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Savage Bobber 45" – FT Bushwacker – TH Crack Turbo Beaver

Build Log: Savage Bobber 45" – FT Bushwacker – TH Crack Turbo Beaver

First was this really cool Turbo Beaver fm Twisted Hobbies, like it’s 3D ability but not it’s durability. Got to scale it up and use better power systems.

Then FT came along with the Bushwacker, this is it... I thought. It does not 3D as good as the Beaver tho, but, this is what I wanted to build. But as soon as I saw the red bush plane early in the post, I started looking for what that is, and then discovered ...

The Savage Bobber.

I’m from S Texas and was afraid my planes would melt, started in discussion about glue sticks, a thread Nerdnic started. Still think I want to build out of permant materials, found these dowels at Hobby Lobby really cheap (29cents ea for 3/16x36"),and thought there has to be a good way to make use of these in a light wood frame build like dowel-n-frame. I was working on the Morane Saulnier and stopped because it was just too heavy ( fiberglass ).

The Bobber makes great use of the dowel idea, the back fuse is not covered but painted.
Starting out with the idea of making the front out of 1/8 lite ply, it’s 576 inches weigh 538.5 grams(24x48x1/8inch), or almost 1 gram per sq inch. The side panel I cut out comes to only 26.3 grams. Don't pay too much for this Lite-Ply, get it at Amazon for $10/sheet. It was the FT bushwacker for a while until I found a poster describing how you had to put the battery all the way fwd, found a post of someone in RCGroups, Phaeton, built a beautiful Savage Cub of CF rod, nice but it’s too tail heavy to fly, so after comparing fuses FT Bushwacker to Bobber, the Bobber is 2.5 inches longer, so I made mine 2 inches longer. You should get the WRX page in my gallery, it has great helps about scaling fm 3v dwgs, prop limits, battery voltages etc... I updated the prop limits info.

All earlier FT planes like Mustang have 9" chords, yall dropped it to 7", the Bobber is about 8.5", don’t know why so short for BW, I kind of split diff n made mine an 8" fat Clark YM 15% foil using Profili, which is free but if you want all the capability, pay the programmer and open all the functions. Super prgm, all the airfoils you would want.

Power: This time I don’t want to cut it even close or worry about pwr to W, so I’m planning on 2 to 2.5 # build and Cobra 2820/10turn/1170kv Io = 1.6A gives 57.5oz at 351W on 3s, that’s 3.5 # thrust with an APC 10x6e prop. This should work out good.

I’m only using a side view as a plan, the sticks are only there as place holders for the impression, actual dimension will be figured later. The 4 lg horz runners will be 3/16" and bracers will be glue-tacked, then wrapped with fiberglass and thread then epoxied. The back end const will go good if mounted on a 2x4 following a center line. I’m just going to attach both ends and fill in the middle. The thrust line of the wing parallels the the center line too.

The next decision will be after cutting out both side panels, is the width, will 3 inches wide look good for this???
See the picture, the height is about what the FT BW is, but the length is the proportion of the Bobber.
The Bushwacker is about 3.5 inches wide. WS is 45" and chord is 8" and the dwg is full scale. I'll put up the 2 pics for panel print too.

Savage Bobber red 2674553.jpg ZlinSavageBobber13.jpg ZlinSavageBobber03.jpg Savage Bobber 45WS 8inch chord Clark YM 15% -- 3.jpg Savage Bobber 45WS 8inch chord Clark YM 15% -- p 1.jpg Savage Bobber 45WS 8inch chord Clark YM 15% -- p 2.jpg Cobra 2820--10t-1170kv descr upload.jpg Bobber Wood Panel pattern transfer method.jpg Bobber Wood Panel 26.3grams.jpg bushwacker-5-png_1440789878.jpg

Now 3.6 oz and the inside is 3" wide

Bobber Wood Panel 3.6oz here -- 1.jpg Bobber Wood Panel 3.6oz here -- 2.jpg

Since I chopped the height down a bit, I think this proportion may be right, I could not find a 3view or top picture of the Savage Bobber.

