Senior Returning to Hobby Requires Information

[Mike Fry]

Sorry, I likely posted this in the wrong Forum topic (Forum 101)

Hi Everyone,
My name is Mike and I am now 76+ years old.
We had to move a few year ago and after working through our bucket list of important priorities to make our new residence a comfortable home for us aging seniors, I now have some time available so I want to be active in the RC hobby again flying (crashing, then rebuilding) my planes to be able to fly both indoors in the winter and outside for the rest of the year.
To be able to do this I need a couple of planes (sadly most of my previous planes got abused past being reusable during the moving renovations).
I have started a new FT Mini Tiny Tutor new build which is going well.

Anyway, to the point,......
Josh uses small Servo Linkage Stopper Connectors on a lot of his builds to be able to easily establish neutral throws.
I hope that someone can provide me a link to where I can purchase these Linkage Stoppers so that I can use them for my current Tutor and future builds.
I prefer only having to do Z bends on pushrods at only one end and then using the Linkage Stoppers at the opposite end.
At my shaky age, I believe that this is the best way to set up the throws.

Can anyone in the FT Forum community offer pictures of these Linkage Stoppers and links as to where they can be easily purchased?

Thanks in advance for this information.
Regards from a new senior Forum member,
Mike

 

[Mr NCT]

Sorry, I likely posted this in the wrong Forum topic (Forum 101)

Not a problem. Most people use the 'WHAT'S NEW' tab and you get all the new posts no matter what topic or thread it's in.

 

[Bricks]

Welcome.........One of the ways I set up my push rods on small planes is use shrink tubing and Super Glue, there is a number of things you can use for the push rod itself. I will Z bend two short pieces of wire which will be connected by a piece of carbon, barbecue skewer or small dowel. Install the Z bends on to the control horns, now take which ever you have available to connect the two cut to the length needed slip on two pieces of shrink tubing. Slide those into position to hold it together, center servo then shrink tubing do the same at the control surface now shrink that end. Make sure everything is centered the wire can slide in the shrink tubing if needed, now that everything is centered put a drop or two of Super glue on each end of the shrink tubing done. I use this a lot on mall planes.

A little edit make sure the shrink tubing is short enough that there is room for the Super Glue on each end.

 

[Merv]

...I hope that someone can provide me a link to where I can purchase these Linkage Stoppers...
...I prefer only having to do Z bends on pushrods at only one end and then using the Linkage Stoppers at the opposite end...

I agree, I use a Z bend & linkage stopper on all of my builds. They are also know as EZ Connectors.
I prefer ones like these, square body, push on connectors & hex head screw. The square body allows me to more easily hold it with pliers. The push on ends are just easier to deal with than the ones with a nut, which require thread lock to work properly. The hex head screw will not cam out like a Philp's head screw will.

DU-BRO Square-Lok Pushrod Connector | Servo Linkage Hardware

DU-BRO Square-Lok Pushrod Connector makes servo setup fast and easy. Adjustable 2-56 linkage with wrench-ready design. Includes all hardware

www.dubro.com

 

[MadMonkey]

I agree, I use a Z bend & linkage stopper on all of my builds. They are also know as EZ Connectors.
I prefer ones like these, square body, push on connectors & hex head screw. The square body allows me to more easily hold it with pliers. The push on ends are just easier to deal with than the ones with a nut, which require thread lock to work properly. The hex head screw will not cam out like a Philp's head screw will.

DU-BRO Square-Lok Pushrod Connector | Servo Linkage Hardware

DU-BRO Square-Lok Pushrod Connector makes servo setup fast and easy. Adjustable 2-56 linkage with wrench-ready design. Includes all hardware

www.dubro.com

I actually like these more than the ones with nuts... mainly because I don't trust thread locker. But I've started using 2mm lock nuts with those and haven't had a failure yet.

I've used linkage stoppers in some form or another almost exclusively for 30 years for planes smaller than giant scale, and have had almost zero failures.

EDIT: I've lately been using a small nut driver to press the keepers onto the bottom. You guys found a better method yet? I'd pay for custom pliers to do it 😂

 

[SlingShot]

The FT Store still sells them as well.

 

[Merv]

... I've lately been using a small nut driver to press the keepers onto the bottom....

Not sue it's better, but I use a small block of wood with small hole in it. Just about the size of the pin. Then use a pliers to seat the holder on to the base.

A plier with a hole in it would do the same thing. The pliers with a hole in them could also be used aa a Z bend tool.

 

[Merv]

The FT Store still sells them as well.

These will work, but are not the same.

They are round, not square, you just can't grip them as well with a pliers. They have a phillips head screw, not a hex head. The phillips head will cam out far easier, you just can't get them as tight.

 

[Foamforce]

These will work, but are not the same.

They are round, not square, you just can't grip them as well with a pliers. They have a phillips head screw, not a hex head. The phillips head will cam out far easier, you just can't get them as tight.

Fwiw, when I use linkage stoppers, I hold onto the connecting rod while I tighten it. That gives me plenty of leverage. That said, I stopped using them for the most part. It’s easier for me to make the rod the correct length. If it’s off, it’s by less than 1/16”, and subtrim handles that easily. Getting rid of the linkage stopper makes it easier to build, gives it less play, and removes a failure point.

 

[Shurik-1960]

I sawed through the groove in the pliers and have been making tips for 10 years. 1. I set the servomechanism to the neutral position and put a pusher with a Z on the rocker. 2. I make a Z at the other end of the pusher and put on the rocker. I paste the rocking chair on the level. I put the rocker on glue in a controlled surface.

 

[quorneng]

I appreciate my planes are by most standards light so the loads on control linkages are smaller but i do follow some basic mechanical rules.
1. Position the servo as close as practical to each control surface to keep the link as short as possible.
2. Align the servo arm so it moves in the same plane as the horn to reduce any change in the angularity of the link over the servo travel.
4. Where ever possible adjust the length of the control horn to give the travel required rather than the servo arm as it reduces the load required to be transmitted through the link.
3. The shorter the link the better as it resists bending allowing a thinner wire to be used.
The ultimate of these principles comes down to something simple and light like this

Yes it is made from a paper clip! Cheap and easy to bend to get exactly the right length.
Note the retainer (stripped wire insulation) carries no direct servo load so can be safely retained by a drop of glue.
As an example the aileron linkage on my 50mm EDF DH "Swiss" Venom. It uses a 3.7g servo and a specific length printed aileron horn.

 

[Shurik-1960]

I 'll add it ...The pusher must always be at an angle of 90 degrees to the axis of rotation.

 

[Mike Fry]

Not a problem. Most people use the 'WHAT'S NEW' tab and you get all the new posts no matter what topic or thread it's in.

Many thanks for the reply.
I am starting to build new foamies so will try this tips.
Regards,
Mike