Robbie's Supercharged Racing Build!!!

[Robbie]

Hey guys,

Just thought i would share my lastest build,

Build:

• ZMR 250 6"
• Naze 32 (who really needs F3)
• Rotorgeeks V2 30A
• RCtimer 2208 2600kv (thanks Cyberd)
• HQ 6045
• 1800mah 4S
• 800mw 1.3Ghz
• Sony 600tvl Super HAD mini CCD 30 degrees tilt
• Thug PDB

This is my Old 280 Night hawk served me well as a basher quad but by the end the whole frame was flexing and it shorted out all 4 ESCs when the PBD cracked. So i have bought a ZMR (thanks Jipp).


This is how not to safely solder in a 12V bec, but i covered the thing in electrical tape soooo....what could go wrong


A full set of new rotorgeeks 30A V2 to freplace my old ones, these flew really well on blheli 13 and i am really looking forward to flying on blheli 14.

Annoyingly David got rid of the programming leads from the ESCs meaning the old programer i had doesn't work any more and I am to tight to buy the new version so I have to change motor directions the old way now.


This is the thug PDB, after the disaster of my last PDB I wanted something which was simple and I knew would work well, this was a dream so solder and stacked nicely under my naze, I powered on and nothing shorted so it should be ok.


Heres the finished product, I have flown these RCtimer 2208 2600KVs on my 900g nighthawk, with this ZMR the AUW is around 620-650 on 4S, so looking foward to even more speed and agility.

Finally my PIDs are,
set pid_controller = 1
set p_pitch = 52
set i_pitch = 33
set d_pitch = 30
set p_roll = 37
set i_roll = 23
set d_roll = 30
set p_yaw = 132
set i_yaw = 68
set d_yaw = 1
set p_pitchf = 2.500
set i_pitchf = 0.600
set d_pitchf = 0.060
set p_rollf = 2.500
set i_rollf = 0.600
set d_rollf = 0.060
set p_yawf = 8.000
set i_yawf = 0.500
set d_yawf = 0.050
set level_horizon = 3.000
set level_angle = 5.000
set sensitivity_horizon = 75
set p_alt = 50
set i_alt = 0
set d_alt = 0
set p_level = 20
set i_level = 20
set d_level = 150
set p_vel = 120
set i_vel = 45
set d_vel = 1
set yaw_p_limit = 500

rc_rate = 90
set rc_expo = 65
set rc_yaw_expo = 0
set thr_mid = 50
set thr_expo = 0
set roll_rate = 70
set pitch_rate = 70
set yaw_rate = 75
set tpa_rate = 10
set tpa_breakpoint = 1500

If you guys have any suggestions or comments feel free,

I will try and get a video up ASAP, but the weather in the UK is appalling at the moment.

Robbie

 

[Cyberdactyl]

Let me know how you like the 2208's on that mini. I find them awesome on 4S. They might be slightly heavy, but they will thrust very hard using those HQ0645s.

One caveat I would offer, make sure the collets are clean of aluminum shavings up inside where the shaft goes before mounting and tighten them very well. Going from zero to the upper teens in 1000's of rpm in a second or so torques the collet hard.

 

[Robbie]

Let me know how you like the 2808's on that mini. I find them awesome on 4S. They might be slightly heavy, but they will thrust very hard using those HQ0645s.

One caveat I would offer, make sure the collets are clean of aluminum shavings up inside where the shaft goes before mounting and tighten them very well. Going from zero to the upper teens in 1000's of rpm in a second or so torques the collet hard.

Thanks for the advice, i will give them a quick look,

These motors are so powerful, when i was flying them on my Nighthawk i had to be careful becasue if I throttled to quickly the frame would bend and destablise, I am hoping the ZMR will be more rigid.

 

[FPVology]

wow.. on 4s that with HQ6040s, that sucker is prob going to scream.

 

[Robbie]

I did som guesstimates with this build AUW is 650g and I am pulling 1000~1200g on each motor 4S. That gives me a rough thrust ratio of between 6.5 and 7.5.

 

[jipp]

congrats on the new zmr.. it is a good frame i think for the price.. plus lots of support for it.. maybe no black out but hell you can buy 4 or 5 of them for the price of a black out. one thing the black out has over the basic zmr is more protection for 22 series motors.. but with new arms you can fix that. and even then unless you happen to take out a motor because of that, i do not think there is a issue to be had.. bad luck can happen on any frame.. heh.

4s should be crazy fun.

chris.

 

[Robbie]

Yeh i know, i should be like a rocket ship, also the high rates means some really fun acro

 

[Robbie]

I promised a Video

LoS works well, i have put up the rates a bit more as that was too sluggish.

FPV is still presenting a problem as the motors draw so many amps even a expensive 12V 3A bec with an LC filter still can't keep a steady video feed. I have thinking of buying a really small battery to put on my quad, just for FPV, i know its a bit of extra weight but i figure its worth it for solid video.

