SPUTNIK KNDNSK PRO 126 mm FPV micro drone

[a0137]

Hi guys, I’m really excited to share with FlightTest community my new SPUTNIK KNDNSK PRO, 126 mm micro drone. Probably it’s world’s thinnest drone ever in this class, 11 mm from top to bottom plate only. It’s well-powered with 1306 motors with RX 3040T propellers. X-PDB is a core thing of KNDNSK PRO. X-PDB gives to me ability to integrate itself all electronics components, for extremely clean and thin inside layout without messy wires. And yes, this thing is sexy!

And now guys, here is a step-by-step building log of KNDNSK PRO. I’m sure, you will be amazed about how easy, fast and clean it will be. Total building time was about 5 hours with 2 coffee breaks.

And here is the list of components I’ve used in this build:

AfroMini 32 rev.3*flight controller
DYS SN20A ESCs
DYS 1306 4000 kV motors
5V 1A Pololu step-down voltage regulator
Micro MinimOSD
600 TVL, 90 degree FOV micro camera
Micro Rx
Micro VTx

Ok. Lets start.

I began my work from removing heat shrink from ESCs and unsoldering all wires.

Now I have four naked ESCs. I’ve sticked four small pieces of 3M double-sided tape on X-PDB with aim to fix ESCs in right position during soldering process. ESCs will be soldered to X-PDB with angled header pins.

ESC’s are nicely sticked and ready for soldering.

I’ve inserted angled header pins in to appropriate holes on X-PDB and solder them to ESCs.

From bottom side of X-PDB I’ve cut header pins as close to X-PDB, as possible with side cutters (this process I will repeat with all pins and wires at bottom side) and….

… and soldered them to X-PDB. Nice!

Job done!

OSD time now!
I’ve flashed and programmed my Micro MinimOSD as usual. I will have no chance to do this after soldering OSD in place. It’s very important.

I’ve slightly decreased height of plastic standoff with a file for better OSD fitting, as shown on picture…

… and soldered a wire for battery voltage monitoring (VBAT).

VBAT wire was inserted in to the OSD DTR hole and OSD was soldered with straight and angled header pins to X-PDB from top and bottom.

Flight controller time!
I’ve covered some contact pads on FC with my trusted favorite black isolation tape.

Header pins was inserted in to the X-PDB holes, called “FC PINS”.

I’ve placed FC on the top of PDB.

Look, how this sandwich is thin! FC, OSD and X-PDB!

FC was soldered to X-PDB. Also, I’ve soldered FTDI header pins for FC programming.

This thing is really nice!

5V 1A Pololu step-down regulator was soldered to X-PDB with pins.

Time for rock’n’roll: buzzer and VTx with antenna.

I’ve inserted two little wires with male 2-pins micro JST connector in to the hole in holder and soldered them to the buzzer legs. Red one to positive leg, black to the ground.

Buzzer was fixed on holder with 5-min epoxy, also I’ve filled with epoxy slot with buzzer legs.

I’ve slightly reinforced VTx antenna with black heat shrink and inserted in in to the holder.

Well, antenna nicely soldered to VTx pads.

Small piece of 3M double-sided tape on the VTx bottom for good fixation during soldering as usual….

… and VTx soldered in place with four single header pins. Single, because this VTx has not standard (2 mm between holes) contact pads.

Nice. Small. Thin. Clean. Coffee break.

 

[a0137]

My camera comes with very shot wires. I have no Idea why…

… so I’ve replaced them with longer ones. Also I’ve covered camera back side with two layers of 5-min epoxy for better protection and strong wires fixing.

Wires from camera was soldered to X-PDB pads. Black to Ground, red to 5V, white to Audio and yellow to Video. Cam job done!

Receiver time! I’ve used this small DSM PPM Rx from Banggood (I have 4 or 5 of them, they works fine for me and I’m happy with it). I’ve shorted ground and pad 1 with small wire to enable 6-channel PPM-output from pad 2 as described in manual and soldered power and signal wires.

And now Rx wires soldered to X-PDB. Yellow to PPM pad, black to Ground, red to 5V.

Next, I’ve soldered black wire from female 2-pins micro JST connector to BUZZ pad on flight controller…

… and red one to X-PDB pad called “5V BUZZ”.

I’ve soldered micro JST battery connector. I’ll replace it with XT 30 in future.

Next step is very important. I’ve carefully used diamond file on solder bulbs at bottom X-PDB side with aim to make them as flat and thin as possible…

… and isolated them with two layers of my black isolation tape.

Usual thing: small piece of 3M double-sided tape on the Rx..

… and Rx nicely fixed on Pololu top. Main job done! Coffee break.

Now is most thrilling part of work: final assembly! I’ve fixed motors at bottom plate with screws.

Now I have: X-PDB with all electronics, bottom plate with motors, plastic parts (side walls and camera holder). Lets put them together.

I’ve used side cutters to remove inside transportation supports and 2 mm handy drill on mounting holes.

Adjustable camera mount system: camera holder, two female/female hex standoffs, two nylon screws.

I’ve inserted standoff in to camera holder as shown at picture and…

… and fixed it with nylon screw at wall side.

Same process from another side and job done!

I’ve inserted X-PDB in to the mounting slots in side walls, put this construction on to the bottom plate and temporary fixed all with M2 screws. Next I’ve checked how smooth motors rotation are. They should be rotated nice and smooth without any tension. Camera was inserted in to the holder with gentle push. Looks messy, heh?

I’ve forget to insert battery strap, so this step was repeated. Now with strap! Nice!

Next I’ve cut and soldered motor wires to ESC’s. Now this thing looks much better.

In addition, I’ve putted epoxy drops in some places for better wires fixation.

Antenna holder was inserted in to the slots in top plate and fixed with nuts a screws.

Top view on to the holder.

And finally, all stuff was fixed with nice black steel M2 screws with self-tightening nuts. Blacks too.

Job done guys, job done!
Oh, yea, final weight of all is 132 gr. without battery.

Please leave your comments here

 

[Revere]

Very, very nice. I kinda want one now. What sort of flight times are you getting with it?

 

[a0137]

about 4-5 min with 850 mAh nanotech

 

[jipp]

clean build. interesting way to go about the build.
thanks for sharing.

after working on a 130 insect i wont be touching that size again. hah.. 180 and above for me.

chris.

 

[Revere]

Just checked out the website, reasonable prices for the kits, nice looking frames, but only micros? Those designs look like they would scale up very nicely to a standard 250 frame size, and at that size you would greatly expand your market.

 

[Darkback2]

Pretty cool out of the box design. I would love to see video of it flying around.

DB

 

[mpbiv]

Sweet, and very out of the box thinking. Just like you other designs, that PDB is like a fine crafted watch.

 

[Habakkukk]

Man that's slick, I haven't done a true micro build yet, may have to now