• This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn more.

simple storch questions.

#21
Do you have videos on youtube? I think I may have watched them. My plane has a 2215/10 motor and am running a 10x4.5 prop, I tried the 10x7 but it ran the amps up and the motor got warm. I'm not sure what this motor can handle amp wise.

My sons motor is a B4023 that came off of his old trainstar and originally used a 12x6 prop with a 30 amp speed control. i may have him put the 12x6 on and try it that way to see if theres an improvement over the 10x7 he has now.
The 4s battery wont produce more torque will it?
Pick up a wattmeter, that will tell you how much watts and amps she's using. You can get em for about $15-$20. Warm is ok for a motor, hot is what you want to avoid. Oh, and yeah I've got some videos of my experience with the Storch...youtube channel is in my signature. I think a good portion of motors can all be the same they just have different manufacturer labels. So I'd compare what specs you know about your motor (KV rating, weight, dimensions, etc) and compare with ones out there that look the same. I'd say you'll eventually find it.
 
#22
Here's what I believe is your motor specs, yours is just an E-Max it looks like:

Model: GT 2215/10
RPM/V: 1100KV
No. of Lipo Cells : 2-3S
Max Watt : 312W
Max Current : 28A
Weight : 70g
Stator Dimensions : 22 x 15 mm
Shaft diameter : 4 mm
Shaft Length : 15.5 mm
Max thrust : 1250g
Recommended model weight : 600 - 1100g
Recommended ESC: MT30A V1
Recommended Propeller : APC 10x4.7SF, 10x7E @3S LiPo


And I'm thinking this may be the specs on your son's motor:

Rpm/V: 850kv
Max Watts: 380W
Max Amps: 35A
Max Volt: 7.4~14.8v (2~4S)
Idle Current: 1.5A
Resistance: 0.039 ohms
Weight: 107.1g
Shaft: 4mm x 39mm threaded
Can Size: 41mm
Mount Diameter: 30mm
Prop test.
12x6 11.1v 27A 1600g
 

Merv

Legendary member
#23
those are pretty cheap, are they worth buying?
I had a buddy who tried one China Hobby battery, he had a bad experience. His went dead in about 2 months. I've never tried them myself. Anyone can have one bad pack, I'd like to hear from others.
 
Last edited:

jaredstrees

Well-known member
#24
I've got a bunch of China Hobby Line batteries, about all I'll buy now. I have not had a bad one yet, from 1000mah 3s to 2200 4s. I love the higher c ratings for charging as well.
 
#25
Pick up a wattmeter, that will tell you how much watts and amps she's using. You can get em for about $15-$20. Warm is ok for a motor, hot is what you want to avoid. Oh, and yeah I've got some videos of my experience with the Storch...youtube channel is in my signature. I think a good portion of motors can all be the same they just have different manufacturer labels. So I'd compare what specs you know about your motor (KV rating, weight, dimensions, etc) and compare with ones out there that look the same. I'd say you'll eventually find it.

I do have a watt meter, the motor wasnt hot but it was warm. I did find your videos really informative to watch.
 
#26
Here's what I believe is your motor specs, yours is just an E-Max it looks like:

Model: GT 2215/10
RPM/V: 1100KV
No. of Lipo Cells : 2-3S
Max Watt : 312W
Max Current : 28A
Weight : 70g
Stator Dimensions : 22 x 15 mm
Shaft diameter : 4 mm
Shaft Length : 15.5 mm
Max thrust : 1250g
Recommended model weight : 600 - 1100g
Recommended ESC: MT30A V1
Recommended Propeller : APC 10x4.7SF, 10x7E @3S LiPo


And I'm thinking this may be the specs on your son's motor:

Rpm/V: 850kv
Max Watts: 380W
Max Amps: 35A
Max Volt: 7.4~14.8v (2~4S)
Idle Current: 1.5A
Resistance: 0.039 ohms
Weight: 107.1g
Shaft: 4mm x 39mm threaded
Can Size: 41mm
Mount Diameter: 30mm
Prop test.
12x6 11.1v 27A 1600g

