Mark408
New member
Story (not important):
A few months ago, I gave my brother a Flite test plane (I built it and spent a while painting it). This would be his first plane but I was reluctant to let him fly it, that's because the plane was a FT FW 190 mighty mini. And since he has little experience at flying, he would probably end up crashing it within a minute. So instead, I decided to make him a scratch built DTFB 4 channel "trainer". I ended up making a large A1 skyraider with a similar technique as the master series (just crappier). And I made the wings longer than scale to make it floatier and possibly stall better (undercambered wingtips).
Specs (Airframe):
Wingspan: 60" (1524 mm)
Length: 33" (838 mm)
Airframe weight: 150 grams (0.33 pound)
Wing chord at root: 9.5" (241 mm)
Wing chord at tip: 5.5" (140 mm)
Airfoil: Clark Y, undercambered wingtips (last 7 inches of wing)
Concern (Important part):
My main concern is what power pack to use. I was thinking of using a power pack A or power pack B. The point of this plane is to be a trainer that flies slow and won't do many aerobatic maneuvers. (The spar I used for the wing was a 1/4", 10 inch wooden dowel and a few pieces of depron stacked on top of each other. The strength on the rest of the wing comes from mostly the paper on the bottom surface and the fact the wing has 2 sheets of foam for it's airfoil.) The max weight I would want to go is 300 grams (150 grams airframe, 20 grams from servos, 20 grams from motor, 60 grams from the battery, ~20 grams miscellaneous). Would a mini power pack like this be enough or should I get a power pack B?
Minor Concern:
The horizontal stab and vertical stab are currently single sheet depron pieces with an airfoil sanded into them. The horizontal stab has a piece of 2 mm (iirc) carbon fiber in the middle. Would this be enough or should I keep the paper from the DTFB on the stabilizer? My idea was making the stabilizers from depron and the actual control surface from foamboard for rigidity.
Pics:
The ugly bird herself. The elevator is tilted and not glued it for the reason mentioned above. The rudder is also not fully complete + other cosmetic issues. (please excuse the dirty concrete, had to take pics somewhere with good lighting)
Thanks for reading!
View attachment 227265 View attachment 227266
View attachment IMG_1695.png View attachment IMG_1697.png
A few months ago, I gave my brother a Flite test plane (I built it and spent a while painting it). This would be his first plane but I was reluctant to let him fly it, that's because the plane was a FT FW 190 mighty mini. And since he has little experience at flying, he would probably end up crashing it within a minute. So instead, I decided to make him a scratch built DTFB 4 channel "trainer". I ended up making a large A1 skyraider with a similar technique as the master series (just crappier). And I made the wings longer than scale to make it floatier and possibly stall better (undercambered wingtips).
Specs (Airframe):
Wingspan: 60" (1524 mm)
Length: 33" (838 mm)
Airframe weight: 150 grams (0.33 pound)
Wing chord at root: 9.5" (241 mm)
Wing chord at tip: 5.5" (140 mm)
Airfoil: Clark Y, undercambered wingtips (last 7 inches of wing)
Concern (Important part):
My main concern is what power pack to use. I was thinking of using a power pack A or power pack B. The point of this plane is to be a trainer that flies slow and won't do many aerobatic maneuvers. (The spar I used for the wing was a 1/4", 10 inch wooden dowel and a few pieces of depron stacked on top of each other. The strength on the rest of the wing comes from mostly the paper on the bottom surface and the fact the wing has 2 sheets of foam for it's airfoil.) The max weight I would want to go is 300 grams (150 grams airframe, 20 grams from servos, 20 grams from motor, 60 grams from the battery, ~20 grams miscellaneous). Would a mini power pack like this be enough or should I get a power pack B?
Minor Concern:
The horizontal stab and vertical stab are currently single sheet depron pieces with an airfoil sanded into them. The horizontal stab has a piece of 2 mm (iirc) carbon fiber in the middle. Would this be enough or should I keep the paper from the DTFB on the stabilizer? My idea was making the stabilizers from depron and the actual control surface from foamboard for rigidity.
Pics:
The ugly bird herself. The elevator is tilted and not glued it for the reason mentioned above. The rudder is also not fully complete + other cosmetic issues. (please excuse the dirty concrete, had to take pics somewhere with good lighting)
Thanks for reading!
View attachment 227265 View attachment 227266
View attachment IMG_1695.png View attachment IMG_1697.png
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