Snarls 250 Summer Quad - Performance ZMR Build
that is what i probably should of did.. so i could of tried different brands/pitch s.. but i did not think to much of it so i just blew my prop cash on 6x3. hopefully i'll get lucky and i wont break all the props on my first day trying to fly my project.
chris.
Alright, bringing this thread back one more time before the real build starts in a couple weeks. I have ordered most of the parts (still need to get a BuddyRC order in) and am waiting for HK to restock their OrangeRX module. I did some research and found lots of people have modded the antenna from its unfortunate position (seriously who decided to put the antenna there?) I was excited to see all these successful mods but then quickly shut down when I found out HK changed the design to a connector directly soldered to the PCB (making the design even worse). Now I'm just thinking about the best way to relocate the antenna because I am a fan of sleek designs and don't want a vulnerable antenna sticking out the back.
So part of me hopes HK will restock with a redesigned module (unlikely) and part of me thinks I can unsolder the 5 pins from the connector from the board and add some extension wires to it. Question is will that reduce my range or even be possible? Also how hard is it to unsolder something like that with very little PCB soldering experience? I may just ask my electronic wizard friend to help me out on that and removing the original 9X module. Thanks guys!
Picture for reference (not mine):
So part of me hopes HK will restock with a redesigned module (unlikely) and part of me thinks I can unsolder the 5 pins from the connector from the board and add some extension wires to it. Question is will that reduce my range or even be possible? Also how hard is it to unsolder something like that with very little PCB soldering experience? I may just ask my electronic wizard friend to help me out on that and removing the original 9X module. Thanks guys!
Picture for reference (not mine):
Alright I just noticed that the OrangeRX module is now listed as backordered, crossed out and grayed out. Some people in the comments are suggesting that the product is discontinued and that they are going to release a new version. So perhaps my desire for a better designed module could be true. I just hope I don't have to wait months for it.
I'm going to ask HK support later when they're online and update this post.
Edit: I forgot to update this post... but unsurprisingly HK can not provide any information beyond "backordered items usually take up to 30 days to be restocked." Note it has been more than 30 days.
I'm going to ask HK support later when they're online and update this post.
Edit: I forgot to update this post... but unsurprisingly HK can not provide any information beyond "backordered items usually take up to 30 days to be restocked." Note it has been more than 30 days.
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Alright it is finally time to get this build going. All the parts have come in excluding the Orange module. As always the parts are smaller in real life than I imagined from seeing them in pictures.
The ZMR frame is carbon composite and right out of the bag it is clean of dust and cut fairly clean. I have read recommendations to sand the edges of the frame, but the edges do not seem that sharp to me. With the length of the arms it is looking like I will have to remove the ESC wires and solder the motor wires directly to the esc. Has anyone done this with the RG ESC? The sat receiver came with a case so it should be pretty protected as is. I took a look at both the Gemfan 6030s and HQ 6045s and there is a major difference in blade width and flexibility which is no surprise based on people's experience with the two. I also notices that there is no hole on the top of the frame for the 90 degree pigtail to mount. Looks like I'll have to either drill one or rig something up. I'll also debate whether or note to install pins on the Naze.
Inspired by a picture in Make Magazine I laid out all the parts and took this cool exploded view of a mini quad. Summer's here and it's time to fly!
The ZMR frame is carbon composite and right out of the bag it is clean of dust and cut fairly clean. I have read recommendations to sand the edges of the frame, but the edges do not seem that sharp to me. With the length of the arms it is looking like I will have to remove the ESC wires and solder the motor wires directly to the esc. Has anyone done this with the RG ESC? The sat receiver came with a case so it should be pretty protected as is. I took a look at both the Gemfan 6030s and HQ 6045s and there is a major difference in blade width and flexibility which is no surprise based on people's experience with the two. I also notices that there is no hole on the top of the frame for the 90 degree pigtail to mount. Looks like I'll have to either drill one or rig something up. I'll also debate whether or note to install pins on the Naze.
Inspired by a picture in Make Magazine I laid out all the parts and took this cool exploded view of a mini quad. Summer's here and it's time to fly!
cool picture. im not sure what hole you speak of. you could buy the ZMR 12mm riser kit.. like i did and then you could mount the ESC in between the two carbon plates.. i wish i would of know of all the 3d printed stuff you could get for the ZMR frame.. my next build ill be doing just that. what i ended up doing is just zip tying them to the arm..
also, i ordered some 6x4 indestructible props i look forward to test them.. heh,
i wonder what HK is doing with the Orange module.
good luck on your build. also i recommend some different legs.. them carbon triangles are junk.. i bought some hovership legs for 10.00 which ill be using on my next two builds.
chris.
also, i ordered some 6x4 indestructible props i look forward to test them.. heh,
i wonder what HK is doing with the Orange module.
good luck on your build. also i recommend some different legs.. them carbon triangles are junk.. i bought some hovership legs for 10.00 which ill be using on my next two builds.
chris.
