FAQ
My printer will only print letter sized paper. So where are all the 8.5X11 versions? - Short answer, it's easier to do larger paper sizes (11X17 and 24X36 Arch D). Not only for designing but for building as well. Having them printed at a store like Staples or Office Max. It might cost a bit (.78 to 1.30 per page for 11X17 and $6 for a n Arch D 24x36) but you will get a more durable image. Toner is plastic after all. Long answer is that it's also boring and a bit of a pain to do them (effectively) in 8.5X11. I don't like the way apps do the clipping of images. I do all mine by hand in Illustrator so it takes longer. Time I could spend doing other things! Like more designs!
You however can print out larger sheets on your letter sized printer. Use Adobe Acrobat Reader (It's free) and do "Poster" printing (aka tiling) to print a large sheet onto smaller sheets that you cut and put back together.
Do you take requests? - Sure but this is not my full time job and the "to get done"list is already very long. See the next post.
Can I have your original art files? - Short answer - No. I already provide the PDF skins for free. I lock the PDF's to deter (a bit) the unscrupulous. Original files are not securable. I hope you understand.
How can I make my own skins? - You bet! Learn how to use a a vector based art program like Inkscape. This makes using FT plans easier. Inkscape is free and there are plenty of videos from the University of YouTube.
Community members like Rockyboy are even putting some tips and step by step instructions in their threads.
Basic build tips when using skins
- Printing - Please check your Print Dialog box and make sure that under "Page Size & Handling" that the "Actual size" button is checked and NOT the "Fit" button. If "Fit" was chosen it can result in smaller sized prints even when the correct paper size is selected. So far this one tip, if not done, has wasted more time and money than anything else!
- These are not beginner builds! You must be comfortable with the flite Test build method. I would also advise you build a few before attempting this. I learned much from my first build.
- It is advisable that you download the full plans and have them available for viewing before beginning your build. You will need them for reference as score lines are usually not on the skin kits.
- P51 - The extra turtle deck - It was the one piece I had the most issue with. The extra non-curved one was a last minute fail safe. In case something went wonky with a build, the builder would have this to use as a backup to custom cut.
- Horizontal stabs - Do not cut out the two tabs that engage the fuse on the top skin. It is unnecessary and will detract from the look.
- The Wing - I opted to just remove all the paper and only use the skins. I think after the spar is in it will be more than sufficiently strong. Take extra care in trimming the edges where the wing halves come together.
- When a piece has two sides covered with skins:
- Rough cut one side of the skin from the paper
- Take an appropriate sized section of foam and peal the paper from both sides.
- Glue it to the foam
- Trim the foam to the skin. You should have the individual part shape at this point.
- Trim the other skin for the other side of the foam.
- Carefully align the second side skin to the foam and glue it in place.
- The bottom of the fuselage - Take extra care when gluing the two bottom sections into place. Panel lines should line up and the paper on the edges should be flush for a clean look.
- Sheeting - To keep the color between pieces the same I printed out everything on the same paper - 24lbs or 20lbs bond (75 or 90 gsm). For parts that require card stock, I just glued the printed sheet with a blank sheet to make it thicker, then cut the piece out.
- Sharpie Touch Ups - Use black, light gray and medium to dark olive Sharpie for touch ups.
- Weathering Tip - Use a silver fine tip Sharpie to simulate paint chipping.
- P51 only - Landing Gear - You have several options in the gear and bay area. As a belly lander, cut and glue part of the gear bay doors so it overlaps the wing and fuselage. For a mustang with gear down, cut and glue in the "open bay" graphic, Again overlap the wing and fuse. Use the remaining gear doors to make yourself some killer looking landing gear! Can't wait for someone to do this!
- Belly Landings - Protect you plane when doing belly landings so it stays awesome looking longer. Using packing tape on the undersides of the fuselage.
