If they're being printed on a plotter you might want to rotate some of the parts so all the tabs & holes are aligned in the same direction.
If the plotter they're using isn't precisely calibrated then if you don't do this your tabs may not line up properly with the holes they're supposed to slot into.
I've been using a vinyl cutter to cut through the top layer of paper on my foam board. It's only a cheap Chinesium one and it was originally printing in the X axis about 2% larger than in the Y axis. Not a problem when printing signage, but a major issue when printing parts which have to fit together precisely. This can be fixed in software if you have the machine in front of you but if you're subbing the job out you'll want to minimize the effects of any miscalibration (which you won't have any control over). The easiest way to do this is just to rotate the parts so they're printed in the orientation they'll end up on the plane.
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To speed things up and make life easier on the printer I remove all the hash marks (blue/orange lines) & purple dots. This removes the complexity of printing hundreds of unnecessary tiny lines and thousands of unnecessary tiny dots which would otherwise add thousands of potential points for the steppers to lose sync. This is easy enough to do in Inkscape once you've imported your pdf... select one of the hash marks, Edit > Select same > Path Color. Then delete.
I also convert all the dashed score lines into solid lines. This is a bit of a pain to to on larger, more complex models but having solid score lines makes it much easier to finish off with a knife.
For recent prints I've also taken to spending the time to edit & optimize the SVG file Inkscape creates so the order & direction of each path is such that it minimizes cutter head movement and so it cuts one part completely before starting on the next. This can significantly speed up print times and minimizes the chances of any issues should the steppers miss a few steps (something which cheap Chinese ones are known to do).
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This part is vinyl cutter specific, but I've also now began adding overcuts at the start of each path so when the cutter starts a new line the head has a few mm to spin into the right orientation on some of the spoil before it starts cutting the actual piece. If you don't do this you get tiny bits of ripped paper at the corners where lines meet. Not a huge deal, but it doesn't take that long to extend the lines lines out a few mm on each part while I'm optimizing the paths anyway.
