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Seaduck 3D Mod

Headbang

Well-known member
#2
New plans drawn up, ready for cutting on the mpcnc. First full build will be dtfb using the new radial C pack on 4s. Glues will be a mix of regular and white gorilla glue, as well as hot glue. New wing design has some areas that need full expansion of regular gorilla glue, some areas that need the slower cure and gap filling of white gorilla glue without the full expansion, and leading/trailing edges as well as wing tips need hot glue to get the shape right and held quickly. Taking build techniques from @nerdnic and others I have seen along the way.
 

Headbang

Well-known member
#11
What's the trick? I tried once but it took forever so I abandoned the idea.
I take the household iron, crank it. Temp gun says it is 357F. Then I just iron the edges. Holding the iron at a 45deg angle I go around all edges, flip the piece, and repeat. Makes a sharp edge, which may be a down side. But a quick swipe with a sanding block takes the sharpness out.
Not scared of taking a bit more time, I have spent the 200hrs building balsa planes many times. Even this much more complicated fb build is only going to have 6-8hrs into it, but that includes a lot of thinking and coming up with solutions on the fly too. Second one may be down to 4hrs. Of course there is 2 or 3 over night dry times for glue. And paint will have 2-3 days dry between coats. So build will take a week and a half from start to maiden.
 

Headbang

Well-known member
#12
I know rite, so many uses for it. I gotta get me an iron. I have been using a plastic card with a notch the thickness of the FB to smear and squeegee HG into the edges to seal them. Iron looks way better, more finished and refined
In the past I was taking a scrap piece of fb with a V cut in it and doing the same.
My current duck that I built Sept last yr I did what you do, over 200 flights in all weather, it is hold up great.
 

FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
#17
I use a standard house iron. NO STEAM. cotton setting. once up to heat, it melts the foam, and eases the paper glue (I think) which when cooled, becomes stiff. a metal rulers speeds the cooling, reduces the wrinkling that happens around curves and straightens a gentle buckle that sometimes happens. It is as fast as 45° cutting and faster than sanding or cutting a thin wedge. It also make peeling the paper off easy while hot. and harder when cooled.

On the beveled fold-over edge I usually remove paper on one side to allow for crushing, but the other hardened edge helps with stiffness.
 

BATTLEAXE

Well-known member
#18
I use a standard house iron. NO STEAM. cotton setting. once up to heat, it melts the foam, and eases the paper glue (I think) which when cooled, becomes stiff. a metal rulers speeds the cooling, reduces the wrinkling that happens around curves and straightens a gentle buckle that sometimes happens. It is as fast as 45° cutting and faster than sanding or cutting a thin wedge. It also make peeling the paper off easy while hot. and harder when cooled.

On the beveled fold-over edge I usually remove paper on one side to allow for crushing, but the other hardened edge helps with stiffness.
Awesome tips man thx
 

Headbang

Well-known member
#19
So Thursday night I had a bad night, head was screwed on backwards and upside down. Mistakes were made, the squareness of this build is shot. But I will continue, it should still be good enough to see how the wing performs. Right now working on the motor mount, new design needs a new power pod design. Solution might be to chop into the wing leading edge to make a 3d printed mount fit.