It would be nice to just hand the battery in that curved opening in the side, position between 4 low blocks on floor and strap down with a hair band on 2 hooks, they look tougher than rubber bands.

Bobber easy does it glue assy jig.jpg
Now with the 4 fuse dowels on and trimmed, 4.4 oz.
I really am liking this build method, maybe do more like this ... Bleriot ....? Easy, tough, fast, and good looking.

These 3/16 dowels fm Hobby Lobby really seem strong enough to make a nice 32 inch DH2, keep in the truck to fly after work.

See how I glued them in the corner w/ epoxy and glass? Used rigid epoxy, Z-poxy.
Sure makes a smooth joint if you press a clear plastic bag over the curing joint then you can smooth it press it down w/out getting epoxy on your fingers ( get too much on you, and you could get sensitized to it ).
Bobber 4.4oz now.jpg Bobber 4.4oz now 2.jpg

Just a good idea not applied the best but see how smooth, no sharp jagged protruding edges.
Bobber 4.4oz now 5.jpg Bluetooth MedialLink $11 Amazon.jpg
Easier way to get your pics fm ph 2 pc or pc to ph, I know the data xfer cable is faster, but this is faster, better more practical if you only have 1-5 photos to xfer... and you don't wear out the data connection on your phone by excessive use. Bluetooth transceiver.
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Hi! Thank you.
This is a wood project, and the novelty is that beautiful unique stick structure tail, so the wing will definitely be balsa

Still all over the place with how or what it will be, paint black n cover with clear?
Print some interesting wide picture on bottom of wing, I do graphics pretty good with a paint shop, just what pic and how to put it on the covering

To show up right is has to be the image over a white background
Could be an image printed on the outside of the monocote covering
just have to be careful not to shrink it too much and make image distortions

Also been thinking of picture schemes/collages, many yrs ago started thinking of stuff like interesting albums covering a plane ...Drk Sd of Moon, Herb Alpert A Taste of Honey, others

Star Trek theme pic of Spock on side fuse swimming after the whale to mind meld....

Good Bad Ugly theme, the Ugly guy is so funny, thought about calling my plane Ill Ugly and putting 'is face on the Rudder...

Also Ennio Morricone is one of my favorite composers, of, GBU, For a Few $ More, Red Sonja, Untouchables, Mission to Mars, The Mission, Butterfly,

I want to treat this like a work of art ( really want it to look good, since some of my other planes looked junky ) and make it a great flier too

In the end might just paint it like an airplane with florescent violet & black sim to the 1st pic, take pictures of it and fly it.
It feels good to fly something that looks good
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Starting tail structure

Bobber tai structure begin  1.jpg

Before beginning this part, it was really necessary to verify the proportion and number of frames, I superimposed a layer of a photo over my plan/drawing which began as a mix of the typ ft nose then elongated, and the artists drawing of the Zlin Savage Bobber. In process of drawing I made up my own lines n proportions went back n studied the Bushwacker tail size, decided to increase on Bobber.

As it turned out the artists Bobber dwg matched up ( stick structure plan ) so I went directly with that.

But just before beginning this, to me it was only filler, and an impression, but the 4 frames and where they fall, I took their lengthwise place off the dwg directly.

*Well I had to adjust the shape to fit inside the main lines I put, just a psp function that vertically compresses the L or R side of a picture

Next is how much frame stick detail, the 1st frame of verticals offers real good support being like a bridge 4" behind the CG ( roughly you know 30% back of Leading Edge ), 2nd fr is where they put an X brace, 3rd one half x brace, 4th open

I have not decided on more X braces or just that one in 2nd frame, right now I see it is shaky and needs more support

Some kind of artistic notions just kind of came to me while deciding the front panel design, 1st just a simple desire to get working on it with simple wood instead of fglass, so then in the paint shop, I still wanted that open area hopefully just right so no hatch would be needed, just reach in and put the battery in place.

