So I'll start off with what took me about an hour to figure out. There are in fact TWO errors, so far, in the wing assembly. The Aileron root ply is mislabeled as A16, wich is the main ply spar. This should be A10. It was easy to spot given the shape from the diagram. The hard one was that the wing rib next to the tip rib was mis labeled as E1 when it should be E2. I figured this one out by looking at the parts sheet and found that there were SIX E2 ribs and only two E1 ribs. This was after desperately trying to figure out how A10 fit into the space with E1 in the middle. There are a couple of procedural lessons learned by this first panel so I'll go over those as well as other small issues. In advance, I'll tell you that these first two steps should be done TOGETHER. Do
not glue the ribs to the spar and 6mm balsa in the first step until you have completed inserts from the second step.
Here you can see the SLIGHT difference at the trailing edge of E1 on the bottom and E2 on the top. A headache but I figured it out for you.
My further confusion came from the parts not being labeled correctly on the sheet as well as the parts sheet in the instructions. I only figured it out by comparing the physical shape.
The formers at the tip of the wing go on quite well but the tabs on these two formers were not positioned correctly. I had to cut away a small portion for them to center correctly on the tip rib. Not a big deal but it is something to be aware of.
So, referring back to the first image, F2/C29 lamination is the root of the wing. This should not be glued in place until you have laminated C25 and inserted it into C31, and inserted C5 and F3. You will also want to dry fit the shear web that is placed between the C25s and the spar. THEN fit the F2/C29 and apply glue. F3 and the C25s will be load bearing for the landing gear so the epoxy is a must. I'm using 10-minute but 30-minute is an option as well. 5-minute may be too brittle when fully cured.
C17 is a pain to install if you glue the ribs to the spar first so I recommend dry fitting it between the two E2 ribs and slotting the ribs into the spar in one motion. Then apply glue.
Ok, this one will be long... There were NO 3mm balsa stringers supplied and as we all know here in the states... the imperial measurement system is the only way and it is horrible. I made do with some 1/8" balsa sheet and cut my own stringers. Its a bit tight of a fit but it did the job just fine. The two E14 pieces tab into holes in the A10 piece but DO NOT glue them in. The aileron will be cut away from this area and we want build it this way to make sure it is straight with the wing. So you insert them and keep the trailing edge flat on the build surface. I used sandwich bags filled with sand. I then, very carefully, glued D2 to the E14 pieces and then to the trailing edge of the E2 ribs using thin CA. If you feel like you are going to apply too much glue you can place a piece of aluminum foil between E14 and the ribs.
After all this I would THEN recommend you do your final glue joints on all the ribs where they meet the spar and 6mm balsa. Then apply A15 and lastly, D1. Do not forget your last shear web (C21). I also want to note that A8 does not fit into C17. It sits on top of it. I'm assuming this is a temporary hatch for the aileron servo and should be SCREWED into place given the cutout profile of C17 but I'll assemble the wing more to figure that out.
You can see where the drawbacks come of these assembly diagrams. While I've done some Google-Fu and found another build of this model. it seems that between a year ago to now, there have been a few improvements to the instructions and cuts for this model. Its promising that Hobbyking is continually improving. Some real TEXT instructions do convey what you cannot really do in images.
For a brief update I suggest the following video.
