Really strange interference.

[Oske]

So I got my vtx yesterday, and I've been tinkering around with my set up for multiple hours but I can't get a clear image. There were 2 occasions where the image was crystal clear but I have no idea how I did it. I'm getting this weird interference on 3/4 of the screen where there's white horizontal lines across the screen. I've checked my manual for interference issues, and I've tried changing band, channel, and location but nothing is working. I have the cable for the camera soldered directly to the cable for the vtx but there's still problems (I'm led to assume its a hardware issue). I can't explain it. Any help would be appreciated.

https://youtu.be/r92--u8NO5c

 

[French]

Very odd. Can you explain what components you have (cam, VTX, antenna, goggles/monitor) and how everything is wired up? Did you only replace the VTX? Was everything else functioning fine before?

 

[kpixels]

Hi Oske, It's not sitting near your wifi router, is it?

 

[Oske]

Very odd. Can you explain what components you have (cam, VTX, antenna, goggles/monitor) and how everything is wired up? Did you only replace the VTX? Was everything else functioning fine before?

I'm using the Eachine TX801 VTX, X220 camera, VR007 pro goggles and some k-loverleaves anennas. I have the leads from the camera directly soldered to the leads on the vtx (everything is where it should be) and this is my first ever fpv setup so I don't really know what I'm doing. I suspect that's why this is an issue in the first place.

 

[Oske]

Hi Oske, It's not sitting near your wifi router, is it?

Well my room is sitting right next to my router but I shut off the wifi, still had the same problem. Go out to a local field and still having the problem, go to the field my club flies at, still having the problem. I don't think its interference from wifi (although it may be actually).

 

[French]

Lets start with the easy items.

Is the VTX powered directly off of the battery voltage on the first red and black wires (7 - 24 volts; 2S to 6S)?

What Letter and Numbers are the display on the VTX showing?

The letter should be A, B, E, F, R, U, O, L or H to show which band you are on. In the US you need to only mess with the A, B, E, F, R bands. I prefer sticking to the F or R band, personally.

The first number (1-8) will be your channel.

The second number (flash twice) will also be 1-8. This will be your power level.

Once we know that info, you want to make sure the corresponding band and channel is selected on your VR007 Pros. Just doing an autoscan may not match up the correct frequency. It looks like on those, a short press of the + button changes the channel (first number) and a short press of the - button changes the band (letter).

I also just did some comparing and it appears the letter (band) for your goggles will not likely match the letter (band) for your VTX.

VTX Band - Goggles Band
A - A
b - B
E - C
F - D
r - E

 

[Oske]

Lets start with the easy items.

Is the VTX powered directly off of the battery voltage on the first red and black wires (7 - 24 volts; 2S to 6S)?

What Letter and Numbers are the display on the VTX showing?

The letter should be A, B, E, F, R, U, O, L or H to show which band you are on. In the US you need to only mess with the A, B, E, F, R bands. I prefer sticking to the F or R band, personally.

The first number (1-8) will be your channel.

The second number (flash twice) will also be 1-8. This will be your power level.

Once we know that info, you want to make sure the corresponding band and channel is selected on your VR007 Pros. Just doing an autoscan may not match up the correct frequency. It looks like on those, a short press of the + button changes the channel (first number) and a short press of the - button changes the band (letter).

I also just did some comparing and it appears the letter (band) for your goggles will not likely match the letter (band) for your VTX.

VTX Band - Goggles Band
A - A
b - B
E - C
F - D
r - E

The VTX is powered separately from the main system, using a little 2s lipo. All the wiring is correct and there shouldn't be problems there. Now I did not know the bands on the vtx were different from the goggles, I'll go try that now.

 

[Oske]

Nope that didn't fix it.

 

[ElectriSean]

Is the camera powered from the VTx or somewhere else?

 

[Oske]

Is the camera powered from the VTx or somewhere else?

It's powered by the vtx.

 

[ElectriSean]

It's powered by the vtx.

Sometimes if the VTx and camera are grounded at different places you can get noise, good to rule that out. Can you test the camera with a TV or something? Many cameras come with and OSD dongle and a place to plug in a composite video cord (RCA jack).

 

[Bricks]

Check your solder joints another guy on RCG had similar problems turned out to be a bad solder joint and where are you pulling power from?

 

[Oske]

Check your solder joints another guy on RCG had similar problems turned out to be a bad solder joint and where are you pulling power from?

I am powering the system with a little 2s lipo. Also, I have gone back and redone my solder connections between the camera and vtx and that doesn't seem to be the problem, although the solder joint for the battery connector may need to be redone.

 

[PsyBorg]

Two things that stand out to me.. 2s is lowwwww power to feed a vtx capable of 600 mw AND a camera. Second is are you trying to do all this at the .001 mw setting as that may not be enough to break thru ambient noise for things like power lines radiation from a monitor or tv set.

Also I would twist all them wires the whole length to reduce signal induction as well as make sure they are not running parallel to any other power feeds in your build. I usually try and run my video wires on the top plate just so I keep them from all the noisy power feeds of esc, pdbs and such lower in the stack. The wires for this run were so long I took the time and braided them to make them easier to work with instead of fighting them as they tried to twist around on themselves and bunch up.