Royal Aircraft Factory S.E.5 My first WW1 aircraft.

TooJung2Die

Master member

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FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
They look like wing spar reinforcements installed where the wings meet the fuse and above the cockpit.
 

TooJung2Die

Master member
Now that you pointed them out I see them in the wing build photo on page 1. It may be a good idea to use wood to the reinforce the spar.
 

unrauv

Active member
Use 16" hobby plywood, strong and light. Form spars are for shape and strength, but the plywood gives it that extra strength for flexing. Good example Foamy...
 
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TooJung2Die

Master member
I got a little more done. The servos are in and hooked up to the control surfaces. Putting the push rods inside guide tubes lets you use thin wire in long fuselages and saves weight. Made the firewall.
 

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foamtest

Toothpick glider kid
Looks like a great model, and very well designed too. If I ever get to this, (my build/design list is extremely long) Could make it a slow flyer with an undercambered airfoil?
 

TooJung2Die

Master member
Looks like a great model, and very well designed too. If I ever get to this, (my build/design list is extremely long) Could make it a slow flyer with an undercambered airfoil?

Vincent's plans are very accurately drawn. Anyone that has built a few airplanes is going to make changes to suit themselves. There is quite a bit of undercamber on the wings already. Since no one has built one from these plans and flown it the flight characteristics are an unknown.

Didn't have much playtime today but got a little more done. I reinforced the bottom of the nose and covered up the front. The firewall is Gorilla glued in place with some TLAR downthrust. Not a fan of the power pod idea. They always came loose and took up too much room inside.
 

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unrauv

Active member
I hear BI planes are a little nasty on take offs, but I am not expert. Great work, it good to see you going you own way with the engine mount.
 

TooJung2Die

Master member
The fuselage weighs a porky 6.3 ounces without battery, ESC, landing gear and paint. Something needs to be done to keep the weight down. I stripped the paper off the cutout wing panels and covered them on the outside surfaces with cellophane gift wrap from Dollar Tree. This gift wrap is almost like covering film. It shrinks when heated. It strengthens the foam like packing tape without all the tape seams and is much lighter than the paper. This wing is over an ounce lighter than it would've been with the paper left on. No creases on the top, it has a smooth airfoil.
Jon
 

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TooJung2Die

Master member
I hear BI planes are a little nasty on take offs, but I am not expert. Great work, it good to see you going you own way with the engine mount.

Not all of them are nasty. The Schoolgirl biplane is the easiest airplane to take off and land of all my airplanes. The FT Mini Fokker DR1 comes in second. The DR1 seems to leap into the air.
 
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TooJung2Die

Master member
Spray adhesive on the dull colored side of the film. I use this. 3M-77 or Elmers works good too I've been told. Let it dry before laying it on the foam. Smooth out wrinkles. It can be repositioned. The heat from the iron activates the adhesive so it sticks tight. The shrink temperature is below that which will melt the foam.
Jon
 

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TooJung2Die

Master member
Getting close to final assembly. The fuselage needs paint and landing gear. That'll get started today. The seams at the dihedral folds were unsightly so I covered them up with a strip of gift wrap. Looks like this will be an "untraditional" color scheme.
 

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