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Thanks jipp. I do think mounting the ESCs under the frame would give me a cleaner build, but I think I'll leave them on the arms now where the prop wash can help cool them. As for the triangle legs, I was not planning on using them. I will probably try to get away with no legs if I can.
i hear ya on prop wash to help cool them. my next build has a riser kit with holes design into the 3d printed riser kit to guide air into help cool them. not that i think its need but heck may as well if you are gonna have a riser kit that covers the whole carbon plate. the ZMR is open so just air running through would be enough.
and you will be able to use the quad with out any legs, thats how iv been using mine. i bought some hovership landing gear for 10.00 but the issue is, it would take a bit of work to get them to fit the 1806 motors which if i would of had them when i originally built the quad it would of been no big deal but to get them to fit right now it just more work than its worth..
these hovership land gear are really for 22 size motors.. but will work with 1806s if you had the motors and zmr arm, and the legs so you cold fit them up, with a bit of file work and maybe drill. but i would have to tear it all apart unsolder etc to make them work not worth it.. ill just keep using it with out any landing gear for now.. until i find a better method.. or i have to replace some parts and have to tear the quad apart anyhow.
god luck on your build
chris.
narcolepticltd
I unbuild stuff regularly
This is another option and is really easy to do (you'll just have to source a dx4e or dx5e to harvest it's transmitter module):
http://johnprikkel.blogspot.dk/2014/07/jr-dsmx.html
If you're interested in going that route, PM me and I can send you the PCB and components (you'll have to pick up the JR module case and source the transmitter).
That hack gives you DSMX native to openTX instead of PPM through the module... means you can bind directly from the TX instead of the button on the module, and it actually has a proper antenna that allows the radio to lay flat. Also works with model lock, so you don't have to worry about picking the wrong model and crashing.
Spastickitten
Senior Member
I have an orx module so I might take pictures for better understanding of what is happening. I hope they are doing are design change because I lost my antenna in tall grass... >,<
Thanks for the info narcoleptic I did no know that option was available. For some reason I did not see your post until now. Last night I ran out of patience for HK and bought the DIY module. I figure I'll just remove the original module and antenna and install the DIY module inside. I'll probably add a switch to turn off the DIY module if I want to use an external module, but it is not a big loss to not use the original protocol anymore. I only have two 9X receivers, and one had the antenna chopped off and although it works, really shouldn't be used. If all this does not work then I'll let you know and try your method.
I've been having doubts about the quality of my soldering skill/equipment so to test it out I spent some time doing the 9X OpenTX and backlight mod. The backlight was super easy to install once I got it lined up right. To get OpenTX flashed I decided not to go the SmartiePants route and instead to make a harness and solder directly to the board. To make the harness I simply used 6 jumper wires and 2 rows of 3 pin headers. Tacking the end of the wires to the appropriate spots on the PCB was perhaps the most precise soldering jobs I have ever done, but it all worked out. I used the USBASP programmer to flash the latest version of OpenTX. Best part is that the TX does not beep with every button press like it used to, making my dog very happy. Oh, and guess what...
Yeah, although I never got to the point with the original firmware where I could not set up what I wanted. Within just a few minutes setting up a model in OpenTX I found it to be much more intuitive with how the buttons function and what most things represent. It's just much easier to navigate through and change settings. You can even set things up on the computer with companionTX and upload it, although I left the wiring harness inaccessible inside the TX.
Quick question for anyone who can answer. I've soldered my motor wires directly to my ESC and now I want to test it before I do the other 3. The ESC has no BEC, just a signal wire so how should I calibrate the ESC if it can not power my receiver? Does the battery that powers the receiver have to be the same battery that powers the ESC?
No they do not, but the Ground must be shared (as long as your ESC signal cable has both signal and ground wires, you're good to go).
If you've got an ESC with a UBEC, plug that guy into another battery and plug it into an unused RX port, then plug the ESC you want to calibrate into the throttle port . . . and run through the process (TX on first, throttle to max, plug in ESC to calibrate, beep-beep, throttle to min).
