Hi,
Newbie here. Daughter and I now have matching Chuck Glider's -- thankfully papa's flies father or I would never hear the end of it!
But, we don't want matching anymore -- she wants to paint hers. I've read through lots of posts via the search feature -- maybe too many posts and I want to make sure I have it right.
If using the white Dollar Tree Foam Board (DTFB) we need to miniwax the paper and exposed foam before using Rust-Oleum? That's the recommended method, right? Yes there are other ways if I had various other bits of equipment or could source paint other than at Home Depot, but I don't and just want the simplest way of getting it done tomorrow.
Is gluing the edges of the foam just for durability or does it help with the adhering of the paint?
If and when we get the brown waterproof foam board quick-build kits from flite-test we would not need to use the miniwax, just rough up the surface with Scotchbrite pads. Still use Rust-Oleum, correct?
thanks,
Jab
Newbie here. Daughter and I now have matching Chuck Glider's -- thankfully papa's flies father or I would never hear the end of it!
But, we don't want matching anymore -- she wants to paint hers. I've read through lots of posts via the search feature -- maybe too many posts and I want to make sure I have it right.
If using the white Dollar Tree Foam Board (DTFB) we need to miniwax the paper and exposed foam before using Rust-Oleum? That's the recommended method, right? Yes there are other ways if I had various other bits of equipment or could source paint other than at Home Depot, but I don't and just want the simplest way of getting it done tomorrow.
Is gluing the edges of the foam just for durability or does it help with the adhering of the paint?
If and when we get the brown waterproof foam board quick-build kits from flite-test we would not need to use the miniwax, just rough up the surface with Scotchbrite pads. Still use Rust-Oleum, correct?
thanks,
Jab