becomes handy -- you're telling the board what the transmitter means, for instance, by "+57" on the aileron channel. Does that mean hard roll right? Medium roll right? Tiny roll right? Your stick scaling does this -- the higher the number, the more throw that channel is allowed by the board, which means the more it will roll when you move your AIL stick to a particular position.
I have thought of using a rubbery type surface just haven't decided what to you. Rubber bands a zig zag of hot glue or those non slip cupboard things. So I have trimmed the transmitter test to 0 but I do not know about stick scaling on the board. Is there a menu on there for it? I'm so new with it I may have seen it but it didn't register with all newness of the whole kk board and not knowing what I'm doing. I'm pretty sure when I did the transmitter check I wasn't getting to 100 on my throws.
Just curious. Why are you guys helping me? What makes you search for someone needing help and then write and walk them through this stuff? You could just say too bad for that guy and enjoy flying your multirotors with knowledge to correct problems. And watch tv do things with your family but you take the time to help people. I appreciate it very much. Just curious what drives you to be so helpful and your nice about it. No criticism or down talking.
Johan
Senior Member
Hi Loc8tor: With these ESC's The LVC can only be turned off using a programming card. But you can change the Battery Type using a rather cumbersome procedure with your transmitter (involving a sequence of loads of beeps).
It is described in this PDF manual:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uploads/1001782845X7478X34.pdf
Some people do that to change the LVC cutoff voltage.
This voltage differs per Battery Type, If you change the battery type To NiXX, the LVC kicks in at 0.6 - 0.9 V (instead of 2.8-3.2V for LiPo).
Since that is WAY below the minimum voltage for a Lipo, this is effectively the same as disabling LVC.
This also means: use this setting only if you have a Low Voltage alarm !!!
The alarm will well ... alarm you, so you can land safely, but the LVC will not kick in, so motors stay running.
The swapping of the ESC ports: That's a good one for my checklist, missed that one
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Johan
Senior Member
Well, I guess most of us went through the same process of fiddling with the thousands of combinations of settings, first finding all those that don't work...
We then found Flitetest, hosted by a crew that wants to inform people as much as they can. We then found the forums where the same spirit rules, where we (anyway I speak for myself) were greeted by a large number of people trying to help us...
LOL: posts of the other contributors in this thread have helped me a lot (you know who you are
)This is by far one of the most helpful and friendly forums I've ever been part of
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All you need is whatever you have handy that keeps the battery from moving. There is no "right" answer, it's more like "Hey, that works!". As far as stick scaling, I think Dan covered that, but to go over it again won't hurt. On the KK2 menu you already know how to find the receiver test and zero the throws, meaning when you are not moving the sticks they all read "0". I also like to pop the sticks in either direction to make sure they return to zero, but that's just me. For making the throws go to "100", you might need to play with your endpoints. This isn't really critical, I think mine end up at 125 or so. I don't have any Spektrums, so someone else might have to help you with that. Once you have that sorted out, in the KK2 menu there is a "stick scaling" submenu. This is where you tell the KK2 how much to react when the sticks are moved. For instance, if you have seen the anycopter episode where David is doing flips with the quad, you see him go to something crazy on the stick scaling like 150. The thing is so sensitive there, when he flips it, it flips so fast, you lose which way is up. This is not what you want! You want solid control without being over sensitive. See where your numbers are now and increase them slightly and see if that helps. If it gets worse, decrease them.
Make sure you keep the radio (receiver test) and your stick scaling numbers straight! It's really easy to mix them up and if you got to 100 on stick scaling, it will be a handful!
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Gluttons for punishment?
Actually, what drives me, and I think many others that help, is a love of the hobby and a willingness to share it with others. One of the really nice things about the hobby is while it's a personal thing in that we can pick and choose what we like or don't like to fly, it's also got a mass appeal that can encompass many types of people, flying types and even aircraft types. Plus it's easy to help since most of the systems are interchangeable across the different disciplines.
Bottom line? It's a great hobby! Why not share it? Plus, we have all been where you are at some point. We know what it's like and just want to get you through the learning curve.
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As far as batteries moving around. Either place velcro under it OR there is a rubbery material that my wife gets at a Dollar Store. It is some sort that is used for shelf liners in her cabinets. It is VERY unslick and if glued to the battery or battery mounting surface it will stop the sliding around.
Thurmond
Thurmond
Wait, What?!?!? you're *NOT* gonna write us a check when you get this working?!?!?
In all seriousness, can't add much more than what others have -- we all need help sometime, with something, and we've all been where the right idea/suggestion will make everything work. The willingness to lend a hand gladly exists in many places in this hobby, and this is one of them -- something our world today is greatly lacking.
There's too many places where ridicule rules -- "I'll help you noob, but I'm gonna make you suffer first" -- that helps no one. We do hope you'll like it enough to hang around with us, but if not, hopefully we helped get you back in the air. After all, If we help you succeed, we can share in that. It's what community is really all about: dividing troubles to multiply successes.
Johan
Senior Member
LOL, In one of the other forums I posted a question, the only reply (not ridiculing, it was meant helpfully) I got was:
"dude, there's no one here ..."
People are helping you because we love this hobby and really enjoy seeing others succeed in the hobby. That's why this forum is here! We are all here to help each other out. There are several on this site that I consider personal friends - so much to the extent that I've been loaned some items via mail, such as the tool to flash the kk2 and a really nice pair of LED arrays. I've never met these guys in person and only know them from this forum and facebook chat.
Bottom line is, we have a GREAT group of people on this forum. And, we do a pretty decent job of discouraging negativity and nastiness if it arises (which it doesn't very often). I think this forum is a more welcoming place than others because those are the attitudes that the Flite Test crew embodies. We have gravitated toward that positivity because it really is a breath of fresh air on the internet!
So, welcome to the forum! We're glad to have you here. By the way, have you been able to work out this issue, yet?
Well put, Teach! It isn't always like this in the hobby. I was at the local field awhile back and talking about the foamboard planes, and got the distinct impression that they really looked down on this type of aircraft. They weren't rude or anything but just steered the conversation away from it anytime I brought it up. You'll find that most of the older guys, that have been doing this forever, seem to have that same type of mindset. I don't know if the "gotta pay your dues, kid" thing with them, but I have seen it many times. You'll always find some wherever you go, but since it's foamboard that brings most of us here, you don't see much, or any, of that attitude. I have been into R/C flight in one flavor or another, off and on, since I was 7 or 8, have built 9 or 10 balsa models from freeflight to 3D but I love helping others and think foamboard is awesome to build with. I have passed balsa builds with my foamboard builds in number, and frankly have become a better pilot because of it. I am more willing to push the envelope with a foamy and that has helped immensely! I owe it mostly to Flitetest for opening my eyes to the cheap side of R/C flying...cheap is of course a relative term.
I'm not sure we have the issue fixed yet but I think we're close, Teach.
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I can't say much in terms of multirotors. But, I did find that recalibrating my escs a couple of times would fix my long lost tricopter's flipping upon takeoff issues.
Nope. It became self-aware and flew away. Watch out for Sky-net.
Yes, he did. Hopefully he can find it when the leaves fall. I need to stop by and ask the farmer who owns the property where I think it went down if he found it.
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