Rainbow Butterfly Princess.
- Thread starter TEAJR66
- Start date
Build Log.
Determine your motor mounting configuration. This will help with cutting out the pieces. There are some score cuts and cavities that can be ignored depending on how you mount your motor. There are a couple motor mounts available here on Thingiverse. Choose the one that suits your preference. Or, you can use an FT Mini Power Pod.
With an FT Mini Power Pod,
you don't need to make any of these score cuts.
You can also ignore those scores and cavities, if you use this mount (one of the thingiverse files).
With this mount (also one of the thingiverse files), you will make the cavities in the bottom plate.
Ok, so you get your motor mounting choices sorted, go ahead and cut all the parts.
We will start with the center fuselage and canopy.
Remove the paper from the front of the nose.
Open up the cavities along the score cuts. And remove this cut through.
Hot glues along the cavities and "B" Fold.
Remove the foam from the score cuts to open the cavities in the forward fuselage plate.
Pay attention for the longer straight end. That is the bottom.
The bottom lines up with the bottom of the fuselage.
Once you have the correct edges identified, remove the paper from the inside of the fuselage plate.
Glue the long straight edges. Then form the foam as you work forward and glue along the way.
Next we will do the hatch.
Remove the foam from the fold cavities and the paper from the front of the hatch.
Form the curve in the front section.
Once the curve is formed, make an "A" Fold.
Use some tape to make a pull tab.
Fit the hatch into the fuse.
Save the V Stab till the end.
Take the wing spars and fold them along the score cut. Glue them together flat.
Place the two wing halves on the table with the score cuts down.
Use a small bit of tape to join the two halves.
Flip the two halves over, score cuts up, and open the seem for gluing.
Flip the wing over again and tape along the bottom of the wing.
Flip the wing over and use a strip of tape along the leading edge and trim the ends.
Flip it over, again, and open up the score cuts.
Fold the wing backwards along the leading edge and make a double bevel cut.
Open the Spar slots on the wing bottom.
Squeeze the edges of the spar tabs to help them slip into the slots.
Test fit then glue the spars into place.
Exaggerate the fold over to help make the wing form.
Lay the upper plate of the along the spar and check the edge alignment. The alignment at the wing tip is the priority. Work the folds till the wing lays naturally with the proper alignment.
When you are happy with the fold over, open the wing and put a thin bead of glue down the two score cuts of one wing panel.
Hold the wing in the folded over position till the glue cools and forms the airfoil. Do not glue the wing closed yet.
Do that for both wing halves.
In this build, i used a paint stirrer for a spar. The spar is centered and moved as far forward as possible. I've used arrow shafts (way overkill). Whatever you use as a spar, test fit to make sure that it does not interfere with the wing edges meeting once the wing is closed.
Paint stirrers also make a great mounting point for gyros or Flight Controllers.
Open the servo slots and insert servos.
Fold the wing over to help the servo seat naturally with interfering with the wing shape.
Open the wing and put some hot glue around the perimeter of the servo and glue it in place. Then tape the servo lead along the inner edge of the wing.
Place a bead of glue in the leading edge and along the top of the spar. Then close the wing. Pay close attention to the alignment at the wing tips. Once the glue dries, clear away any excess that oozed out of the ends.
Place a piece of tape along the elevon hinge line.
Bend the elevons up to open the score cut and get the elevon out of the way to glue closed the trailing edge.
Then fold over the elevons and make the bevel cuts. I also like to make it a glue hinge.
In this iteration, i did not need the score cuts at the rear of the fuselage. I smeared hot glue over the cuts and taped over them to make that section solid again.
In this iteration i used an FT Mini Power Pod. Glued centered along the score lines in the bottom panel and flush with the rear edge of the fuselage.
Mount your motor and connect the ESC. This is a great time to check rotation. Feed the esc through the fuselage.
Test fit the fuselage and identify the bottom edges that come in contact with the bottom plate. Place glue along the bottom edges to glue in place.
Finish the fuselage installation by gluing along the wing/fuselage seam.
I used hook and pile fastener to secure the ESC to one side of the fuse and the receiver to the other. Then i used some along bottom of the fuse to secure the battery.
Center the servos and connect the servo arms, push rods and control horns. Set the reflex by placing one thickness of foam under the elevon with the bottom of the wing panel sitting flat on the table. This model is very responsive and does not require a lot of control throw. I used the outer most hole on the FT control horns.
The V Stab goes on next.
The winglets go on last.
After a test fit, run some glue around the end of the wingtip put the winglets in place.
CG is right at the inner most rear corner of the spar slot.
If you have any build questions, feel free to ask.
If you build one, i hope you enjoy it as much as i have. Please post pics and flight video.
Determine your motor mounting configuration. This will help with cutting out the pieces. There are some score cuts and cavities that can be ignored depending on how you mount your motor. There are a couple motor mounts available here on Thingiverse. Choose the one that suits your preference. Or, you can use an FT Mini Power Pod.
With an FT Mini Power Pod,
You can also ignore those scores and cavities, if you use this mount (one of the thingiverse files).
With this mount (also one of the thingiverse files), you will make the cavities in the bottom plate.
Ok, so you get your motor mounting choices sorted, go ahead and cut all the parts.
We will start with the center fuselage and canopy.
