ShrubSmacker Release

Grifflyer

WWII fanatic
the park next to my house is probably big enough to fly a regular size one but since i am kind of new to flying (i learnt to fly on the nutball and flyer so just to make sure the park is way bigger than what i need i am going to scale the plane down to like 25-26in wing span
thnaks
Shrinking the wing might hurt you in this situation. If you're trying to slow it down you'd actually be better off making the wing bigger instead of smaller.
 
so i finnally built it with a power pack a motor and it flies and there definetly potential but it is very touch i have like 60% expo and my ailerons are at 50% travel adj and whenever i pull up it stalls. anything i can do for that
 

Grifflyer

WWII fanatic
so i finnally built it with a power pack a motor and it flies and there definetly potential but it is very touch i have like 60% expo and my ailerons are at 50% travel adj and whenever i pull up it stalls. anything i can do for that
Adding a bit of nose weight might help the stalling. That's just a guess though, I've never heard of the happening...
 

HardDrive

Member
I know this is probably common knowledge to most of you, but maybe someone could benefit from a tutorial on how I laminate my foamboard airplanes. You can laminate an entire foam board airplane for about one dollar.

1. I use Duck brand shelf liner and 3M 77 spray adhesive from Wal-Mart. The shelf liner is already self-adhesive, but the 3M gives it a even better grip. Apply just a very light mist of the spray adhesive to one side of the part and let it air dry for 15-20 minutes.

2. Tape the shelf liner to your work surface making sure it is completely flat. Pull back the backing paper.

3. Place the part to be laminated down on the sticky side of the shelf liner and press firmly.

4. Trim around the part with a razor blade or hobby knife. I leave enough material to wrap around leading edges or adjoining sides of the fuselage.

5. Go around just the edges with an iron set on low heat to make it look really nice.


I see this being done on all flat pieces, how does it work on more complex pieces with curves, and tubular shapes? for instance on the P-38 body?
 

FrankFly

Member
I built to Grifflyer's plans. I'm using the 2205 motor, 6" prop, 3S 650 battery and the landing gear.

To get a flyable CG, I put the power pod forward where the firewall is right at the nose, added about 3 gram weight below the firewall, and cut about 3/8" off the rear of the power pod and jam the battery forward against it.

Today I was flying in 6-8 knot winds. It flew beautifully at 1/2 flaps. (about a 1/4 inch deflection at the TE). Better than no, or "full" flaps.

View attachment 180663
Took my Shrubby out yesterday, winds were light. She flew beautifully. My goal was to practice low approaches and try to make my landings more consistent.

After a fer low approaches, I got distracted doing snap rolls (which this plane does beautifully), imelmans and loops. It was pulling out at the bottom of a loop that the landing gear ejected.

Didn't get any landing practice.

Never did find the gear. Ordered new wheels.
 

FrankFly

Member
Never did find the gear. Ordered new wheels.

So this time, I modified the foam-board piece that folds over the gear-wire. I made the center, foam-removed part wider and glued a plastic straw into the gap. Then I put a barbecue skewer through the fuselage and the straw so the gear won't fall out, but I can still pull the skewer and remove the gear when necessary.
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
So this time, I modified the foam-board piece that folds over the gear-wire. I made the center, foam-removed part wider and glued a plastic straw into the gap. Then I put a barbecue skewer through the fuselage and the straw so the gear won't fall out, but I can still pull the skewer and remove the gear when necessary.
Thats a cool idea, never thought of that. I have used that style of gear before and have done all kinds of mods to it. But they always were a friction fit. Let us know how it works out for you
 

FrankFly

Member
Thats a cool idea, never thought of that. I have used that style of gear before and have done all kinds of mods to it. But they always were a friction fit. Let us know how it works out for you

Flew it with the new gear, and still have the gear - so it's a basic success.

What I am hoping is that the skewer/straw will also help with the "wallowing out" of the "socket" that the gear plugs into. You probably land better than I do, but after some "firm" landings, the "tunnel" that the landing gear slides into gets wider and wider (fore and aft) especially at the top (deepest) end until the gear is really floppy. That's why I had to change the gear attachments on my Simple Scouts. The Shrubsmacker is lighter plus Griff improved the strength with extra doublers there (and my landings have improved lol) so it hasn't been a big problem on the Shrubsmacker. Just enough to launch the gear on a high-G pullout.
 

Grifflyer

WWII fanatic
So this time, I modified the foam-board piece that folds over the gear-wire. I made the center, foam-removed part wider and glued a plastic straw into the gap. Then I put a barbecue skewer through the fuselage and the straw so the gear won't fall out, but I can still pull the skewer and remove the gear when necessary.
That’s a great idea!
 

Grifflyer

WWII fanatic
Are there plans that can be printed on printer paper?
Yup if you open up the plans in Adobe Reader and select print. After the print window opens up there should be a section in the middle of the window labeled "Page Sizing & Handling" right below that there should be options to choose between "Size" "Poster" "Multiple" and "Booklet" You are going to want to select the "Poster" option. Next, ensure your tile scale is set to 100%, your overlap is set at 0.005 in. and that you have the "Tile only large pages" option selected. You can also select "Cut marks" which will make taping the sheets of paper together easier, but it will increase your page count from 8 to 12. Lastly, go down to the bottom of the print window and click print.
Note: If you do not have the poster option on your laptop you may need to upgrade to the latest version of Adobe Reader. It may even be old enough that looking in the program options for updates does not work. You will have to go to Adobe website to get new version
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
Yup if you open up the plans in Adobe Reader and select print. After the print window opens up there should be a section in the middle of the window labeled "Page Sizing & Handling" right below that there should be options to choose between "Size" "Poster" "Multiple" and "Booklet" You are going to want to select the "Poster" option. Next, ensure your tile scale is set to 100%, your overlap is set at 0.005 in. and that you have the "Tile only large pages" option selected. You can also select "Cut marks" which will make taping the sheets of paper together easier, but it will increase your page count from 8 to 12. Lastly, go down to the bottom of the print window and click print.
Note: If you do not have the poster option on your laptop you may need to upgrade to the latest version of Adobe Reader. It may even be old enough that looking in the program options for updates does not work. You will have to go to Adobe website to get new version
Thats a copy and paste isnt it?