Painting Foam Board

[xuzme720]

I used a generic "windex" refill with ammonia for the Spitfire and didn't have any warping issues. It doesn't look like it's too thin since your color looks pretty deep after just a dust coat. Is the paper still on the backside? I know when you peel the paper off one side, it will warp towards the paper side...

 

[Jaxx]

It's funny you guys bring up the topic of "ammonia" in the Windex. Yesterday, I posted a question in the "Ask Chad" thread, asking if the he uses the Windex with ammonia in it or without ammonia in it. I just picked up some Walmart brand "Windex" with ammonia, so I'll probably wait for an answer before I use it on my plane. I will post the answer here once I get a response. I'm new to airbrushing, so trying to learn as much as I can. I'll be using the Apple Barrel acrylic paints from Walmart with a Harbor Freight airbrush setup. The paint can also be diluted with water, so I will try that on some scrap foam first, then try the paint that is diluted with Windex.

 

[xuzme720]

Great Value...that's the exact same thing I used on my Spitfire with the Apple Barrel acrylics. The only difference is my airbrush which is a DA Badger that I've had for years. I'm still not good with it since I don't use it often enough, but it is a good airbrush and forgives my shortcomings to a degree...

I mixed my colors in empty water bottles, and once I had the color I wanted, I added the windex 1 to 1. That seemed just a bit thin so you might want to try maybe .75 to 1 to test.

 

[kansasvmax94]

So does anybody put a clear coat or sealant over their paint jobs? If so, what kind have you used?

 

[xuzme720]

I haven't and I don't think many do, due to weight gain. But you might get lucky and find someone that has.

 

[kansasvmax94]

Yea I figured the weight of the clear would be way to much. Just didn't know (just now getting into airbrushing) how durable the finishes were or if they were very shiny without some sort of clear covering. The FT Duster for instance, at least in the video with it's red finish, looks rather glossy. I guess that could just be vinyl too though.

 

[xuzme720]

If gloss finish is important, the colored packing tape might be a better option for you. With painting, depending on technique and materials, the finish will vary considerably.

 

[rockets4kids]

For a gloss finish over paint, many modelers use Future Floor Polish.

 

[xuzme720]

For a gloss finish over paint, many modelers use Future Floor Polish.

I have on plastic static models, like cars and such, but never planes. It should work, but I'd be worried about weight.

 

[kansasvmax94]

I guess I wasn't so much worried about the glossy finish as I am preserving my paint job if I someday get to painting good. I guess I'm trying to figure out step 17 when I'm not finished with step 5 yet. Gotta slow the brain down a click! Thanks for input all!

 

[rockets4kids]

I have on plastic static models, like cars and such, but never planes. It should work, but I'd be worried about weight.

Any paint/finish can add substantial weight if you aren't careful. Standard rules apply: Always test on scrap materials to insure compatibility, and always weigh parts before/after each coat/later.

 

[kansasvmax94]

When painting your swappables, does you have issues with paint adhesion on the power pods or any other spots where packing tape has been used? Just wondering different approaches to getting good adhesion there. I used a grey scuff pad to try to break the surface tension down a bit on the tape and tried painting it. It seemed to hold but seemed rather easy to scuff right back off. Anybody try anything different? Possibly like a spray adhesion promoter or some variation?

 

[xuzme720]

When painting your swappables, does you have issues with paint adhesion on the power pods or any other spots where packing tape has been used? Just wondering different approaches to getting good adhesion there. I used a grey scuff pad to try to break the surface tension down a bit on the tape and tried painting it. It seemed to hold but seemed rather easy to scuff right back off. Anybody try anything different? Possibly like a spray adhesion promoter or some variation?

I usually don't paint the power pod. Since it's mostly hidden, except for the bottom on some planes, it's not been an issue yet.

 

[jhitesma]

I've used future on rockets before, but haven't had a plane I wanted that shiny yet.

As for painting over packing tape, I had no adhesion problems at all without scuffing or anything. I did some tests before trying a plane and one test piece was taped while another was plain and the taped one seemed to take paint just a well if not better. That was standard (not extreme) scotch packaging tape.

 

[augernaught]

Minwax on pink insulation foam?

Has anyone coated Owens-Corning Formular 250 with Minwax to hard-surface it,
and if so, did it harm it in any way?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Co...x-8-ft-Tongue-and-Groove-Foam-24DD/100320335#

I fabricated a radial engine cowl and nose deck for a Yakovlev Air-5 (Yak Air-5) project I am working on
that uses many swappable build principles out of this foam, but after sanding and shaping it shows
how soft this foam is under the surfaces. I need to get a harder surface on it or it will get
hangar rash just looking at it to long, and I want to prime it for painting.





>>>> I noticed many people saying they use Windex to thin their acrylics.
At my LHS we use Windshield Wiper Fluid. It is basically the same thing, but only $2 a gallon.
I have not tried it with any paints I have used on my DTF builds yet,
but I do not expect it would act any different than Windex, just a bunch cheaper to use.



>>>> Someone asked about over-coating paints to protect the finish. I used Minwax on my FT SF
build and used Apple Barrel acrylics to paint it up, then I made custom decals with the Testers Decal kit.

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/custom-decal-system-995506/

I wanted a nice, smooth surface for the decals to adhere to, so I used clear semi-gloss
Krylon Fusion for Plastics in the areas for the decals, and it worked fantastic when applied
in light coats. For an even finish, and to protect the decals, I then applied it to the entire plane.
It does a fine job, and because Fusion dries so quickly, it minimizes the chance of damage
to the foam, once again, if applied in light coats.

 

[DDSFlyer]

Quick Tip: If you plan on masking off designs, take off the Scotch tape holding down the poster board...paint does not like to stick to tape. When trying to tape off a design to finish off the second color, my pinstriping tape pulled off all the paint I previously laid down...

 

[jw423]

Just wondering about how much paint you guys go through to paint a plane with an airbrush? Should I buy the 2 oz bottles or the monsters Chad bought?

 

[bstanley72]

I've read through this whole thread and don't see this mentioned. Does it make a difference using satin or gloss Minwax? How about spray paint, gloss or flat?

 

[Freaky_1]

Off topic of the latest question, but I've been tinting wbpu (minwax polycrylic) with dry water paint sets from the dollar store. For some colors I had to add a drop of food coloring to as well to get the hue I wanted.

Note for anyone to attempt it: go with a VERY light first coat to seal. Cover your tinted wbpu to keep it from drying out till that coat flashes (past tacky but not fully cured) and hit it with a normal coat.

For the tractor, I then dusted over with spray paint as I wanted it darker and wasn't too concerned with the added weight. Being already colored, it took very little paint to achieve final color.

I also experimented with children's washable paints and wbpu which work well but must be covered with a pure wbpu coat as water will still run the tint if not sealed over.

I'll try to get some shots of my test boards up when I get back to it this weekend.

Frank

 

[Craftydan]

interesting . . . I wonder if you could do the same with the Minwax Polyurethane and oil-based pigment. It does sound . . . complicated.