Power pod electronics

Booda10925

New member
I'm curious as to what the general consensus is on the electronics in the power pod kits? Seems to me like they did all the math and wrap everything up, especially for us noobs. I get lost in numbers when I look at parts on hobbyking and other sites.
 

Merv

Site Moderator
Staff member
I'm curious as to what the general consensus is on the electronics in the power pod kits? Seems to me like they did all the math and wrap everything up, especially for us noobs. I get lost in numbers when I look at parts on hobbyking and other sites.


They have done all the numbers, FT packs work just fine. All of the numbers are a bit overwhelming. If you're lost, feel free to ask for help.
 

sprzout

Knower of useless information
Mentor
I'm curious as to what the general consensus is on the electronics in the power pod kits? Seems to me like they did all the math and wrap everything up, especially for us noobs. I get lost in numbers when I look at parts on hobbyking and other sites.

They did. :) There's a lot involved with getting the right props, the right ESC, the right motor, and the right battery, and not letting the magic blue smoke out. :)

If you want to get an idea of how things go together before putting together your own power pack, try using an online calculator like Ecalc to get an idea of what amperages you need, approximate wattages from the motor, atc. It's not perfect, because it's going based on formulas, but it at least gets you some ideas of what will work. :)
 

Tjhochha

Active member
I have a power pack B running on a 1300mAh 3 cell for the simple cub and 150% FT Corsair and so far nothing is even warm after a full flight.

This is probably a stupid question and I don't mean to hijack this thread but, when using twin power pods, do I have to do anything special to tie the two ESC's together to the receiver? i.e. is the BEC power being linked going to mess with the ESC's? I will have to wire them with a y connector for now, my antique radio is only a 4 channel so no diff thrust for me until I get a new radio.
 

Arcfyre

Elite member
I have a power pack B running on a 1300mAh 3 cell for the simple cub and 150% FT Corsair and so far nothing is even warm after a full flight.

This is probably a stupid question and I don't mean to hijack this thread but, when using twin power pods, do I have to do anything special to tie the two ESC's together to the receiver? i.e. is the BEC power being linked going to mess with the ESC's? I will have to wire them with a y connector for now, my antique radio is only a 4 channel so no diff thrust for me until I get a new radio.

When I built my sea duck I pulled the red wire out of the receiver connector on one of the ESCs. This means that it only has signal and ground connections and does not send any power to the receiver.
 

Merv

Site Moderator
Staff member
is the BEC power being linked going to mess with the ESC's?

It could. You only want 1 source of power (positive) coming to the Rx. You'll need the negative & signal wires from both ESC's connected but only one positive. If you want to use a standalone BEC, then don't connect any of the positives from the ESC's.
 

sprzout

Knower of useless information
Mentor
I have a power pack B running on a 1300mAh 3 cell for the simple cub and 150% FT Corsair and so far nothing is even warm after a full flight.

This is probably a stupid question and I don't mean to hijack this thread but, when using twin power pods, do I have to do anything special to tie the two ESC's together to the receiver? i.e. is the BEC power being linked going to mess with the ESC's? I will have to wire them with a y connector for now, my antique radio is only a 4 channel so no diff thrust for me until I get a new radio.

I have a Y connector for the XT-60 connections, and then one connection going into throttle, the other going into rudder. I have a mix set up in my radio for differential thrust, so I can use the motors to yaw the plane, as suggested. It works out really well!