The fun artistic part came, not wanting just a simple squared away cut, a circle, but not just, stretch it into an elipse with the opposite circular reflexes on bottom and top...that they are not exactly symmetrical and terminate or reflex in different lengths. I enjoyed designing this.

Abandoning rubber band posts and firmly deciding on one airfoil of 8"chord, and making a seat for it then to bolt it in 1/2" aft of the wing spar, this made it even better
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Anybody know an expoxy with super adhesion and rigidity, using Z-poxy now

I wrapped the joins with fiberglass threads then laminated them with Z-poxy, is there some epoxy that would have better adhesion like uhu por or contact cement has????????????????? But also rigid to hold joints like these, too much flex here might make glued joints break down.
Post here if you think you know a better epoxy, already have parbond flexy tough not very good adhesion

Bobber glassing tail joins 2.jpg Bobber glassing tail joins 1.jpg
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Savage Bobber tail stick structure done

It weighs 194g 6.84oz now, before I epoxy/glass the joints
**Now after gluing the joints 201.3g 7.10065oz .... 0.2606oz of epoxy and glass for about 14 joints.

Six more dowel to flat surface joints to do then tail stabs R-E,front hardware details, LGear,

Somehow I would like to make Landing Gear out of 1/8 CF rod and some kind of shock absorber system that looks like what's on a cub

This encourages me to think about doing a Bleriot, DH2 or some other interesting craft from the early aviation pioneering age

Now after really tying the glass around and gluing it to these 3/16" wood rods ( cheap too $0.29 ea ), it's not hard, a nice looking Bleriot could be done well and in the video below, they also mentioned some kevlar thread attached by CA glue, looked pretty good and he said he gets it on ebay, a big roll of it for a good price.
Kevlar thread with CA might go good if you wanted to stain, I was not too careful where I got the epoxy, knowing that I intended to paint it anyway, sim to that 1st pic w/ orange, I might use flourescent violet...still thinking about color schemes
Savage Bobber 194g 6.84oz  glassing tail joins 5c.jpg

Are there any airplanes you think would look good done this way?

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I have seen kevlar kite string used on carbon fiber tubes joints with ca glue. I would imagine it would work the same with wooden dowels. If weight becomes an issue small carbon fiber tubes are pretty cheap from hobbyking.

This technique was used on the super honey badger plane.

You can see it a 2:20
Thank you Westers47, Kevlar Kite String from ebay... yesssssss

I like seeing that guy reach out in very different directions like that. And the build variation, hey, I got some CF tube like that, saving it for a different kind of wing.

It's always nice to see these FT guys, they should have a show on cable tv too, I think they would be 10,000 times better than any reality stuff or ..., but then that might steal away from the flexibility, here a show or vid edition can be however long it takes.
You know... this stick building technique is cheap, light, durable and looks great

Any ideas on what other planes of any shape this could be applied to?

This is a pretty special look, apply it to something strangely retro? Skeleton Plane, DH2, FE2, Bleriot, a made-up plane from the aviation pioneering age... remember they had some really goofy wierd stuff like who would waste time on that idea, so anything somebody just pulled out of the air that looked just that style, you know stuff back then got altered as people liked it, the curtis pusher became the headless as it had elevators for and aft, sometimes they left off that big spinner on the Morane Saulnier, Stukas did not always have the typical boot gear for their fixed landing gear... sometimes just naked or a covering boot like a boot over a CV joint

Just thinking about this and where ideas come from SmithHayward posted about building a flying model drawn by Cutangus the artist aka Jose Garcia it's called an annular ring, so it's definitely not anything anybody really thought would fly with good characteristics, but, interesting to try to make it fly, this guy is on pages sim to deviant art and flikr and others devoted to art,

There has been another style annular ring that has been made into several model and one or 2 people may sell this oddity as a kit, it flies good too, but it's annular like a frisbie, see?