Remove the paper from the front of the nose.
Open up the cavities along the score cuts. And remove this cut through.
Hot glues along the cavities and "B" Fold.
Remove the foam from the score cuts to open the cavities in the forward fuselage plate.
Pay attention for the longer straight end. That is the bottom.
The bottom lines up with the bottom of the fuselage.
Once you have the correct edges identified, remove the paper from the inside of the fuselage plate.
Glue the long straight edges. Then form the foam as you work forward and glue along the way.
Next we will do the hatch.
Remove the foam from the fold cavities and the paper from the front of the hatch.
Form the curve in the front section.
Once the curve is formed, make an "A" Fold.
Use some tape to make a pull tab.
Fit the hatch into the fuse.
Save the V Stab till the end.
Take the wing spars and fold them along the score cut. Glue them together flat.
Place the two wing halves on the table with the score cuts down.
Use a small bit of tape to join the two halves.
Flip the two halves over, score cuts up, and open the seem for gluing.
Flip the wing over again and tape along the bottom of the wing.
Flip the wing over and use a strip of tape along the leading edge and trim the ends.
Flip it over, again, and open up the score cuts.
Fold the wing backwards along the leading edge and make a double bevel cut.
Open the Spar slots on the wing bottom.
Squeeze the edges of the spar tabs to help them slip into the slots.
Test fit then glue the spars into place.
Exaggerate the fold over to help make the wing form.
Lay the upper plate of the along the spar and check the edge alignment. The alignment at the wing tip is the priority. Work the folds till the wing lays naturally with the proper alignment.
When you are happy with the fold over, open the wing and put a thin bead of glue down the two score cuts of one wing panel.
Hold the wing in the folded over position till the glue cools and forms the airfoil. Do not glue the wing closed yet.
Do that for both wing halves.
In this build, i used a paint stirrer for a spar. The spar is centered and moved as far forward as possible. I've used arrow shafts (way overkill). Whatever you use as a spar, test fit to make sure that it does not interfere with the wing edges meeting once the wing is closed.
Paint stirrers also make a great mounting point for gyros or Flight Controllers.
Open the servo slots and insert servos.
Fold the wing over to help the servo seat naturally with interfering with the wing shape.
Open the wing and put some hot glue around the perimeter of the servo and glue it in place. Then tape the servo lead along the inner edge of the wing.
Place a bead of glue in the leading edge and along the top of the spar. Then close the wing. Pay close attention to the alignment at the wing tips. Once the glue dries, clear away any excess that oozed out of the ends.
Place a piece of tape along the elevon hinge line.
Bend the elevons up to open the score cut and get the elevon out of the way to glue closed the trailing edge.
Then fold over the elevons and make the bevel cuts. I also like to make it a glue hinge.
In this iteration, i did not need the score cuts at the rear of the fuselage. I smeared hot glue over the cuts and taped over them to make that section solid again.
In this iteration i used an FT Mini Power Pod. Glued centered along the score lines in the bottom panel and flush with the rear edge of the fuselage.
Mount your motor and connect the ESC. This is a great time to check rotation. Feed the esc through the fuselage.
Test fit the fuselage and identify the bottom edges that come in contact with the bottom plate. Place glue along the bottom edges to glue in place.
Finish the fuselage installation by gluing along the wing/fuselage seam.
I used hook and pile fastener to secure the ESC to one side of the fuse and the receiver to the other. Then i used some along bottom of the fuse to secure the battery.
Center the servos and connect the servo arms, push rods and control horns. Set the reflex by placing one thickness of foam under the elevon with the bottom of the wing panel sitting flat on the table. This model is very responsive and does not require a lot of control throw. I used the outer most hole on the FT control horns.
The V Stab goes on next.
The winglets go on last.
After a test fit, run some glue around the end of the wingtip put the winglets in place.
CG is right at the inner most rear corner of the spar slot.
If you have any build questions, feel free to ask.
If you build one, i hope you enjoy it as much as i have. Please post pics and flight video.
Last edited:
2jujube7
Well-known member
Same, It looks Beautiful!
PsyBorg
Wake up! Time to fly!
I have to crack up every time I see this thread. All I picture in big ole ruff n tumble soldier TJ trying to explain to a little girl why the plane shouldn't be named something better suited to a doll then an air plane. Then losing most egregiously to a little princess rocking back and forth batting her eyes at him knowing the power she has over him and enjoying every minute watching him squirm. 
PsyBorg
Wake up! Time to fly!
Tommy asked his "friends" to help him name his plane. We can be a little mean sometimes.
What are friends for right? They can throw you under the bus for traction at will but they wont let anyone else so much as step on your sneakers.
2jujube7
Well-known member
Wow, he has some great friends who come up with the best names! What did you mean when you said "mean"???Tommy asked his "friends" to help him name his plane. We can be a little mean sometimes.
Wow, he has some great friends who come up with the best names! What did you mean when you said "mean"???
noun
noun: mean; plural noun: means
- 1.
the value obtained by dividing the sum of several quantities by their number; an average.
2jujube7
Well-known member
Oh, okay. Thanks for the clarification, it makes sense now.noun
noun: mean; plural noun: means
Duh!
- 1.
the value obtained by dividing the sum of several quantities by their number; an average.
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