Check his latest Twitchity Tri-Copter post...
Shendrones Mixuko build
- Thread starter C0d3M0nk3y
- Start date
Check his latest Twitchity Tri-Copter post...
C0d3M0nk3y
Posted a thousand or more times
I like it a lot. I'm running the KISS FC on 3 of my quads now, and as Cranial mentioned, I'm going to try it on my mini tricopter.
The main thing I like is how easy it is to set up. Compared to Cleanflight, there are very few options. I also really like how the rates work. There is an online calculator to show how much rotation you will get at a given input value with given rate settings. Before, I had to do a lot of tinkering to get different quads that flew the same way in the air.
PsyBorg
Wake up! Time to fly!
I have made the decision to upgrade the esc's on my versa and am going with the esc's Code used on his words when I am able to set the money aside. After that I will more then likely try the FC as well to have a matched set to see how well it all performs together.
I am to the point now that the 3's setup with the 20c "Starter" batteries are being pushed to their limits as the alarm screams at me nearly instantly and for most of the turns as I fly. I guess its time to hit the 4s pool so I can keep growing in skills.
I am to the point now that the 3's setup with the 20c "Starter" batteries are being pushed to their limits as the alarm screams at me nearly instantly and for most of the turns as I fly. I guess its time to hit the 4s pool so I can keep growing in skills.
Twitchity
Senior Member
I need to sit down one day and try to find that video/article. I tried looking for it a little this morning but couldn't find anything. Maybe it was all just a dream :black_eyed:
It's a fine post! 
http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?16102-TwitchFrames-mini-tricopter-build&p=275631&viewfull=1#post275631
Simple, straight to the point!
http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?16102-TwitchFrames-mini-tricopter-build&p=275631&viewfull=1#post275631
Simple, straight to the point!
PsyBorg
Wake up! Time to fly!
Ran some practice runs on the Rotor Riot dog leg challenge and its a perfect example for the need to upgrade to a 4s setup. The Kiss set up is looking more and more attractive every battery I fly now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebnkliNCLKM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebnkliNCLKM
C0d3M0nk3y
Posted a thousand or more times
You could just grab a 3S battery around 1300 mAh or so with a high C rating if you're looking for a quick upgrade to your current gear. If you're looking for an excuse to upgrade the gear, though, I won't try too hard to talk you out of it.
PsyBorg
Wake up! Time to fly!
Not looking for an excuse really. It was already in the plan. I just didn't think the evolution would be so quick.
There are several "Quick" upgrades I could do but Id like to do upgrades once. I have 4s batteries here already for my Pitts. I have both 2200 and 1800MAH. I am leery of trying them for two reasons. I only have 6 inch props for one and from reading they will tax the motors on 4s too much. I ordered a set of Dal 5040 bull nose props when I ordered more 6045's so I could try the 4s. Sadly They sent me 6040 Bullnose props and I didn't notice until recently which was wayyy past the returnable time for Amazon. I think someone thought they were being helpful since I ordered a ton of 6045s that I clicked the wrong thing when I ordered the 5040's.
Second reason is the 12 amp esc's from the recommended power pack seem to run quite hot on 3s already. I checked them with an optical thermometer and they are well within spec according to the data sheets. I was going to step up to 20 or 25 amp esc's this summer anyway which is why the one you used are so tempting. I will probably go with the 18 amp Kiss esc's though as they are more in my budget to do reasonably soon with an addition of 5030 x 3 props on the same order.
There are several "Quick" upgrades I could do but Id like to do upgrades once. I have 4s batteries here already for my Pitts. I have both 2200 and 1800MAH. I am leery of trying them for two reasons. I only have 6 inch props for one and from reading they will tax the motors on 4s too much. I ordered a set of Dal 5040 bull nose props when I ordered more 6045's so I could try the 4s. Sadly They sent me 6040 Bullnose props and I didn't notice until recently which was wayyy past the returnable time for Amazon. I think someone thought they were being helpful since I ordered a ton of 6045s that I clicked the wrong thing when I ordered the 5040's.
