Hay guys I'm priety new to foam and electrics in general but I'm concerned at how hot the esc and motor are getting in my storch. I'm running a 2200kv outrunner with a 30a esc and a 2200mh 3cell swinging the 10x4 slow fly. I just flew for about 5 min to trim it out and get it ready for a buddy box to teach my kid. I have the throttle set to 50% max on my remote (that's how i run my sig Riser 78 full power on it is way to much and I just forgot to change it) any way after 5 min I landed and the esc had melted the hot glue holding it to the power pod and the motor was to hot to touch for more then a few seconds. Is this normal or an I missing somthing ? Thanks all for the help
Storch hot motor and esc
- Thread starter Jester109
- Start date
Well the esc is dead 10min in to my 11yos first buddy flight lost power and ended up nosing in to the hay field. Minar damage to the landing gear and broke the prop but its fixable. Going to order a 40a esc and a 9in prop to lighten the amp load. On the positive side my boy did good on his first time flying
Hai-Lee
Old and Bold RC PILOT
You did not state the part number of the motor you are using but from experience trying to swing a 10x4 prop at such a high speed will require far more amps than your ESC can provide. As a result you could expect the motor to get extremely hot, (if it does not burn out), and your ESC to melt down.
I use a few 2200kV motors on 3S and I limit the props to 6x5 to prevent overheating and even with such a small prop I must buy and use good quality GRP or CF props because the standard cheap props throw blades at full throttle and cause another type pf damage!
My 10x4.7 props are used on motors that have a kV rating around 1000kV
Have fun!
FDS
Elite member
It’s worth reading a few good write ups on the basics of motors, esc’s and radios before buying anything, we have all rushed off and bought unsuitable ones when we started!
Motors have three figures, first the stator width in MM, then the stator height in MM, KV is a measure of how many turns (revolutions) the Motor makes for each volt applied, so a 3s lipo applied to a 2200kv motor makes 3.8v per cell average= 11.4v. Multiply that by 2200 means your propellor is spinning at 25080 rpm.
If you look at the motor data sheet you can usually see the current load and recommend battery voltage as well as the thrust generated by the recommended props.
Power is usually quoted in Watts, which is probably what you got mixed up with KV.
You could easily re set the throttle curve in that model so it went from 0-30 or 40% instead of 0-100% by using the transmitter programming. That way your motor can’t spin too fast and cook the ESC, plus your throttle will feel more natural. Just drop the setting back down from 50%. It sounds like you could even go 0-25%.
Motors have three figures, first the stator width in MM, then the stator height in MM, KV is a measure of how many turns (revolutions) the Motor makes for each volt applied, so a 3s lipo applied to a 2200kv motor makes 3.8v per cell average= 11.4v. Multiply that by 2200 means your propellor is spinning at 25080 rpm.
If you look at the motor data sheet you can usually see the current load and recommend battery voltage as well as the thrust generated by the recommended props.
Power is usually quoted in Watts, which is probably what you got mixed up with KV.
You could easily re set the throttle curve in that model so it went from 0-30 or 40% instead of 0-100% by using the transmitter programming. That way your motor can’t spin too fast and cook the ESC, plus your throttle will feel more natural. Just drop the setting back down from 50%. It sounds like you could even go 0-25%.
Bricks
Master member
As was said you over propped the motor and ESC doing a little testing using a motor a little bigger then yours but 2200KV 30 amp ESC with a 9X5 prop it pulled 58 amps, a 8X4.5 prop it still pulled 41 amps way over recommendation for the ESC and motor. I am still surprised the ESC stood up to the amperage even thou it was only for a second or so and never cut out. Same motor only 1000kv swings a 10X4.5 at 28 amps.
arizona98tj
Member
The recommended motor for the Storch is in the 1100KV range. Following the suggested electronics will go a long way towards having a good flying session that doesn't end in burned components or worse, someone getting hurt from a plane that is out of control. I've had several Storch builds and usually end up with an 1100 KV motor (of the correct size) spinning a 9x6 prop. Good luck on your next flight.
hreehoorn
New member
Don't want to hijack this thread but running into a similar issue. I didnt think it was appropriate to create a new thread when this is most closley related after searching . Motor I used was originally off a Storch I built, was teaching a buddy to fly and well, bye bye Storch. Recycled electronics into a FT Edge Build. Using an Emaxx GT2215/10 (1100KV) , 30 amp esc, and 3s 2200 all swinging a 10x6 prop. Motor is now so hot that it melted the hot glue holding on the firewall. Landed the plane in one piece luckily. Is the pitch of a 10x6 prop to aggressive for my current set up? Should I up the esc to a 40amp?
Work has kept me away from what I really want to do, fly airplanes, for the best part of 6 months, It's good to be back!
Work has kept me away from what I really want to do, fly airplanes, for the best part of 6 months, It's good to be back!
Bricks
Master member
Not the exact same motor but my 2212-1000kv running a 10X4.5 128 watts pulled 18 amps not a ton of amps but it got really hot quick. Ran a 9.5 112 watts at 12 amps got warm and that was about it both were on 3S 2200 battery. After seeing this that motor is way small for the FT Edge. I put a 3512 950 kv on my Edge and on 4S it flies like I think it should for a 3D plane. 3S flies fine but the extra oomph the 4S gives, just makes me feel better.
