'SPIT' roasted FB

CarolineTyler

Legendary member
:eek::eek::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

I had to rewind and pause that.... TWICE!!
I'm almost speechless... I wonder how many times he's had to replace props due to ground strikes!! :LOL:

His reaction?... Totally appropriate!
The pilot was renown for flying ultra low, the ground drops down towards the back so it makes it look like it's rising out of the ground to attack, jaws style!
 

kilroy07

Legendary member
Airbrush arriving soon. Looking forward to learning how to use it! Camouflage should look good with a slightly soft edge.
Awesome, what brand/model did you go with?

Got a good compressor too I hope (Do NOT mess with the canned air route!)

It'll be easier if you get some airbrush ready paint to start off with (but you can always thin what you've got.)

And here's a lesson I learned the hard way... ALWAYS clean it after shooting paint! ;)
 

CarolineTyler

Legendary member
Awesome, what brand/model did you go with?

Got a good compressor too I hope (Do NOT mess with the canned air route!)

It'll be easier if you get some airbrush ready paint to start off with (but you can always thin what you've got.)

And here's a lesson I learned the hard way... ALWAYS clean it after shooting paint! ;)
Very basic system, but at least the brush is dual action.
Screenshot_20190924-193111.png
 

kilroy07

Legendary member
Very basic system, but at least the brush is dual action.
View attachment 143445
That doesn't look too bad, the compressor might be a let down (it will take quite awhile to do a big project like the Spit with that.)
But, the compressor is something you can always add/upgrade later.
And the airbrush looks to be fine for this type of work (you actually don't want a super fine setup, unless you want it to take a week!)

We have something over here called harbor freight, I bought a cheap one and it works pretty good for airbrushing (I wouldn't hook an air-nailer up to it!) :LOL: They are always having "special" coupon days etc, so I got it for just over $40 U.S.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-3-hp-3-gallon-100-psi-oilless-air-compressor-97080.html

Just remember to shoot the lightest color first (if you can of course, a primer layer can help if you need to do otherwise.)
 

CarolineTyler

Legendary member
That doesn't look too bad, the compressor might be a let down (it will take quite awhile to do a big project like the Spit with that.)
But, the compressor is something you can always add/upgrade later.
And the airbrush looks to be fine for this type of work (you actually don't want a super fine setup, unless you want it to take a week!)

We have something over here called harbor freight, I bought a cheap one and it works pretty good for airbrushing (I wouldn't hook an air-nailer up to it!) :LOL: They are always having "special" coupon days etc, so I got it for just over $40 U.S.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-3-hp-3-gallon-100-psi-oilless-air-compressor-97080.html

Just remember to shoot the lightest color first (if you can of course, a primer layer can help if you need to do otherwise.)
I'm going to practice on some cardboard before starting on the Spit. As you say, an upgraded compressor is an easy update should this one be gutless.
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
I have been looking at airbrush systems lately would make things a lot easier and cheaper in the long run. Rattle cans of Rustoleum are over 8 bucks, you could easily spend over 20 bucks painting a plane in the colors you want
 

kilroy07

Legendary member
I have been looking at airbrush systems lately would make things a lot easier and cheaper in the long run. Rattle cans of Rustoleum are over 8 bucks, you could easily spend over 20 bucks painting a plane in the colors you want
One thing I have noticed/learned is to have patience!! Put the paint on too thick and the paper expands and ripples form. You can see a few on my edge wing... this was after an enamel base coat. 😢
BD4B9B6D-8B56-4462-A824-69ED1B4BBB5A.jpeg
So take your time and the old adage of several light coats being better than one heavy hold very true here (just something I need to work on as well.)
 

mayan

Legendary member
One thing I have noticed/learned is to have patience!! Put the paint on too thick and the paper expands and ripples form. You can see a few on my edge wing... this was after an enamel base coat. 😢
View attachment 143528
So take your time and the old adage of several light coats being better than one heavy hold very true here (just something I need to work on as well.)
Looks amazing! Can’t wait to see the entire thing. I smoke so that’s what I do in between coats :). Why don’t you paint at the field and fly something in between coats, idea for myself for next paint job; that would be better than smoking.
 

