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Solved Recommend 1 cell battery with typically servo connector for fatshark 25w camera,

CheckMySix

Active member
#1
Hey guy,

Getting my feet wet (maybe dirty) with my first FPV rig. What a different world. So, I got a cheap Fatshark Recon v2 and the little VTX 25W camera. Figure no need to destroy high dollar stuff learning.
So, I'm getting a ton of interference and I think, in talking with some guys out and the local RC field, it is from using the reciever as the camera power source. We're thinking a little 1S battery. But, finding one with a simple servo type connector may be a challenge. Figure I'd ask here first since I'm not the only person with this bright idea lol. Also, the fatshark bundle has zero instructions or specs. Was PnP easy enough but, not sure what the voltage on the camera is. Suspect it's a range. Just not sure if 3.7v will cut it.
It was really bad today when I was using my simple cub wing with flaps.,I have the camera on channel five and flaps on 6. Every time I hit aileron or really and control I get lines and bars. Not totally unusable but if better works, better get it!
Open to any ideas or tricks!

Thanks y'all!
 

CheckMySix

Active member
#3
You could try a capacitor or a separate BEC. No idea if your vTX will run on 1s. If you don’t have any documentation, you will need to try it out.

Here is a list of common 1s battery connectors https://www.micronwings.com/HintsAndTips/RCConnecorTypes/index.shtml
Thanks man. I emailed fatshark but... not very confident. Seems like most of their cameras range from 3.7v to 5v. Thing is, low voltage can be as damaging as over voltage. But, it's like a $16 camera lol. Get what u pay for. Guess you gotta spend big fatshark $$$ to get things like specs in the box lol. It's all good.
 

CheckMySix

Active member
#4
Just realized I had the camera itself saved on an amazon list and it says power input range is 5-13v. Interesting.
I haven't used/got to a BEC yet. So, I could run that separately with just the camera in it? Don't meet to connect the BEC to the receiver in any way. That should eliminate signal crosstalk. Or, just shielded cable. Hmmm... would a BEC be the best solution weight wise? I'm already getting 12-15 minutes in the battery but weight equals time.😁🤪
 

CheckMySix

Active member
#6
I run my FPV straight off my 3S flight pack. I made a connector to tap the balance plug.
Merv... you magnificent $astard.... I was just thinking about that 10 minutes ago! So, just an female balance connector to a servo connector. Brilliant! The camera is rated to 13v so yea... covered there. As much flite time as I already get outta the 3s 1550s... should be plenty good. Set my timer at 12 mins and rarely drop below 3.75 per cell even with then 10x6 prop I played with this weekend.
I guess great minds do think alike....lol.
 

FDS

Well-known member
#8
I like a filtered power supply to my FPV, it’s easier to just run a simple BEC for it, either off the balance plug or main battery cable. Two wires in from the battery, two wires out to the camera + VTX, job done.
 

CheckMySix

Active member
#9
I just got a 10x6 to try on my old power pack c. I haven’t been able to fly off it yet, but I’m excited to try it.
It had some crazy left torque, especially when you lay on the throttle. But, I shimmed between the motor mount and firewall and that helped. Haven't tried it back on the 10x6 yet but on a 9x6 it was actually pulling right on takeoff. So, I took one shim/washer out and really like it!
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I like a filtered power supply to my FPV, it’s easier to just run a simple BEC for it, either off the balance plug or main battery cable. Two wires in from the battery, two wires out to the camera + VTX, job done.
 

CheckMySix

Active member
#10
I like a filtered power supply to my FPV, it’s easier to just run a simple BEC for it, eithler off the balance plug or main battery cable. Two wires in from the battery, two wires out to the camera + VTX, job done.
Yea, I'm gonna head down to my local hobby shop. They stock all kinds of connectors. Just thinking like Merv's rig. Get a Male balance connector (for 3s since that's the battery in the cubbie) and wire it to male servo connector.

Now, what I'm not certain of and maybe you can help...
Is the white wire on the camera signal or power? My guess is white is signal/video and red is power?

Pretty happy with my rush job to mount the camera. Ended up working pretty well. I didn't want to glue or permanently fix it to the cub so I can use it on future planes. I dug out the shelf for it a bit so its stable with the rubber bands. Turned out better than expected when I got a little crazy on a fast landing and rolled the cubbie. Wing is high enough that the antenna didn't get hurt.
That and... I figured I'd probably bonk it on a wall or in the trunk transporting it as I'm know to do...lol.
The battery is in the power pod and pretty much just under the camera. Should make easy access. Wonder if shielded cable will help too. Lots of RF and crosstalk (as we say in the telephony world) does happen. Wonder if I can even find shielded that small. 😋😁
 

Attachments

FDS

Well-known member
#11
White is Smart Audio, it’s used on Flight Controllers to allow you to change the VTX settings via the radio and goggles.
You won’t need to connect that wire, just put the red and black power wires to the power out on the BEC. You don’t need any connectors, just splice into the battery lead and connect those to the BEC. You can use a simple 2 pin JST if you want, but I don’t always bother. Direct wiring is fine, the BEC usually has solder pads on.
Shielding wont be require, you can just put a twist in the cable. You might find being too close to the motor will give some interference when the plane is coming towards you.
If you go to the hobby store just buy a separate BEC, it will give a smoother and better power delivery than battery direct.
 

CheckMySix

Active member
#12
I like a filtered power supply to my FPV, it’s easier to just run a simple BEC for it, either off the balance plug or main battery cable. Two wires in from the battery, two wires out to the camera + VTX, job done.
Just called my local shop, Duncan's RC and they'll wire up and solder the connectors for me, better them and pay for it then rely on my soldering skills lol. Been 20 years since I did computer break/fix work and even then my soldering was pretty ugly!
Luckily my battery sits pretty much under the camera mount/shelf but need that slack for sliding in and out the power pack. About 5" and I'll be good to go.
I love it when a plan comes together.
Thanks for the replies and input folks. Safety first...then teamwork! 😋😁
 

FDS

Well-known member
#13
You are talking about cutting the plug off the camera, then soldering two wires to the BEC, then two wire splices to the main battery lead off the ESC, which needs de soldering the XT60, that’s 6 simple joints, 4 of which are only pads. It’s worth re learning to solder, you will need to do it all the time to repair and make new planes and gear. Practice on scrap wire and some copper clad or old PCB from dead home appliances.
 

CheckMySix

Active member
#14
Update
Oh how I love simple yet elegant fixes lol! Had the boys at Duncan's RC wire up a new harness from camera to balance lead and no more interference. Works beautifully, lightweight and simple and long enough so I can still pull out the pod and get at battery.
Figured I'd keep the prop experimenting going as well. Liked to 10x5 so much...lets see of 11 can heat up the ESC yet....lol.
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