Thanks for finding the specs, I spent quite a while looking and didnt find any on my sons motor. I do have a watt meter so i got a few readings.
My motor with a 10x4.7 was 17 amps and a 10x7 was 21 amps so I could technically put a little more pitch on mine. I wasnt sure what the amp limit was on mine. I was thinking about trying a 10x5e on mine

My sons motor ran 17 or 18 amps with a 10x7 it originally used a 12x6 on the trainstar it came on. with the 10x7 he gets more than enough thrust so i dont think he needs anything bigger.
 
#27
I looked on the china website and only found 1 2200 battery with an xt60 plug, reasonably priced but a turnigy was 5 bucks more, I guess I would have to go with who ships faster, I dont like waiting weeks for parts. There are no hobby shops around my neck of the woods.
 

Brett_N

Well-known member
#28
Mike

Hobbyking has a battery sale now, and because they are LiPO's they ship in 3 days. (USPS doesn't want them on their trucks too long!)

ValueHobby also has screaming deals on batteries and motors.
 

jaredstrees

Well-known member
#29
I looked on the china website and only found 1 2200 battery with an xt60 plug, reasonably priced but a turnigy was 5 bucks more, I guess I would have to go with who ships faster, I dont like waiting weeks for parts. There are no hobby shops around my neck of the woods.
Do you know how to solder? Xt60 connections are cheap and easy to solder. I never look at the connections when battery shopping. Gives you a lot more choices. Always happy to get batteries with XT60 already installed, but easy enough to change if not.

And if you're going to be building planes, you're probably going to have to learn to solder anyway if you don't know yet.
 

kilroy07

Legendary member
#30
When changing out the connectors on batteries, just remember to snip/replace ONE lead at a time...
Far too easy to get a nasty short if you snip both leads from the battery! (positive and negative)

Oh, and plug a spare mating connector into the one you are soldering so that the pins don't move if you get the connector too hot and the plastic softens.

I like to tin the lead, then tin the connector so then you can just touch the iron to the outside of the plug and touch the wire into the socket, remove the iron and it's set.

One more thing... DON'T forget to slip on shrink-wrap BEFORE you solder. ;)
 

jaredstrees

Well-known member
#31
When changing out the connectors on batteries, just remember to snip/replace ONE lead at a time...
Far too easy to get a nasty short if you snip both leads from the battery! (positive and negative)

Oh, and plug a spare mating connector into the one you are soldering so that the pins don't move if you get the connector too hot and the plastic softens.

I like to tin the lead, then tin the connector so then you can just touch the iron to the outside of the plug and touch the wire into the socket, remove the iron and it's set.

One more thing... DON'T forget to slip on shrink-wrap BEFORE you solder. ;)
What Kilroy said. I have forgotten the shrink tube more times than I'd like! Don't let soldering scare you. We're not working on CPUs here. This type of soldering is relatively easy. Open your battery buying world!
 
#32
I just soldered the connectors on a battery and ESC for the first time. It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be. And yup, I forgot the heat shrink on my third wire and had to melt it free and reattach lol.
 

PoorManRC

Master member
#34
I had a buddy who tried one China Hobby battery, he had a bad experience. His went dead in about 2 months. I've never tried them myself. Anyone can have one bad pack, I'd like to hear from others.
Lipo Batteries are so widely produced now, that getting a Dud every now and then, is almost normal....

In the bargain Battery department, I've had great luck with Fleureon. Mostly sold out of Staten Island, NY, I HAD quite a few over the past few years. Never got a bad one. That's not saying that you definitely wouldn't get a bad one, I've just had good, consistent performance.