Second reason is the 12 amp esc's from the recommended power pack seem to run quite hot on 3s already. I checked them with an optical thermometer and they are well within spec according to the data sheets. I was going to step up to 20 or 25 amp esc's this summer anyway which is why the one you used are so tempting. I will probably go with the 18 amp Kiss esc's though as they are more in my budget to do reasonably soon with an addition of 5030 x 3 props on the same order.
Problem 6040 BN props. Answer Cobra 2206 2100kv and 24a to 30a ESCs!
PsyBorg
Wake up! Time to fly!
Ahh sorry.. should have been clearer. I use normal 6045 props that came with the Standard versa power pack atm. The Dal props are the only bull nose ones I have atm. The power pack motors are 2204 2300kv.
I am also on an extremely tight budget. I would post what I live off for yearly income but no one would believe it. As it is it took nearly a year to put the money away for my first quad. When I decided to get the Versa I tightened the belt a tad more to get that sooner. Replacing the whole power set up would be out of the question to be done over summer.
I am also on an extremely tight budget. I would post what I live off for yearly income but no one would believe it. As it is it took nearly a year to put the money away for my first quad. When I decided to get the Versa I tightened the belt a tad more to get that sooner. Replacing the whole power set up would be out of the question to be done over summer.
C0d3M0nk3y
Posted a thousand or more times
It's really the ESCs that will suffer in that case. I wouldn't expect a 12 A ESC to last very long on 4S swinging either a 5" or 6" prop on 2204 2300s.
I love the KISS ESCs, but there are plenty of budget friendlier options out there.
PsyBorg
Wake up! Time to fly!
Hey Code thanks again for the advise mate. Since you posted a link to a 20 amp esc would I be correct in my original assumption before I saw the kiss ESC's here that these would also be fine? I have no problems with the 12a version of these I am currently flying other then out growing them. That way I could get my upgrade and continue to support FT.
https://store.flitetest.com/blheli-series-20a-esc-xt60/
https://store.flitetest.com/blheli-series-20a-esc-xt60/
C0d3M0nk3y
Posted a thousand or more times
You're welcome.
Those will probably be fine for 5" props on 4S. As you start to make progress and go heavier on the throttle, check them to see if they're getting hot during flight.
PsyBorg
Wake up! Time to fly!
I usually have my trusty digital laser beaming temp gun with me specially as the weather gets warmer. You say to watch the heat on the esc's.. is 20 amp too low? I don't want to fly a month and find I have out grown more gear that quickly again. What props should I start with after I get the new esc's I want to say I have read that people are using 5030 x 3 on the lighter QAV style quads. Should I go 5040 x3 due to the heavier weight of the Versa or will that stress everything too much?
C0d3M0nk3y
Posted a thousand or more times
Yeah, I think 20 is too low if you want to be on the safe side. I can easily pull over 20 A per motor with 5x4x3 props on 4S.
C0d3M0nk3y
Posted a thousand or more times
So I've flown the Mixuko plenty now, and I just don't love it. I decided to remove the FPV gear and use it as an LOS acro quad.
I closed the large opening on the top plate with a piece of heat shrink.
I moved the rx from under the FC to above it. I thought it made more sense to have it touching the top plate. When I moved the FC down, I used some shorter standoffs (6 mm instead of 10). I also had room to swap out the outer 30 mm spacers with 25 mm ones. After that, I added some yellow electrical tape to the rear arms to help with orientation.
The dry weight is 259 g, and the AUW is 412 g.
I closed the large opening on the top plate with a piece of heat shrink.
I moved the rx from under the FC to above it. I thought it made more sense to have it touching the top plate. When I moved the FC down, I used some shorter standoffs (6 mm instead of 10). I also had room to swap out the outer 30 mm spacers with 25 mm ones. After that, I added some yellow electrical tape to the rear arms to help with orientation.
The dry weight is 259 g, and the AUW is 412 g.
