Saab 105 64mm 3D Printed EDF Jet

[FlyerInStyle]

Here you go - the majority of the plane should be printed with 2 perimeters and 4% infill. Some of the tail parts (tail fuselage but not tail boom and horizontal stabilizer) should be printed with 1 perimeter and 3% infill. All the control surfaces should also use 1 perimeter and 3% infill. Structural parts (the landing gear, inserts, wing spars, and control horns) should use at least 4 perimeters and 60% infill. The tires should be printed in the softest TPU you can manage with 2 perimeters and 20-35% gyroid infill depending on your preferences for how soft you want them.

For most of the parts, the orientation where they are printable should be clear, but for the fuselage parts, they should be rotated so that the arrow on each one is pointing up.
View attachment 254148 Unfortunately, this was the last plane I built before upgrading from Cura to Orca slicer, so I don't have any 3mf files.

If you've got any questions, let me know and I'll do my best to answer.

Thanks, I'll get on building it soon!

 

[FlyerInStyle]

@telnar1236 I am trying to slice this and am gettign something like this. I measured the wall thickness to bee 0.12mm which I am not sure is even doable for a 0.4mm nozzle. how did you slice it?

 

[Mr Man]

I think there should be a setting called “print thin walls”. I think that’s what you need to select. (But then again, could just be my slicer)

 

[FlyerInStyle]

I figured it out, you need to turn on arachne wall generator, it is mostly on but qidi default profiles keep it to classic for some reason. now it works perfectly!

 

[telnar1236]

I figured it out, you need to turn on arachne wall generator, it is mostly on but qidi default profiles keep it to classic for some reason. now it works perfectly!

Yeah, arachne wall generator and print thin walls should both be on to get the best prints - and the slicing mode should be set to regular and not even odd despite what it says in the Orca Slicer tool tips.

 

[Houndpup Rc]

I think there should be a setting called “print thin walls”. I think that’s what you need to select. (But then again, could just be my slicer)

What do you use?

 

[Mr Man]

What do you use?

Qidi print

 

[Houndpup Rc]

Qidi print

Ah okay, never heard of it....

 

[Mr Man]

It;s pretty much made for qidi printers only. (I have the original X-smart)

 

[Houndpup Rc]

It;s pretty much made for qidi printers only. (I have the original X-smart)

Oh okay 👍 I was gonna say, if you use a slicer like Prusa you can get better print times and results..I don't know why but I saw a video where a guy stacked Creality Print, Prusa and Orca up against each other and Creality print and Prusa did the best...At least with the print he was using.

 

[Houndpup Rc]

At least with the print he was using.

*Printer not Print

 

[FlyerInStyle]

Qidi print

its basically a modification of orca if I understand correctly, I honestly love orca with my qidi x smart 3

 

[FlyerInStyle]

Yeah, arachne wall generator and print thin walls should both be on to get the best prints - and the slicing mode should be set to regular and not even odd despite what it says in the Orca Slicer tool tips.

from what I have seen arachne automatically turns on print thin walls, but thanks for the heads up

 

[FlyerInStyle]

First couple parts are printed, I don't think I will be able to make regular enough updates for a build log so I'll keep them here

 

[Houndpup Rc]

First couple parts are printed, I don't think I will be able to make regular enough updates for a build log so I'll keep them here View attachment 254888 View attachment 254889

Cool! 👍

 

[telnar1236]

First couple parts are printed, I don't think I will be able to make regular enough updates for a build log so I'll keep them here View attachment 254888 View attachment 254889

Curious how it will turn out with LW-PLA. Should definitely be lighter. I'd definitely recommend printing the wing spars and fuselage connectors if you use them in normal PLA at the very least.

 

[FlyerInStyle]

Curious how it will turn out with LW-PLA. Should definitely be lighter. I'd definitely recommend printing the wing spars and fuselage connectors if you use them in normal PLA at the very least.

Ok, thanks, I may print them in petg since I will have a ton of that on hand. Should be similar

 

[Houndpup Rc]

Ok, thanks, I may print them in petg since I will have a ton of that on hand. Should be similar

It is a bit heavier...

 

[FlyerInStyle]

It is a bit heavier...

Yeah, but also will flex better, and has much better layer adhesion counting I may even use some petg-gf. I think that petg is a worthwhile choice for a wing spar and fuselage connectors just for its flexibility, plus it's not much material. ABS would be ideal but I have none of it and do not enjoy printing it

 

[telnar1236]

Ok, thanks, I may print them in petg since I will have a ton of that on hand. Should be similar

One other thing to watch out for is that PETG does not form as good of bonds using CA - you can work around it by being careful with making sure all the surfaces join well, but it is something to watch out for. For the spars and fuselage connectors, this is less of a problem since they don't glue to anything though.