Though as some of you know, I came from RC Ground.... Crawlers mainly. The Batteries I got, probably wouldn't FIT in one of these Planes, much less get off the ground with one!!! :ROFLMAO::LOL:
One I have, is a 8000 mAh 3S!!
I have 3 small Batteries, that should work. One, I'm hoping to work in my Storch. It's a 3500 mAh 2S, but a fairly small package.

Back to the point - these Batteries were put to WORK. They frequently pulled 12-16lb Rigs almost VERTICAL! I've never puffed a Battery (I also balance charge and store carefully). They've lasted an average of 2 Years, under HIGH Amp Loads.

Here's an example of one, that might be small enough for these Planes...
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/332604894015

Hopefully, I can get a couple, next Year...
I definitely recommend them though! ;)
 
#36
Do you know how to solder? Xt60 connections are cheap and easy to solder. I never look at the connections when battery shopping. Gives you a lot more choices. Always happy to get batteries with XT60 already installed, but easy enough to change if not.

And if you're going to be building planes, you're probably going to have to learn to solder anyway if you don't know yet.

I can solder, I just have not attemped to solder battery wire. I've done a few bullet connectors and xt60 on speed controls.
 
#37
I got a new 10x5 prop for my plane. I set up a rudder/aileron mix as well as a flap/elevator mix. Took her out today and there was just a little breeze and she flew around nice and neat. My first successful flight and landing. The battery lasted about 10 min or so. My only disappointment was not having a couple more batteries. My son's plane did well after we angled the motor to the right, with his 5000 ma battery he was up for about 20 min before his tx battery beeper went off. I'd say he had another 5 min of flight left on his pack. I added a rudder/aileron mix to his so we will see how his does tomorrow, I'm thinking it will fly a little better. Thanks for all the advice.
 

kilroy07

Legendary member
#38
I set up a rudder/aileron mix as well as a flap/elevator mix.
Well, I "maidened" mine yesterday... I put quotes because while she was "in the air" I'm not really sure she "flew"! :LOL:
Some minor damage all around, but I'll try again this afternoon.

What I wanted to know is more info on your mixes... I have mine set up as a 4 channel as well and have 3 mixes open (FlySky i6X) and might try adding some rudder input. I did offset the aileron horns. And I do have her set up for flaps as well.

Also, did you have trouble with ground tracking?.... I had a LOT of trouble on the ground (might have been just the rough ground) but it also really acted like a WHOLE lot of P factor thrown in... Anyone else notice this on the storch?
 
#39
Well, I "maidened" mine yesterday... I put quotes because while she was "in the air" I'm not really sure she "flew"! :LOL:
Some minor damage all around, but I'll try again this afternoon.

What I wanted to know is more info on your mixes... I have mine set up as a 4 channel as well and have 3 mixes open (FlySky i6X) and might try adding some rudder input. I did offset the aileron horns. And I do have her set up for flaps as well.

Also, did you have trouble with ground tracking?.... I had a LOT of trouble on the ground (might have been just the rough ground) but it also really acted like a WHOLE lot of P factor thrown in... Anyone else notice this on the storch?

We have the turnigy 9x tx, ours are set up with flaps and ailerons. for my mixes i added 25% rudder to the ailerons and it turns pretty flat in the air. For the flaps and elevator i set it up to have 20% down elevator with flaps down. As far as ground effect goes, after chopping up the 2 props that came with mine I just hand launch it and dead stick land it.
 

buzzbomb

I know nothing!
#40
We have the turnigy 9x tx, ours are set up with flaps and ailerons. for my mixes i added 25% rudder to the ailerons and it turns pretty flat in the air. For the flaps and elevator i set it up to have 20% down elevator with flaps down. As far as ground effect goes, after chopping up the 2 props that came with mine I just hand launch it and dead stick land it.
mike75, I don't want to hijack this thread, but I have spent in inordinate amount of frustrating time, trying to set up the 9x. It's not the trans, the trans seems fine. It is my total lack of knowledge and experience. If you could pop over to

https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?threads/transmitter-set-up.56654/page-3

and help me out? Man, I would be greatly appreciative.