I wonder if there are some artists out there who really, instead of the strange overdone post-apocalyptic Mad Max aircraft, could there be also some artists out there who have stuff, fictional but of a retro nature in aeronautics, but stuff that would fly better, if built retro 60s futurist, retro like also fictional pioneering age aircraft sim to Bleriot, you know the French also had cool looking aircraft in that age that flew

Bleriot XI (Thulin A)            6545.jpg Curtiss D   AVION_EXP_TSOA_ZDB.jpg
The Navy bought the Curtis D pusher, this is not a fake picture, this is also the aeroplane from The Great Race that Professor Fates' assistant flew barnstorming with his master hanging below from a rope "Up you idiot, up!"
Curtiss D      Aircraft_CIMG4639.jpg
Dehaviland DH2 electric rc model with a nice looking zinger wood prop

An artist who loves the pioneering age of aeronautics.

Know any names, seen any stuff, wanna post it?

I should make a log or book because I have seen videos and pictures and read stuff and seen the aero-planes too, not just the Wright Bros.

What other aero-plane would you build like this?

Got any artist's pics of cool real or fictional airplanes?
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Fixed the tail mast better w/ CF rod n sleeve

Going slow, but I just could not leave this alone, not after planning to use that nice Cobra motor and the stick construction

One thing stopped me was it looked crooked and I did not like how the big block wood mast looked so out of scale

I balked at the hardest part, the tail, to take time and figure what to do

How could the tail be hinged if the rudder mast is just a 1/8th CF rod, so I covered the rod with wax paper then wrapped and soaked fiberglass thread around it like you would wind a fishing rod spool and got that white tube by the tail in the picture, the rudder gets attached there and on a similar glass slip sleeve on top

You know it occurred to me a little late but there must be some kind of slip sleeve that I could use instead of making it from glass and epoxy, some kind of strong slip sleeve that would stick to epoxy and not be abrasive to CF.

Any material ideas for this???

Now this looks so much more scale with the wood dowel tail

I have taken to helping the epoxy in most every joint I thought critical, now, by wrapping or putting fiberglass in it

At first in the discussion on the Walmart hot glue stick thread (Nerdnic), I got very much into learning more about building materials, epoxies and glues, thought that Bruce Simpson really had something with "tough" parbond, but now I find I don't like its lack of adhesion, for now my favorite epoxy is Z-poxy, it gets more rigid but not really brittle just close, still I will try to give parbond a few more attempts, I just dug out a firewall on a glass fuse that was held with the stuff, it was tough like Bruce said, but not as much adhesion as I would like, but tough as in flexible and not at all rigid. Get parbond at radicalRC, it will make some really super hinges

Another thing to share, I have been very interested in alternative covering, found out Dollar Stores cello wrap and similar that has no glue backing, can be used by applying elmers glue to the frame and letting it dry completely and then ironing on the covering to the glued areas, not as convenient as Monocote, but way cheap and it also shrinks with heat to take out the wrinkles

OK having mentioned the new discovery because I want to make use of my 15 rolls of cheap covering now, went hog wild for that idea, that's just the cost of 1 roll of monocote; I separate glass thread out of a piece of woven 7oz cloth and use 12 inch pieces wrapping around the tail dowels and rudder mast, feels really strong, that white part is the cutoff tube, it will rotate and get glued to the rudder (tricky to glue in place, but worth it). I think I like this hinging method for the tail stabs, might use more often on other projects
Close inspection shows I beefed up the top where the weight and brunt of the forces of landing and ground travel would impact the tail, the thicker part of the white tube is on top for this

Also now a 3rd even better cooler wood pwr pod made for mustangs and similar warbirds with low wings, has a wing saddle and a hatch, will hold even the tail servos if I want them there and the wing will bolt on with 8-32 blind nuts ( the ones with the large wide bases from Great Planes, don't get the ones with the small bases, they pull thru your wood and don't work good ).

