Painting tips??

Prowla

Member
Hey guys!! so i'm building my self a simple cub as my first build. i'm getting close to the end of assembly and starting to think of paint. i'm going to do a coat of poly to seal it, i was wondering do you guys have any preference to type of paint to use?? would it be better to go with the paint for plastics or use just plain rust paint?? or go with art paint? what do you guys think??

p.s. i'll be posting some pictures soon if any one is interested to see my first build. thanks for reading, The Prowla out!
 

nhk750

Aviation Enthusiast
Zinbinzer to prime, then Rustoleum to paint. The zin will stick to anything with no sanding needed! I only use the polyurethane for the white foam board and usually don't paint that.
 

foamtest

Toothpick glider kid
I just use spray paint for my models, I wouldn't use most art paints, like acrylic, unless you use an airbrush. If you just use a normal brush it puts too much paint on and will make the plane heavy. Spray paint also adds weight but it is not as much. For your first build I would just fly it and not paint it unless you have some flight experience before hand, like a simulator or something similar. It sucks putting a bunch of work painting something to look nice and then having the paint job ruined by a crash. I personally would wait for my second plane but if you want to paint your first as practice go for it! Also for the waterproof foam either use a good primer or use some 400grit sandpaper to take the waxy surface off of the foam so the paint sticks.
 

jamboree1

Active member
As a rule i never paint a plane until after the maiden flight. And if I do paint a plane i use cheap acrylic paints in an air brush thinned down with windex. Be warned that some rattle cans aerosol will melt the foam and if you use spray paint be sure to use multiple light coats because if the paper gets to wet it can lift off of the foam.
 

DamoRC

Elite member
Mentor
As a rule, I almost always paint a plane fully before its maiden flight - I like to tempt the wrath of the maiden gods (the recent C-130 was an exception) and it gives me a nicer pic to remember the plane by if the maiden fails ;)

I use white foamboard from dollar tree and never prime or min-wax. Just straight to the Rustoleum rattle (spray) cans. As Jamboree said, the trick is multiple light coats with drying in between.

DamoRC
 

sprzout

Knower of useless information
Mentor
Rustoleum is one of the few paints that won't eat the foam...I like it, but only if I'm applying a large area. I've got some detail work that I want to do for my new Bushwacker that I'm building, and so I'm going to end up brush painting it to get the detail I want (eagle head up towards the front, with a mountain range headed back towards the tail, and the registration numbers on the back of the body). I figure if i do a white Rustoleum over it as a primer, and THEN apply the black/grey that I want in light coats, it'll go well, hopefully. :)
 

Prowla

Member
thanks for the tips guys. i'm not sure how what i'm useing matches up with dtfb. mine is foam core with just a black paper lamination. hence why i was thinking of sealing it with poly. and personaly i don't think i have the paticence to wait till i get to maiden it :p i'm trying to sorce some items from local buy and sells to save a bit of money. looking for a nice transmitter. (found a frsky with a basic quad set up for 180$ maybe) so basicly just building this to pass time and learn the building basics.
p.s. i've build a fuax half power pack and foam prop as a mock up while i wait :p if anyone wants to donate old parts to a noobie i'll love you forever!!:p
 

Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
It seems that my painting method is different to that used by others.

I seal the FB paper using a wipe on oil based varnish and seal the exposed edges of the foam with a clear, (foam safe), craft glue. When the varnish and the glue are dry I just use the cheapest aerosol paint, (rattle can), that I can find in the colour or colours selected. Ideally do a light tack coat first and wait for it to dry before applying a finish coat, (something I often rush with a single heavy coat when time is an issue),

Just what works for me and is the finish I use for those FB models I sell in the local retail outlet!

have fun!
 

Prowla

Member
It seems that my painting method is different to that used by others.