If it doesn't have a ground in the cable, connect the lowest of the two balance connector pins together and they should be grounded together now. (don't mis-match the pins between the batteries -- probably won't break anything, but it almost certainly won't work)
Don't forget to unplug the other ESC
If you've got an ESC with a UBEC, plug that guy into another battery and plug it into an unused RX port, then plug the ESC you want to calibrate into the throttle port . . . and run through the process (TX on first, throttle to max, plug in ESC to calibrate, beep-beep, throttle to min).
If it doesn't have a ground in the cable, connect the lowest of the two balance connector pins together and they should be grounded together now. (don't mis-match the pins between the batteries -- probably won't break anything, but it almost certainly won't work)
Don't forget to unplug the other ESC
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Not the Magic Smoke!
Thanks Dan, I went ahead and tried what you suggested and accidentally let the magic smoke out Absolutely not your fault, I realized I hooked the battery up with reversed polarity, something I told myself multiple times to watch out for. Anyway I plugged the battery in and some white smoke started coming out of the ESC, and then as I rushed to unplug the battery I saw some smoke coming from it too. ESC is trash, but I checked battery after letting it sit for a few minutes and it is 11.9v and all cells are 3.98v which is where it should be. Not sure what from the battery smoked, but is seems useable. I'll let it sit for a few days to make sure. I attached some temporary bullets to the motor and it seems fine as well. Time to order a new ESC. Good thing RotorGeeks ships fast!
Before your method I hooked up the only ESC with BEC out of the four and it worked, although the motor did seem to lose sync with the ESC after half throttle. Not sure if that's because the motor has no prop load on it, or I might have accidentally changed something in programming trying to calibrate it.
Thanks Dan, I went ahead and tried what you suggested and accidentally let the magic smoke out
Absolutely not your fault, I realized I hooked the battery up with reversed polarity, something I told myself multiple times to watch out for. Anyway I plugged the battery in and some white smoke started coming out of the ESC, and then as I rushed to unplug the battery I saw some smoke coming from it too. ESC is trash, but I checked battery after letting it sit for a few minutes and it is 11.9v and all cells are 3.98v which is where it should be. Not sure what from the battery smoked, but is seems useable. I'll let it sit for a few days to make sure. I attached some temporary bullets to the motor and it seems fine as well. Time to order a new ESC. Good thing RotorGeeks ships fast!Before your method I hooked up the only ESC with BEC out of the four and it worked, although the motor did seem to lose sync with the ESC after half throttle. Not sure if that's because the motor has no prop load on it, or I might have accidentally changed something in programming trying to calibrate it.
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A couple photos to update you guys on the build. I Received a new ESC from Rotorgeeks in a very timely manner and finished soldering all the motors directly to the ESCs. The pads on the ESC are all different distances from the motor so the wires have to be cut accordingly.
After finishing up the ESCs I worked on the power harness. I am not using a PDB so I am just soldering all the wires together using a technique similar to that in the Thick Gauge Wire Soldering Tip episode. I used 12AWG wire for the main battery connection and it is just slightly thicker than the distance between the bottom plates of the ZMR. I'll either add a thin rubber pad on the arms to increase this distance or try to squash down to size.
So far the dimensions of the ZMR aren't too great. I had to do some small drilling to get two of the arms to fit because the holes were drilled slightly off. I've also notices that the holes in the arm for the motor mount screws are slightly too small for the screws that come with the Cobras.
Motor wires cut to size and ESC wires removed:
Soldered together and ready to be heat shrinked again:
All four together:
Soldering five wires together with the wire wrapping technique:
Power harness finished and ready to be mounted:
After finishing up the ESCs I worked on the power harness. I am not using a PDB so I am just soldering all the wires together using a technique similar to that in the Thick Gauge Wire Soldering Tip episode. I used 12AWG wire for the main battery connection and it is just slightly thicker than the distance between the bottom plates of the ZMR. I'll either add a thin rubber pad on the arms to increase this distance or try to squash down to size.
So far the dimensions of the ZMR aren't too great. I had to do some small drilling to get two of the arms to fit because the holes were drilled slightly off. I've also notices that the holes in the arm for the motor mount screws are slightly too small for the screws that come with the Cobras.
Motor wires cut to size and ESC wires removed:
Soldered together and ready to be heat shrinked again:
All four together:
Soldering five wires together with the wire wrapping technique:
Power harness finished and ready to be mounted:
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