Jimmy the Heater
Member
Power distribution idea here.
After seeing the FB post from FliteTest about the Power hungry systems dist block http://www.powerhungrysystems.com/products.html I thought I would throw out an idea.
First a little background, well because I'm long winded. I used to work in car audio and pro audio and we saw this kind of thing all the time. Supposedly specialized equipment for crazy prices to work in just the application you need it to. Stuff like $100 fuse holders, and $1000 speaker cables were very common. Yet when we were trying to fix a cable or connection, a quick run to Home Depot or Lowes would usually be able to fix the problem easy and cheap.
Now I have never used the above linked product, heck I haven't even seen it in person but $275+ for a dist block and some bullet connectors? Yikes! Maybe there is a better way? Disclaimer #1. I am NOT an electrical engineer, just someone who has twisted a lot of wire. Disclaimer #2 I have never put together a multirotor so I might be missing something huge in the way they work.
So the way I understand things is this dist block works by taking your battery/batteries power, running it through its board and then out at 4 different termination points to the esc's. It eliminates some wiring clutter and it is pretty light. However wouldn't something like a regular power terminal block do the same thing?
Is it as cool looking? No. Is it as organized? No. Is it vastly cheaper....Yes.
For something as simple as this, a power distribution block doesn't care if its carrying 2s, 12s, 120volt or 240 volts. As long as the effective gauge of the block is able to handle the power it will work just fine. The pictured block can carry up to 1500 amps. Just run your battery power into the large terminal and you have several outputs to send to your esc's. And they cost a few dollars. Yes you would have to use a 2 terminal block, one for positive and one for negative and then make a short heavy gauge run with your favorite battery connector on the end but I can't see why that wouldn't work just fine.
I can see it in my head and hopefully I was clear enough that it makes sense without pictures. Without a multi of my own it's hard to make a visual example of my own to show via pics.
After seeing the FB post from FliteTest about the Power hungry systems dist block http://www.powerhungrysystems.com/products.html I thought I would throw out an idea.
First a little background, well because I'm long winded. I used to work in car audio and pro audio and we saw this kind of thing all the time. Supposedly specialized equipment for crazy prices to work in just the application you need it to. Stuff like $100 fuse holders, and $1000 speaker cables were very common. Yet when we were trying to fix a cable or connection, a quick run to Home Depot or Lowes would usually be able to fix the problem easy and cheap.
Now I have never used the above linked product, heck I haven't even seen it in person but $275+ for a dist block and some bullet connectors? Yikes! Maybe there is a better way? Disclaimer #1. I am NOT an electrical engineer, just someone who has twisted a lot of wire. Disclaimer #2 I have never put together a multirotor so I might be missing something huge in the way they work.
So the way I understand things is this dist block works by taking your battery/batteries power, running it through its board and then out at 4 different termination points to the esc's. It eliminates some wiring clutter and it is pretty light. However wouldn't something like a regular power terminal block do the same thing?
Is it as cool looking? No. Is it as organized? No. Is it vastly cheaper....Yes.
For something as simple as this, a power distribution block doesn't care if its carrying 2s, 12s, 120volt or 240 volts. As long as the effective gauge of the block is able to handle the power it will work just fine. The pictured block can carry up to 1500 amps. Just run your battery power into the large terminal and you have several outputs to send to your esc's. And they cost a few dollars. Yes you would have to use a 2 terminal block, one for positive and one for negative and then make a short heavy gauge run with your favorite battery connector on the end but I can't see why that wouldn't work just fine.
I can see it in my head and hopefully I was clear enough that it makes sense without pictures. Without a multi of my own it's hard to make a visual example of my own to show via pics.