Simple Cub with Power Pack C and...what batteries
- Thread starter Douglas
- Start date
I've flown the cub with a c pack many times and it works great! I'd recommend a tattu 1800 3s lipo - they are top-notch packs!
mrjdstewart
Legendary member
i usually use a tattu 1300 3S when using the old C-pack on the cub. swing a 10x4.5 with 30A esc. if you go to a 8" prop you can get by with a 20A.
i would make sure to build it as a 4 channel, the p-factor with the c-pack and 10" prop is significant and 3 channel planes have a tough time.
good luck,
me
i would make sure to build it as a 4 channel, the p-factor with the c-pack and 10" prop is significant and 3 channel planes have a tough time.
good luck,
me
"Better" is a relative term. The Simple Scout is more acrobatic, more precise...While it's easy to build and fly, it can be a handful. The Cub's "high wing" status makes it an easier gliding plane, and it'll cruise a lot better than the Simple Scout. If you're going for a first plane, I'd recommend the Cub over the Scout. That's my opinion, and my experience, though - someone here will no doubt recommend the Scout based on their flying skills. I try to think of it in the levels of "What's a good plane to start with, progress with, and still enjoy even after I've advanced?"
Sero
Elite member
I run my cub on the old C-pack with 1300 4s. Works great.
I agree with @mrjdstewart , go 4 channel, but I do find the plane fly's better with coordinated turns, but is not necessary.
I haven't flown the scout, so I have no input there.
I agree with @mrjdstewart , go 4 channel, but I do find the plane fly's better with coordinated turns, but is not necessary.
I haven't flown the scout, so I have no input there.
mrjdstewart
Legendary member
if you do choose the cub make sure to support your linkage wire going to the tail. if not you will have great rudder and elevator in the pull direction and crap in the other due to wire flex. either that or use some much thicker wire.
good luck,
me
good luck,
me
if you do choose the cub make sure to support your linkage wire going to the tail. if not you will have great rudder and elevator in the pull direction and crap in the other due to wire flex. either that or use some much thicker wire.
good luck,
me
agreed. I used some antenna tubing (like what some RC cars use for the "whip" style antennas) and ran mine through that, and glued it in place on the fuselage, as a guide; worked great at keeping it from flexing. I had to do the same thing on the Simple Soarer, and it made a HUGE difference in control.
I am one of them who would agree with that review. I think the scout handles much better on the ground. Its a joy to do touch and go"s with the scout. I got tired of fighting the Cub to get it in the air so it got cut apart to get the reusable parts out. I run the old B pack and the scout could use a little more power. I run 3S 2200s and made the scout to top load the batteries.
Both are amazing planes - both really easy to fly.
Spitfire76
Elite member
I'm currently building the Cub with a GT2215/09 motor (old C pack) installed and it will be the 4 channel version. I am also concerned about the long control linkages and that there is not support for the servos, just glue. For this reason I am considering placing the servos on the outside towards the back of the fuselage like some other models. I know this will add some tail weight but maybe if I use a 2200 mAh battery it will work. Anyone else done this ?
BATTLEAXE
Legendary member
The Simple Scout is out of the box ready to fly. The Cub does take some mods just to get it to fly docile and can be frustrating. Especially for a new flyer who is trying to work on skills. It gets confusing trying to diagnose skill issues when the plane is throwing you technical problems. My 2 cents
Sero
Elite member
I would avoid putting the servos in the tail, my experience is that those are the planes that are hard to get the CG right.
Ive had the servo get loose but still glued to the paper, the paper will pull off the foam. I remove some paper off the foam where the servo mounts before glueing it on, this way it's glued to the foam. Another thing you can do is cut a piece of scrap foam of the right size and glue it between the servos to help secure them even more
I had no issues with lack of control authority in the stock positions. However, having them farther back shouldn't be an issue as long as you can maintain proper CG.
Douglas
Member
Another question. I watched the build video, but I didn't hear anything about what receiver to purchase or where it mounts. Can you answer those questions?
Receivers depend on what transmitter you have - you need one compatible with your transmitter. For example, if you have a Spektrum, you'll want a receiver like the AR410, OrangeRX 615x, or Lemon RX DSMP receiver. If it's a FrSky, there's numerous other receivers you can use.
Mounting is pretty generic - it doesn't need to go in a specific location in the plane, necessarily - just somewhere that the servo wires can reach it. They're all fairly light, and really don't affect CG in a plane the size of the Cub.
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