I seal the FB paper using a wipe on oil based varnish and seal the exposed edges of the foam with a clear, (foam safe), craft glue. When the varnish and the glue are dry I just use the cheapest aerosol paint, (rattle can), that I can find in the colour or colours selected. Ideally do a light tack coat first and wait for it to dry before applying a finish coat, (something I often rush with a single heavy coat when time is an issue),

Just what works for me and is the finish I use for those FB models I sell in the local retail outlet!

have fun!
that is much like the process i had in my head i'm glade to hear it should work well. baught my paint today golden sunset and black!!! Can't wait!! building a few extra details tonight then full final assembly and painting
 

mrjdstewart

Legendary member
Rustoleum 2X is the best paint i have ever used on the foam board. it has a primer/paint combo and can cover a cub in 2 coats easy. well worth it.

laterss,

me :cool:
 

Prowla

Member
Rustoleum 2X is the best paint i have ever used on the foam board. it has a primer/paint combo and can cover a cub in 2 coats easy. well worth it.

laterss,

me :cool:
awesome i picked up some flat white Rustoleum 2X today! i've always used it to prime canvas
 

Prowla

Member
so i've started sealing my cub. and have noticed that the poly seems to eat the glue a little. i think i'll get away with it, and maybee need to go a little easier on the hot glue... just curious are you guys using other things besides hot glue???
 

Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
I live in Aus where currently winter is approaching and the thermometer has dropped into the 20s, (Celsius),
A fair while ago I had bad experiences with the hot glue, firstly I was not very good at applying it and the planes left in a locked car in summer would either come unglued or warp and the like causing more losses than my frequent crashes.

Now I use a clear foam safe craft glue which works so well that the plane can become soft and rather limp, (due to crash and water damage) and yet the glue is still solid and rather rigid. It takes a while to dry properly, (about 5 minutes maximum), which can slow down that fast build but it does give me time to ensure that I did the A or B fold joint correctly. As the same glue is great for use with Balsa and most wood I just have a 2 glue workshop, (the second is epoxy for firewalls etc).

As I also design, build, and sell FB creations through a local retail outlet I needed a glue which was permanent and very strong. I have received feedback from retailer and his customers that the planes are so sound in structure that some customers often fly them on days of desperation, (wet and very windy days) without fear.

Just what works for me! Good luck with your build.

Have fun!
 

Prowla

Member
I live in Aus where currently winter is approaching and the thermometer has dropped into the 20s, (Celsius),
A fair while ago I had bad experiences with the hot glue, firstly I was not very good at applying it and the planes left in a locked car in summer would either come unglued or warp and the like causing more losses than my frequent crashes.

Now I use a clear foam safe craft glue which works so well that the plane can become soft and rather limp, (due to crash and water damage) and yet the glue is still solid and rather rigid. It takes a while to dry properly, (about 5 minutes maximum), which can slow down that fast build but it does give me time to ensure that I did the A or B fold joint correctly. As the same glue is great for use with Balsa and most wood I just have a 2 glue workshop, (the second is epoxy for firewalls etc).

As I also design, build, and sell FB creations through a local retail outlet I needed a glue which was permanent and very strong. I have received feedback from retailer and his customers that the planes are so sound in structure that some customers often fly them on days of desperation, (wet and very windy days) without fear.

Just what works for me! Good luck with your build.

Have fun!

sounds awesome. i'm going to have to look it up, do you have a brand your suggest?? i'm still begging for parts and electrics haha so this is basicly a model build atm rough and dirty but trying to make it look pretty!
 

Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
The brand I use varies on availability but in AUD I pay between $2 and $4 per bottle, (100ml) which is enough for around 5 FT Simple Cub type planes.

Turns out far less cost than the hot glue when you build as many planes as I do and also it is a great glue for use when repairing that crashed foamy!

Have fun!
 

Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
Here is one of the versions, http://www.sullivans.net/proddetail.asp?ProdCode=49901
Ingredients are Poly Vinyl Acetate, Ethanol, Ethyl Acetate.

I am sure that the US has the same brand with the distribution headquarters being in Chicago.

Like everything else buy a sample quantity and do your own evaluations.!

At my club now the glue holds together all of the FB creations as well as the vast majority or repaired retail foamies.

Have fun!
 

Prowla

Member
whats good back again cub is primed and first coat is on. loving the colour. but i had another issue show up when i was painting that is with the sides of my foam core. (now givin my board may be cheaper quality or something i'm not to worryed) but some of the foam tore when i was cutting it out when my blade got a little dull these little pockets where crazy hard to fill with paint. do you guys sand or seal your edges with anything?? i thought about glue but it didn't look right and i don't think i want to start bondoing edges unless i start wire cutting and fiberglass molding.