Print Bed Material reviews.

LitterBug

Techno Nut
Moderator
Post up your reviews of print bed materials that you print on and how well they work with different types of filaments for adhesion and removal of prints.

IE: Glass, Glue stick, ABS Slurry, PEI tape, Kapton tape, BuildTak, Blue Painter's tape, etc....


Cheers!
LitterBug
 
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willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
Blue painter's tape for me. I add some elmer's glue stick for the ABS prints. Larger ABS prints have issues with keeping their adhesion at the extremities but usually printing on a raft solves it.
 

rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
For about 2 years I tried printing PLA with blue tape, kapton tape, glue stick, aluminum, glass, heated and cold bed. Never had consistently good results - one method would work for a couple weeks, and stop. Or the edges would curl up if parts were thick. Or I'd practically rip the machine apart trying to get the print off.

Then I picked up a can of Aquanet. Actually I tried 2 other hair sprays first, which didn't work any better than the other sketchy methods, cause they weren't made from the right chemical. Then I got the can of Aquanet Super Hold Unscented hair spray. And I have not had a PLA print fail to stick to the bed in almost two years, using both aluminum and glass surfaces. Still using that same can too.

(Wow - I really went back and checked, and yeah - I've been mucking about with 3d printers for almost four years.... geeze... starting to feel old..)
 
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jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
It depends :)

With ABS the only thing I've found that works reliably is slurry. I've tried rafts, I've tried gluestick, I've tried hairspray, I've tried various tapes (PEI, Kapton, Blue Painters) - on both glass and aluminum...and while some ABS's will work with some prints with hairspray or gluestick it's not consistent. Slurry, works on almost anything ABS - if it doesn't stick with slurry then it's probably not going to stick.

With PLA, almost anything works if it's halfway decent PLA. I've had two rolls of cheap PLA that were troublesome - the rest...stick to just about anything. I mostly use either blue tape, or hairspray on either glass or aluminum depending on what's handy, how my printer is currently setup, and whether I want a smooth surface or not. My favorite is hairspray on glass for the ultra smooth 1st layer it gives - but right now I can't run glass on my printer (experimenting with a thicker al plate to see if it makes my inductive sensor more reliable) and don't want to put hairspray right on the plate I'm using so I've been using blue tape. Has been working great but I'm not a fan of the textured surface it leaves. I've also used gluestick - quicker to apply than hairspray but messier so I'm not a huge fan.

PETG, again I like hairspray on glass best. Gluestick works but again it's messier, blue tape isn't great for PETG.

TPU - basically the same, I like hairspray on glass best, gluestick works (but is even messier to clean off of TPU it seems) and blue tape works as well.

Nylon - I was warned to use G10 as a print surface for nylon...didn't have great luck with it. Hairspray on glass has worked fine for me though. Haven't experimented with more options on Nylon though due to my issues with getting nylon to print reliably.

I have a sheet of glass with PEI on it but haven't had great luck with it. Not sure if it's just poor quality PEI or if I need to give it a quick sanding or something...not nearly as impressed with it as I expected to be based on other reports.

For Hairspray I use the aquanet rockyboy posted. Bought a can the week I got my printer and it still feels mostly full. I usually just put down a fresh layer every dozen or so prints, then when it starts to get built up I clean it off with some windex. To start on clean glass I use 3 light coats letting them dry in between.

For glue just purple elmers sticks, Same basic method, few light coats at first then fresh when needed and clean it all off when it starts to build up (which happens faster than with hairspray.)

Honestly I've found that quality of filament makes a bigger difference. Cheap ABS and cheap PLA (The cheap stuff I had is no longer available or was of questionable provenance so I won't call it out again.) just don't stick well to anything in my experience - but decent stuff sticks well to most common bed preps.
 

French

Construire Voler S'écraser Répéter
I always print PLA and TPU on glass with elmers glue stick. Works great every time. No rafts.
PLA is on a room temp bed. I heat the bed to 50° for TPU.

I use this for removal - https://www.amazon.com/ToyBuilder-L...TF8&qid=1510007349&sr=8-3&keywords=3d+spatula
31vIt7tpDfL._SX342_.jpg
 
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ElectriSean

Eternal Student
Mentor
I've had pretty good luck just using the stock PEI covered bed that the Prusa I3 comes with. I haven't tried many materials yet, mostly PLA and TPU, and a tiny bit of ABS.
 

sprzout

Knower of useless information
Mentor
My dad uses glue stick on the PEI bed for his stock Prusa i3...His first few prints that he tried to run wouldn't stick, and when I looked at the sensors for bed leveling, I found that it was off by almost a full centimeter - the head wasn't getting close enough to the bed to get the PLA to stick.