CarolineTyler

Legendary member
One thing I have noticed/learned is to have patience!! Put the paint on too thick and the paper expands and ripples form. You can see a few on my edge wing... this was after an enamel base coat. 😢
View attachment 143528
So take your time and the old adage of several light coats being better than one heavy hold very true here (just something I need to work on as well.)
I did the same thing when painting my X-29, got a bit heavy handed on the bottom and rippled the paper a little. I used a hair dryer and managed to reduce the effect thank goodness!
 

mayan

Legendary member
I did the same thing when painting my X-29, got a bit heavy handed on the bottom and rippled the paper a little. I used a hair dryer and managed to reduce the effect thank goodness!
Or try painting in the sun also helps dry faster and if you over coat will minimize damage.
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
One thing I have noticed/learned is to have patience!! Put the paint on too thick and the paper expands and ripples form. You can see a few on my edge wing... this was after an enamel base coat. 😢
View attachment 143528
So take your time and the old adage of several light coats being better than one heavy hold very true here (just something I need to work on as well.)
The flames look awesome but I do see what you mean. I am a big fan of the polyurethane now. A little prep work makes everything so much easier in the finishing process.
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
Ye
So you Build, minwax then paint?.... :unsure:

I've got a couple sparrows to build... I might give that a go.
Yea the oil based Minwax Polyurethane goes on with a sponge brush in a thin even coat, let it soak in for 5 minutes, then wipe off with paper towel. Whats left when it dries and cures is an even waterproof surface that is easy to paint. No wrinkling, no delamination, and you dont need to do 5-6 light coats. Got away with 2 coats on the P-40in each color

Surprized you haven't tried this yet actually. Works awesome. You could poly it and not paint and it still is waterproof for float planes or winter models
 

kilroy07

Legendary member
Ye
Yea the oil based Minwax Polyurethane goes on with a sponge brush in a thin even coat, let it soak in for 5 minutes, then wipe off with paper towel. Whats left when it dries and cures is an even waterproof surface that is easy to paint. No wrinkling, no delamination, and you dont need to do 5-6 light coats. Got away with 2 coats on the P-40in each color

Surprized you haven't tried this yet actually. Works awesome. You could poly it and not paint and it still is waterproof for float planes or winter models
A couple years ago I tried it on my Mustang build (Miss America) I put the minwax on after I skinned it.
IMG_7155.JPG
The minwax yellowed the paper a bit and the skin being heaver stock (and I didn't strip off the original paper first) she was a bit over weight. Still flew okay... but I was just transitioning to 4 channel back then (iow, she didn't last long.)

It was a lot of work for a plane that saw a handful of flights...

I do have several sheets already minwaxed, I planned on seeing how they cut in the laser after curing for awhile (or just burst into flame...) :eek:

Winter is coming and soon I hope to wrap up some existing projects to focus on some sea planes for winter/snow fun! (Which reminds me, the next batch of ESCs need to be waterproofed!...

I am just about to start finishing my Spitfire (that IS what this thread is about isn't it?!) :LOL:
I will try your suggestion and minwax it tonight.

Thanks
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
A couple years ago I tried it on my Mustang build (Miss America) I put the minwax on after I skinned it.
View attachment 143544
The minwax yellowed the paper a bit and the skin being heaver stock (and I didn't strip off the original paper first) she was a bit over weight. Still flew okay... but I was just transitioning to 4 channel back then (iow, she didn't last long.)

It was a lot of work for a plane that saw a handful of flights...

I do have several sheets already minwaxed, I planned on seeing how they cut in the laser after curing for awhile (or just burst into flame...) :eek:

Winter is coming and soon I hope to wrap up some existing projects to focus on some sea planes for winter/snow fun! (Which reminds me, the next batch of ESCs need to be waterproofed!...

I am just about to start finishing my Spitfire (that IS what this thread is about isn't it?!) :LOL:
I will try your suggestion and minwax it tonight.

Thanks
I will say though that hot glue doesnt really stick to minwax very well being its a oil based polyurethane. Other glues might do better.