Simple Club Flight Time
- Thread starter Turakar
- Start date
JasonK
Participation Award Recipient
it depends on how you fly it (just like in a quad), my experience tells me that the recommended setups are typically good for a 5 minutes or more (depends on how you fly it). What I normally do (since I don't have RXes with battery Voltage telemetry for my non-FC stuff) is fly it for 5 minutes, check the battery, if still rather high, keep adding on in 1 minute increments. Once I find a duration that it can fly for, I will typically set a flight timer on my TX for a minute less then that, so I know when to come down.
If you get an RX with vbatt telemetry, you can have your TX call out voltage low for you to know when to land, similar to watching your voltage in your OSD in your quad.
Also remember, how you fly will effect the battery duration (3D flying is going to pull a whole lot more of of the plane then gentle pattern flights)
If you get an RX with vbatt telemetry, you can have your TX call out voltage low for you to know when to land, similar to watching your voltage in your OSD in your quad.
Also remember, how you fly will effect the battery duration (3D flying is going to pull a whole lot more of of the plane then gentle pattern flights)
I agree with JasonK, flight times depends on flying stile and conditions. I don’t have any experience with the stock set, my cub, will fly 8-10 minutes. If I go full throttle the whole flight, 6 minutes.
When it gets cold, below 60F, flight times will decline. When it’s below 40F, flight times will be cut in half.
When it gets cold, below 60F, flight times will decline. When it’s below 40F, flight times will be cut in half.
Byrdman
Well-known member
I assume you are talking about the Cub? IMO, the Scout flies a lot better and would be a much better trainer-type. I built the Cub before anything else and although I am sure it was something I did during the build process, it just doesn't fly well for me. Beautiful plane and design, but I messed it up somehow building it.
I just changed the angle of incidence to see if that helps some, but one more flight(crash) and I'm done with it.
i just maidened mine last week. 5-10 minutes of just cruising around at half throttle.
what do you mean by scale with battery size?
Thank you for your considerations! Yes, I meant the Simple Cub, my bad. So with stock electronics I would expect something around 5-10 minutes. To answer the question about battery size: I was wondering whether the recommended capacity (1000 - 1300 mAh) is already optimized with respect to the weight / capacity tradeoff or if I can also use a 2000 mAh battery and increase the flight time.
it probably is optimized for cetain flight characteristics, but you can certainly experiment if you have the experience to do so.
many people use different size batteries from the recommended sizes all the time, you just need to understand how weight and center of gravity will be affected.
many people use different size batteries from the recommended sizes all the time, you just need to understand how weight and center of gravity will be affected.
quorneng
Master member
kawkawk123
Be aware that increasing battery capacity follows the law of diminishing returns. Bigger heavier battery needs more power to fly so some of the extra capacity is used just to keep flying. A double capacity battery does not mean twice the duration.
At some point the battery weight is so much that the plane either structurally fails or become very difficult to control. An 'optimised' battery is considered to give the best compromise between handling and duration but ultimately it is a personal choice that suits you.
Be aware that increasing battery capacity follows the law of diminishing returns. Bigger heavier battery needs more power to fly so some of the extra capacity is used just to keep flying. A double capacity battery does not mean twice the duration.
At some point the battery weight is so much that the plane either structurally fails or become very difficult to control. An 'optimised' battery is considered to give the best compromise between handling and duration but ultimately it is a personal choice that suits you.
TheFlyingBrit
Legendary member
I changed the incidence angle of the wing and saw some improvement, but its still not as easy to fly as the Scout which is far more forgiving.
You gotta love the Cub shape its iconic, but it isn't as easy to fly as some of the other FT models. I found the Bushwacker far better, just add a little dihedral and dial back the throws mine was a pussy cat.
TheFlyingBrit
Legendary member
I found the 3s 1300 mAh gave the best performance, anything less gives you less power. So your constantly running at a higher throttle setting. to maintain a level flight. The 1300 mAh tends to give me a steady level flight at half throttle, so I have a bit in reserve for those windy days.
Anything bigger than a 1300 mAh will give diminishing returns, you gain more power, but more weight to carry around too.
Anything bigger than a 1300 mAh will give diminishing returns, you gain more power, but more weight to carry around too.
i learned this when putting a 550 in my umx turbo timber. it only gives about 40% more flight time over the recommended 280.
Byrdman
Well-known member
the second. Technically I think you can go down to 3.2V per cell, but it is definitely not recommended for the batt health. I usually have around that 11.4 and my balance charger says I am at 40% when I put it on charge
Hi everyone I have a problem with my tricopter at can’t get it to take of its flips violently every time I try to flight, I sow slot of video on YouTube I sheqrchzd on goggle but no luck
Kk2.1.5 turnigy plush sunysky motors 1240kv
I tryed changing the board and motors and still the same problem anyone can help please? Thank you
Kk2.1.5 turnigy plush sunysky motors 1240kv
I tryed changing the board and motors and still the same problem anyone can help please? Thank you
TheFlyingBrit
Legendary member
I built a mini cub took me ages to get the right motor battery setup, had loads of crashes until I got the right combo. Still not an easy plane to get in the air and land, but once its up there its fun. The full size version was better, once I got the teething problems sorted I could at least take off land it.
I use a heavier form of foamboard as I build them all from scratch, so I always have to make adjustments to get the FT models to fly how they should. That's except for: The FT Flyer and Tiny trainers, they fly straight away no problem.
Byrdman
Well-known member
You should start your own thread, but IME when any multirotor flops, you dont have the right rotation on one or more motors. The board is trying to control the motor speed for stability and if one or more motors are spinning in the wrong direction it will over correct in the wrong direction.
TheFlyingBrit
Legendary member
Mind you I did for get to mention. I replaced the original motor in the Cub with a Sunnysky x2216 1250kv and a 9x5 prop. The original Emax CF2822 1200kv I used, didn't have enough punch. Its a great combination now and once in the air it cruises around great and still has plenty in reserve for loops and stiff headwinds.
Hey thank you for replaying. Actually I did start a thread but no one answered me yet.. I checked the rotation many Times still no luck