Made an adjustment, and stuff started sticking with no glue stick, but on some of the stuff that's been thin wall (he printed one of 3DLabPrint's Spitfires) he used a glue stick to get the first layer to lay down properly. After that, everything else was smooth as butter! :)
 

LitterBug

Techno Nut
Moderator
I've been 3D printing for about a year with a vendor crippled enclosed printer( XYZ Davinci 1.0A). They want you to use nothing but their 3X overpriced underquality filament and have DRM Chips in the cartridges that limit the max printhead and bed temperatures that can be used. The firmware also has some similar limits set so if you hack the cartridges to use temperatures outside their "preset allowed range" it will intentially underheat and produce horrid results. So this severely limits my ability to get the print head and build surface to the optimal temperatures for adhesion. Once the warranty is up, I will be flashing Repetier firmware on it unlocking the full potential. For the time being, I have been having fairly good luck with hacking the cartridges to reset the length and using HatchBox PLA and Inland ABS with the Stock XYZ PLA/ABS or lower temperatures. (actually have to use lower temperatures for HatchBox PLA than XYZ PLA)

What I have printed on so far with these limitations:

Plain glass/ glass with glue stick:
The print bed is 8"x8" heated glass so that helps some with the adhesion. The original XYZ blue ABS cartridge that came with the printer actually did fairly well printing directly on the glass, but had horrible layer adhesion. Started printing 3DLabprint parts with XYZ Clear PLA, and it didn't do too bad on plain glass, but needed glue stick applied on longer runs. Really wish I could find more of the stick that came with the printer because it has worked much better than the Elmers glue sticks with PLA. I had really bad experiences with some of the other XYZ cartridges and horrible response from XYZ in getting replacements. Totally gave up on their products at that point and have been playing with other Filament since. Most ABS filaments need more heat than the printer will let me choose and have had bad adhesion to the bed and layers. I got lucky with this spool of Inland ABS black that I'm using now.

Build Tak:
After having miserable bed adhesion results trying to print ABS with various glue sticks, I decided to try Build Tak. This stuff sticks TOO good even with my limited temperature settings. It was almost impossible to get some prints off without damaging the Tak. Even after several months of printing, there is still some remnants of a failed bright green PLA print that has been printed over numerous times. Unfortunately, I really butchered the sheet up this week when I made a mistake setting initial layer height to 0 and the infill created a really nice pattern across the whole bed. Tried so hard not to butcher it up removing the print, but in the end, it just was not worth the effort to spend hours trying to clean it up so I went ahead and pulled the Tak off.

Blue Painters Tape:
Had a pack of 10 8x10 sheets of blue painters tape, so figured I would give it a try. Managed to get two or three small ABS prints in on a sheet, but when I started printing things as large as the print bed that took a long time to print, It ended up scrunching up and coming up with the print. The scrunching allowed parts to shrink more than I was experiencing printing with the Build Tak, so not wanting to have to redo all my parts to compensate for this new shrinkage, I decided to move on to something else. Also was not keen on the idea of having to change tape often since I've been doing a bunch of large prints lately.

PEI:
Found a sheet of this that was on the Open Box shelf at the store. Can't imagine paying list price for this stuff. But maybe after I print on it for a while, my mind will change. Only time will tell. With the bed leveled correctly, this stuff works really nice. Got two 4+ hour ABS runs in last night hitting all four edges of the print bed with no lifting. Running the bet temperature at the recommended 85C for ABS. After the bed cooled down, the print easily released with no issues. It is not as forgiving as the Build Tak is. Proper leveling and getting the correct amount of squish on the first level is key to this material working good. Finish is almost as smooth as glass.

Cheers!
LitterBug

Edit: Got a 12hour edge to edge ABS print in last night and again it was absolutely flawless running PEI at 85C. Seems to be very picky about proper squish, but if you take the time to get perfect level and squish, it is a very nice material to print on.
 
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ViperTech

Member
I've been printing for oh let's see about 3 days now and all I have is PLA and blue tape so I am gaining some insight from this thread! I have only had 1 object lift off so far but I think, i'm pretty sure I did not have the nozzle quite low enough yet, rechecked and set nozzle height and bed level and has been ok so far.

FYI I bought a prusai3 clone.