Seaduck 3D Mod

Headbang

Master member
So I have been working on this for a while but winter is coming so it is time to make progress. Basic wing redesign is done.
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I will post plans for everything after I build the final version.
 

Headbang

Master member
New plans drawn up, ready for cutting on the mpcnc. First full build will be dtfb using the new radial C pack on 4s. Glues will be a mix of regular and white gorilla glue, as well as hot glue. New wing design has some areas that need full expansion of regular gorilla glue, some areas that need the slower cure and gap filling of white gorilla glue without the full expansion, and leading/trailing edges as well as wing tips need hot glue to get the shape right and held quickly. Taking build techniques from @nerdnic and others I have seen along the way.
 

Headbang

Master member
Waiting for glue to dry. Using white gorilla glue to make it easier when I cut out the ailerons later.
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I ironed the edges with the paper on, then removed the paper. Makes for a much better edge compared to carving. Should be stronger too.
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Headbang

Master member
Horizontal and vertical stabs done. Ironed all edges and bevels, made a huge difference in strength and straightness. Used some 1.5mm wire to transfer movement to outer elevators.
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BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
Nope, first time. Got the trick from @Photo001 .
I know rite, so many uses for it. I gotta get me an iron. I have been using a plastic card with a notch the thickness of the FB to smear and squeegee HG into the edges to seal them. Iron looks way better, more finished and refined
 

Headbang

Master member
What's the trick? I tried once but it took forever so I abandoned the idea.
I take the household iron, crank it. Temp gun says it is 357F. Then I just iron the edges. Holding the iron at a 45deg angle I go around all edges, flip the piece, and repeat. Makes a sharp edge, which may be a down side. But a quick swipe with a sanding block takes the sharpness out.
Not scared of taking a bit more time, I have spent the 200hrs building balsa planes many times. Even this much more complicated fb build is only going to have 6-8hrs into it, but that includes a lot of thinking and coming up with solutions on the fly too. Second one may be down to 4hrs. Of course there is 2 or 3 over night dry times for glue. And paint will have 2-3 days dry between coats. So build will take a week and a half from start to maiden.
 

Headbang

Master member
I know rite, so many uses for it. I gotta get me an iron. I have been using a plastic card with a notch the thickness of the FB to smear and squeegee HG into the edges to seal them. Iron looks way better, more finished and refined
In the past I was taking a scrap piece of fb with a V cut in it and doing the same.
My current duck that I built Sept last yr I did what you do, over 200 flights in all weather, it is hold up great.
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
In the past I was taking a scrap piece of fb with a V cut in it and doing the same.
My current duck that I built Sept last yr I did what you do, over 200 flights in all weather, it is hold up great.
I get to see what the final product looks like on Saturday?
 

jross

Well-known member
I have spent the 200hrs building balsa planes many times.
I'm such a pussy.

Sounds like I needed a hotter iron than my laminating iron. Time to steal the big daddy. Not like anyone irons clothes around here anyhow. Guessing steam is optional.
 

Headbang

Master member
I'm such a pussy.

Sounds like I needed a hotter iron than my laminating iron. Time to steal the big daddy. Not like anyone irons clothes around here anyhow. Guessing steam is optional.
I do not use steam. Steam I am pretty sure would destroy the paper.
 

FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
I use a standard house iron. NO STEAM. cotton setting. once up to heat, it melts the foam, and eases the paper glue (I think) which when cooled, becomes stiff. a metal rulers speeds the cooling, reduces the wrinkling that happens around curves and straightens a gentle buckle that sometimes happens. It is as fast as 45° cutting and faster than sanding or cutting a thin wedge. It also make peeling the paper off easy while hot. and harder when cooled.

On the beveled fold-over edge I usually remove paper on one side to allow for crushing, but the other hardened edge helps with stiffness.
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
I use a standard house iron. NO STEAM. cotton setting. once up to heat, it melts the foam, and eases the paper glue (I think) which when cooled, becomes stiff. a metal rulers speeds the cooling, reduces the wrinkling that happens around curves and straightens a gentle buckle that sometimes happens. It is as fast as 45° cutting and faster than sanding or cutting a thin wedge. It also make peeling the paper off easy while hot. and harder when cooled.

On the beveled fold-over edge I usually remove paper on one side to allow for crushing, but the other hardened edge helps with stiffness.
Awesome tips man thx
 

Headbang

Master member
So Thursday night I had a bad night, head was screwed on backwards and upside down. Mistakes were made, the squareness of this build is shot. But I will continue, it should still be good enough to see how the wing performs. Right now working on the motor mount, new design needs a new power pod design. Solution might be to chop into the wing leading edge to make a 3d printed mount fit.