Savage Bobber 45WS 8inch chord Clark YM 15% -- 100.jpg
Savage Bobber 45WS 8inch chord Clark YM 15% -- 101.jpg
Savage Bobber 45WS 8inch chord Clark YM 15% -- 102.jpg
Better Lite Ply Wood Pod 100.jpg
Better Lite Ply Wood Pod 101.jpg

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Is the old fogey one of the boxy foam board FT designs?

Some ideas for later projects, myself, I like those real old golden age airplanes like the Bleriot with the stick structure tail and the cool looking tall thin chrome spoked wheels, the wheels from my old Blue Max ( Saito .56 engine ) are like this. Albatros DV and D3

You know someone on RCGroups said they really had a preference for the Albatros D3 over the DV and I looked and really wondered, because you know what we build are models and they don't take after the real airplanes as far as how sturdy or weak structures were or power plants, it's just the plan form of the plane and the wing shape or foil used

I looked for what differences there are between D3 and D5, and just could not see any differences, tail looks same, wings same, fuse same...? I like the Albatros with it's torpedo shape fuse with the sharp nose and woody looking fuse, those big wheels again.

And the British/French biplane pushers DH2,FE2

One problem with some of these and WW1 is the wing is so far fwd on the Bleriot, you can get tail heavy real easy and need to put weight in the front

The sticks are from Hobby Lobby 3/16 x 36" 29cents each

5 inch wheel from Blue Max.jpg

This wheel is heavy and I would only use this gear on a power plane, like if I build an Albatros with a gas engine.

Like to find some light wheels like this, 4 inches but with foam that would not melt on the concrete or blacktop in the summertime

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Re-did the rudder mast.... again

Still working on it, been alternating between this and my wood pwr pod now done with magnetic hatch.

Got a little bit in a hurry and had to re-make the rudder mast... longer, and I installed a better sleeve hinge

I think the tail will be the hardest thing, got to look good and be light and changing out that big ugly piece of wood for the smaller 1/8th CF rod seems to have improved it

Savage Bobber 45WS 8inch chord Clark YM 15% -- 104.jpg

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Hey wow I really like DH2s, FE2s ww1 pushers

been wanting to build this, and you built it from foam, nice

I don't know why we don't see more interest in this kind of aircraft and the golden age/pioneering age craft look so good.

ww1 planes I been thinkin bout building DH2, Curtiss Headless Pusher, Abatros biplane D3 or D5, ...


Did you do a standard kind of FT wing with the under camber section outside for stalls and the inner section is a regular flat bottom?
Wing Span 30 inches?

You know, I got to looking at your DH2 more closely, did you put a swappable pwr pod in there?

Well, when you look back at this could you tell me the chord and wing span and dimensions, that's a nice looking DH2. Just couldn't put it down, I put your pic in my phone to look at for ideas, I see where you stuck the struts or rods thru both sides, probably gives more strength hitting both sides with glue

I'm curious where the strength comes from like around the posts what holds the top wing and keeps it steady or firm, maybe it's just the whole of the build up all around, not just any one thing

I'm really kind of stuck, not developed yet as a light builder of foam, used to building heavy planes for engines

One funny thing, I got some 5/8" foam insulation board and glued a stack of it solid and then cut and sanded it to make a solid foam fuse but to use as a plug pattern to put fiberglass over, and I did this and have a glass FT Storch fuse that weighs 10oz without a tail, I guess that would still fly good, not a swappable, has a nice round glass nose and firewall, set up for the 2217/7 1340kv beef motor

I have looked and thought over and over again about just flying that 4oz solid foam plug, too!

You know about foam building, that solid foam glued together with white gorilla glue and then covered with tape, is really strong

Put up some more pics here, thank you.

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