Robbie

 

[jipp]

nice flying. iv yet to try a flip. this winter tho.. i should make it a point to get my first flip on camera for a good laugh next year..
as i hope my flying will improve by then as i hope to get in lots of battery packs this winter/spring. that is our flying weather here in the desert for the most part.
im using s1 180mah 45C for my blade nano qx.. it would power your fpv no problem id imagine.. and the battery's weigh nothing.
chris,

 

[Cyberdactyl]

Yea, a really small 3S would do it. Run right off the balance plug.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__23339__Turnigy_nano_tech_180mah_3S_25_40C_Lipo_Pack.html

 

[jipp]

that looks like the way to go.

chris.

 

[Cyberdactyl]

It might be a poor BEC. I have been using those motors with THIS BEC for a year with no problems with 3S and 4S.

 

[Robbie]

It might be a poor BEC. I have been using those motors with THIS BEC for a year with no problems with 3S and 4S.

Thanks man, I might go with the small 180mah battery, because i am pulling almost 40A a motor sometimes and i think there simply isn't enough juice in the battery to cope, no matter how good the bec is. Also i am only putting on about 10g from taking off the bec and putting on one of those small 20g batteries

Robbie

 

[Cyberdactyl]

Yea, those little brutes will crank the power with HQ0645s, and admittedly are slightly inefficient amp monsters. On 4S they get my AfroSlims toasty even with the FETs exposed and getting the edge of the rear thrust columns.

But for less than $9, I still say they are a bargain. For mini quads, I sorta see them as a big heavy Mopar Hemi compared to Copra's, T-Motors and Sunnysky's being a 3.5L turbo.

 

[Robbie]

Yea, those little brutes will crank the power with HQ0645s, and admittedly are slightly inefficient amp monsters. On 4S they get my AfroSlims toasty even with the FETs exposed and getting the edge of the rear thrust columns.

But for less than $9, I still say they are a bargain. For mini quads, I sorta see them as a big heavy Mopar Hemi compared to Copra's, T-Motors and Sunnysky's being a 3.5L turbo.

Yeh i agree, they are simple, cheap and work. What more do you need ?

Thanks for showing me these motors a while back. I have yet to have any problems with them coupled to my Rotorgeeks 30A

 

[Cyberdactyl]

Here's rcmodelreviews latest video comparing the Sunnysky 2204 2300, the Cobra 2204 2300, and Sunnysky's MOPAR Hemi for mini quads, the 2207 2700KV.

Just as with the RcTimer 2208 2600KV, you'll see the video shows the 2700KV cranking way past the two 2204 2300's at ~40% more thrust.

He's also doing the test with the 0540BN, so I suspect with the 2700 and the 2600's bigger cans, and you using 0645 props, the thrust gap would be even more significant since the smaller 2300 would start buckling under the load. But as is clearly noted, we pay for it in efficiency and amp draw and suck the battery dry much quicker.

As a matter of fact, (and I'm sure you are also finding this out with a quad that's in the 650-750g range with 4S) . . . if I want to do a high speed test run and not dip to the battery buzzer, I have to do the run in the first 60 or so seconds in the air, unless I'm using a big 3S 2200 90c, which handle the motors well, but loads down the quad with that extra ~45g over a 90c 4S 1300.

 

[jipp]

i figured the 2204 would be the ideal because of weight.. i guess the size of the bell helps, its where if you went larger it would be less efficient ( err wrong word, i meant thrust ), so its in the goldy locks range.

so i guess for the price point these rc timer motors are a hell of a deal.

chris.

 

[Ocean]

i figured the 2204 would be the ideal because of weight.. i guess the size of the bell helps, its where if you went larger it would be less efficient ( err wrong word, i meant thrust ), so its in the goldy locks range.

so i guess for the price point these rc timer motors are a hell of a deal.

chris.

I think the sweet spot for a 250 quad is 2204 4s, since I don't believe many (if any) pilots can utilize the thrust a bigger motor can provide.

 

[Cyberdactyl]

i figured the 2204 would be the ideal because of weight.. i guess the size of the bell helps, its where if you went larger it would be less efficient ( err wrong word, i meant thrust ), so its in the goldy locks range.

so i guess for the price point these rc timer motors are a hell of a deal.

chris.

I would agree on a smart compromise. Once the motors pass ~>30g's on a 280mm mini, the weight becomes a pretty major concern in a crash unless you really start beefing up the frame, like 4mm or thicker booms.

But yea, for just raw power using HQ0645s, the 2208 2600KV motor is a blast, as I am sure the Sunnysky 2207 2700KV is the same. But again there's that caveat, with a fresh and new 1300 4S 90c Nano, I only get about 7 minutes of leisurely flying and maybe 4 minutes with the throttle above 85%, 80% of the time. If they were used in a mini race, the course would have to be smaller, in the 300 meter range, or if a large ~400-600 meter course, it would be limited to a three. . maybe four lap race.

 

[Robbie]

Oh yeh talking of weight, already broken an arm on my ZMR (that brings the broken arm count up to 5 now).

Basically doing LOS and well got a little carried away and put the rates up to 0.85 and did up up expo, needless to say did a quadrupel flip then plumpeted towards the earth...